Noz

I've been in both, auto and manual. Been in Na's, single turbo's. But doesn't matter which you've been in, which you support. Auto is faster. It's just a fact. You only need look at a drag racing events listing to see auto cars are faster. Grannas racing promoting the fastest stick shift also goes to show how manuals are behind autos. Though incredibly impressive, auto's run faster times. We're talking about technology vs human ability here. The only downside to the Supra mkiv is it's four gear range, not utilising the power band enough. But even then, it's going to be better than a bad driver who can't control the gear lever well enough.

I've replaced using fresh cheaper oil in the past. Run it for ten minutes then drained. Then filled up with the new desired oil. It's much safer than a flush and gives the same benefits. Thougu I didnt see the point everytime.

I'd get a new cap. Just to at least remove it from the equation.

What sensor did you use. I run a higher bar on my rad. 1.3 bar. Not that it's related to your issue.

I feel like the new guy reading you oldies battering away:D

I've been advised by lots of peoples to use bathroom sealant. Due to being moisture repellent. Has been great so far. Not that its seen huge amount of rain

If it didn't need rings fitted I didn't read it for about 8 years lol The other two were spent on battling people bashing NA-tuning

I dont make cables I'm afraid. St205 is the common one. GTE wont do the job. I had someone off the forum make me a special. Cant remember who now. Someone off forum made it for me. Baldy or Simon. Cant remember their name. I went with dbw in the end. Too many issues with low quality throttle body. I'd recommend same advice to the thread OP.

I have a custom FFIM. I used a larger throttle but you can always use the stock one if you extend the cable. Which you'll need anyway. I had to extend my wires too. I used a mkiii iacv. I didn't need to move my fuse box. But had to relocate my power steering reservoir. Xspower doesn't kit Keith. Not sure how good it is. I've always used ones I've made myself. Vacuum ports are a joke lol.. All in all. If you include a throttle upgrade itll net you some power hopefully

Get the most expensive you can afford. Itll be free horsepower. If you get a cheap one with low technology internal geometry. It could cost you performance.

Now you know what its like to try and setup a headlight refurb business. Both comments feel like I've been there mate!

Looks brand new. I'd offer a refurb service. Would get some takers. Very professional job. Well done mate.

Dont take David too personally Herbie. Hes a lovely cuddle bunny who is only trying to say hello in his own special way.

Seems a waste not to put a TRD spoiler on it most would say

Rocket dog racing does emanage tunes I believe. Lee at SRD should be able to tell if if the ecu master is upto the job. Itll be the dizzy and auto box you need to focus on as pretty much everything else will be catered for. £600 is a great price for a new ecu. I dont see anything other than emanage for 3-400 or older AEM around 6-809 mark. Above that its aem v2. Personally sounds like you have a way forward already.

Not everyone can afford a high end build. I dont think you need to spend out on everything. I think he just got unlucky. I've never even seen an aluminium gasket. But granted lines are typically incorrect for most setups.

Hi mate. I've always had gasket issues. Mainly due to fitment, surfaces not being truly flat or removing parts so many times bits get damaged. Had few scrappy garages over the years. I assumed you meant turbo outlet exhaust until reference to the T4 flange size. I used a steel gasket. Never heard of an aluminium one. I'd be getting a steel one. Itll last forever. They usually fold the edges to give a seal. The gasket is determined by the turbo flange type, not the turbo itself. A bit like wheels using a standardised dimensions for the location of the holes.

Sounds good mate! Not many owners locally get together with cars like ours. So be a good trip down as not far either.

If you have a hole. I'd get it smoothed and painted to match the fash. Plenty of matching paints. Or get the prefacelift working on the facelift trans surround. May be easier in the long run.

If you've issues anyway for sure a rebuild is the best option. You put an interesting spin on selling to the US market. A good perspective on the sale of a Supra I hadn't considered.

I had to send them other adverts. Didnt arguen the £30k. I sent way more than the six photos though lol. Just in case! As never had a proper valuation before. Mines locked up overnight. 5k miles.

I'm glad I brought Reis to the forum. They've been great for me and everyone else who's used them so far. Dont forget to tell them I sent you. They give extra discount. I'm like a rep these days Tayr just move out your Bently in the night time!

Theres a few of us not far from you. When all this blows over. We can come visit and give you a hand. Let's face it itll be a good chat. Dont lose the spirit buddy.

I think if it's totally OEM with a T56. I'd agree. But if its modified. I think the T56 stands the same ground as a v160 upgrade. As would both be a little less than a true six speed. We all know it will eventually happen where a six speed supra is sold and the gearbox isnt even listed as being non standard. I've known buyers buy a TT6 single turbo and it ended up being a NAt with cam cover changed and a trans upgrade. Remember seeing Whifbitz having to remove the dizzy.

For me it's as simple as comparison the ratio of old vs new. 20 years+ 5k vs Brand new 6.5k (with clutch rated 700 ft lb). If we were talking a whole car it would be a no brainer. Or anything. A gearbox isnt that valuable it doesnt barely depreciate. I'm with you though Mike. It only makes sense if upgrading not replacing. Due to the weird market. But to be fair. I think theres still a chance a swap wouldnt lose its value but maintain it. It just wouldn't add any value of course.