Noz

I'd make your own. Much easier than waiting.

Herbie. Have you tried Googling any of these? Usually much faster than asking. I had a Google and it's usually a quick response, if not it can sometimes be self explanatory in the search findings. Front facing intake manifold. Drive by wire (electronic throttle). Front mount intercooler. A single page does sound like a good idea. I nominate Adam to create and manage this

Considered the mirror too. It does look ace. Finishes off the more modern interior. Nicest seen for long time.

Porsche I believe. 90mm. Was brand new.

My bad.

Already have DBW on mine fella. You'll love the throttle control. I went from crappy aftermarket ones, I just wish I had more ECU inputs so I could utilise cruise control ability. Hey more than welcome mate. I try and give advice if I've some experience on something but of course sometimes it's only an opinion, which I also too try and state I do have an XSpower manifold. Holy crap! I've just seen their website. They've really come a long way in product offering!! They even offer FMIC kits. Man wish they offered those back in the day. Ok so I have the thin wall section manifold. http://xs-power.com/toyota-turbo-manifolds-17.htm You can tell they are thin due to the ability to bend the tubing rather than having to weld it. Heavy wall section tube requires hydraulic benders rather than by hand. The wall section perhaps is also not suited to the aggressive bends. I know when I used to bend heavy gauge tubing, it would visually change on the outer surface, as it deforms and almost stretches (I used to machine manifolds and instrumentation systems for oil & gas industry). Maybe in high temperature applications they crack on the bends. Anyway. The thicker wall section is less likely to crack, I'd go with this one if you can. The thing is they always locate the waste gate outlet under the engine. That's a pain in the bum. I cut mine and rotated it. You could do the same, or email them and ask if they would do it for you during manufacture. It would be better done during the manifolds creation. The fact they only sell divided is a nice touch. If it cracks, you can always weld and fix it remember. I'd always personally use a dremel and a white stone burr to clean any internal passages of weld marks to almost port the manifold best I could. You'll need a 4runner dizzy cap to clear the distributor. I've now removed it and run coils. Syvecs S6. Vvti gives better spool. I've seen countless dyno comparisons and I'm sold on it. Luxluc has the best comparison on here that shows it's true potential. http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?355710-SRD1XXX-VVTi-vs-non-VVTi-comparison Turbo choice is difficult as so many people have views but not many people change their turbo to have experience. I love the sound of my Ocdworks T51r modded 62mm, the 6251R, but I would love to drive a GT30## fitted Supra for sure. They do a 58mm version the 5851R, I can imagine it would be so much more fun. I nearly went for it, it's rated 500whp.

Looks so so cool. Very clean,. Without the fan fitted it looks like you have an industrial heat sink on your alternator lol

S360 is too big if you want fast spool. Spool means torque. I highly think you should not push for too much hard low end power until you change the transmission. The FFIM is nice. I have one. But theres not really a huge amount of benefit until you go above 500hp. It's a super big pain in the balls too. Just be aware of that. The Q45 is a good choice. I know you bought the FFIM. But it isnt really needed. If you open the pathway for air you may end up sacrificing spool by having a larger volume to fill before it reaches the combustion area. Larger volume will inevitably mean lag. I would choose 58mm as a max size if spool is what you want. You can achieve better spool with head mods but I dont think that's your route. You will loose spool ability with lowering compression. For a fast spool hard hitting sub 58mm turbo you could achieve 400hp with a hard small turbo, keeping your compression. I have an #ocdworks turbo with a dual ball bearing setup. For fast spool. I see 1.5bar at 4k. I wouldnt call that fast spoiling. And no tune will resolve that. 62mm turbo. 6251R. I would downsize the turbo. Park the FFIM. And consider changing the gearbox first. A divided manifold sub 58mm turbo could see full boost at 3k with a stock compression setup. Purely my opinion though. I had stock compression and saw 10psi boost on my old T61 at 3.8k rpm. Just my opinion based on my own experiences of course though.

For a straight swap. I think Keron is probably the most popular. Extreme Performance. Many other on here capable. Whifbitz. SRD. Even a local trustworthy garage. With some research on your side.

No buddy. The opposite. I have 600 and didnt do pistons. The expensive part for NAt at 600 is resolving a transmission strong enough! Then the intake isnt man enough. There are plenty of other road blocks for an NA to go for power. Always start with a GTE. I didnt because I had most of the bits anyway. Trust me what a ball ache lol.. Anyone owning an NA wanting 600hp and they currently have no turbo needs to save for a TT6 or a single turbo already done.

I think the GTE cost is labour through most people not having the ability or equipment. With fitting a turbo. 320hp or 400hp has no difference I can see. As it's the installation and setup of the boost. Some would say a fuel pump or injectors is needed. But I ran with stock GE components at 417 without issues. Both are cheap anyway. The parts list and labour would both be the same for 300 or 400hp for the GE. 450 ideally should use injectors and a pump. If you were doing the work yourself I think a GTE swap would be massively beneficial. Probably same cost on parts but no mapping needed and no hassle factor fitting custom parts. I'd love to see a 58mm NAt. Or even smaller. Spool would be amazing. Stock compression. I considered it at one point but worried I woildnt hit my goal.

Lol.. when the irons hot!

Broken or in pieces. Worn or damaged. Synchro's wanted. Thanks

It does make me wonder why no one has made any synchros. I'm tempted to give it a go.

I love the fact they also do dual vvti billet head!

I'm surprised you've stripped it down considering everyone also mentioned on your other thread, spare parts are no longer available commercially or otherwise. I hope you find some in this situation mate. Not sure I'd have the balls to take it apart for a rebuild with no spare bits.

Held for postings

Reserved

So over the past few years, I've given a few refurbs a go. The odd set we could say. As I near the end of this era, I am completing what could be the last JSpec set. I thought I would document it as I go. I'm building in a custom ring for indicating, while also attaching my own fabricated steel rings. I will write the thread, as a guide. So I will include as much information as I can to help someone do their own, in the future. I will complete the painting myself. Typically, I used to pay my paint guy. But for those wanting to complete it on their own, I will explain how I would go about this. I will treat it as a guide. I've learned a lot along the way. How to make things easy and tricks to not break fragile internals. Hopefully, as I will no longer utilise these skills I thought I would get enjoyment from sharing this and perhaps offering someone value in the future. I will be selling the set after completion. Here they are in their current state; Here is what I hope to turn them into;

NA-t is only worth doing if you are auto. Being manual puts you at risk and changing the transmission makes it not really worth it anymore. I am NA-t, R154. I would kill for a vvti engine. If you've got the choice, take that route. 400hp will always whatever anyone says be cheaper with an NA-t. You'll see many challenging discussions on what parts to use, regarding price range and `quality` based on opinion. But I think I'm one of the few who has done both budget tuning and gone all out on premium parts with another rebuild down the line. THAT SAID, you run more risk, have a higher hassle factor and limit yourself to BIGGER costs if you desire 600hp. The vvti with m3 box on offer, would be a better route mate! Old turbos? Worn seals? Still worth the vvti engine in my opinion.

Ive always used Transglobal Express. They quote a bit like confused.com. they get prices (through an online system) for your parcel on its size and weight. You can easily sort insurance if any value. You just print the labels and attach. They use all of the typical shipping companies. I've shipped headlights and a range of other items to more countries than I can mention and they've always been rapid with any insurance payouts when the worst happens (they then claim it back off whoever you've used directly,DPD etc). Much like paypal. You get a range of prices so you can choose and compare. If nothing else it's great to get some prices for a comparison. I used to often post items past working hours of most places. UPS drop off points locally open until 10pm make your life easy but not an issue if you arrange collection. Just dont black wrap the boxes. They moan about conveyor issues. https://www.transglobalexpress.co.uk/

You've done more research than me buddy. I think Titan ones have always had a good reputation. Even if the companies had its ups and downs.

My thoughts are you will likely end up using different people for different tasks. Any of the usual recommended experienced garages could do an overall check and some basic BPU mods. Or more depending on your budget.

What a read. I'm massively enjoyed that! Thank you for sharing. I'm also really glad I went to Whifbitz. Love a decent write up with photos. Hope to do the same one day to the ring!