Noz

Yeah I saw the seats on here being swapped not too long ago.

Can't believe the price on some of those sensors.

Perfect! Thanks boys. Wonder if Syvecs can control this.

Lol I meant the whole system really not a frame you have to fix on. Wheelie control. Wondering what tech would allow you yo control a wheelie. Adjust a setting and then suddenly throttle position controls the angle of the car. Thus allowing you to have a 1 inch. 2 inch height setting etc. Surely someone must have something in racing? Mike R154 isnt staying. It's only a stop gap!

Surely thats just hardware to stop wheelie rather than software buddy I have an electronic throttle. I was thinking an accelerometer with an electronic controller could adjust the throttle position to control front wheel lift. I'm sure there must be something like this already made

What hardware is out there regarding this? I'm keen to understand the technology. I can only find bike tech. Not sure what people have ever seen out there. I don't have this issue. But it's good to learn, and I'd love to drag mine at some point. Sure I need a few more ponies but still good to see what others know.

I'd like to do something a bit unique. Supra engine bays have been done to death. I like making my own parts. If I can combine making something new. I'll likely buy some bits and consider brass plating if I dont want to make everything. Like cam covers. Only as I cant be doing with faffing with tolerances. I've done that when I made my own billet spark cover, which was a 3D scanned version of the GTE cover. Just thought I'd add some touches before I go mad. Want my engine to look a bit more interesting. If someone else can buy it. I dont see the point. I'd rather save the cash than keep up with so many others bottomless pocket builds.

http://blog.parker.com/why-are-brass-fittings-preferred-by-truck-manufacturers

But if the whole thing is brass? No aluminium contact. Obviously the a contact material with the water. The materials wouldnt be touching. So no reaction surely.

From what I know. I'd go cd009. 350z gearbox. Its 6 speed and seems more reliable than the w58. That would be my choice. You'll need pedals. Clutch and slave cylinder. Gearbox itself wont be much different in price either. Worth the extra spend.

I've toyed with this for years. Mainly due not knowing the end goal. Years ago when I made some prototypes, my goal was to make a superior fitting. But so many companies provide such a nice finish, I just bailed. But, wanting to make my own products. For my own engine. Has anyone ever considered using brass? I've never seen it and I don't see any reason there would be a chemical reaction with engine fluids. I'd like to use brass for all sorts. So at this moment, I'm not isolating a single use of that material.

Make a spacer? Wow, someone's getting adventurous! Check you out!

Love a bit of car park tuning there

Burst out laughing on that one!

Unless you have a show winning engine bay, personally I'd leave it. Or. Look at it like this. If the paint on your bonnet, in some places, looks a bit crack, as if it's matt due to the heat damaging it, would this bother you much? If not, remove it. But it's a trade off for external visual vs engine bay visual. I'd be keeping it.

Lol made me chuckle. Curious though, why only a 'small' island?

I like the feature at the lower section of the door. The bit that does flow with the doors surface. It's very well designed and suits that area well. Most just blend the shit out of everything. I know the challenges with such a project. You've done well. - - - Updated - - - Not David's. Too shiny wheels. David is a man of strength. Not shine. Sending my best regards Mr P

Maybe so. But 15 years doesnt whip past for anyone lol.

Tax and MOT exempt soon? You kidding right? Car's need to be 40 years old for that I'm afraid. I wouldn't call 15 years soon lol. Faces on this forum will change greatly by then!

Save up. Get a turbo.

He was asking about lost low end power due to the ratio. Not power on the same map. Hes brought it up before mate. That he feels its slower low end than it was NA. Computer says no lol

Correlating NA power vs NA-t power. Boost vs NA. Boosting the NA OEM ratio would, of course, be different. But we are talking from a before vs after situation mate, rather than what's the potential best performance situation. - - - Updated - - - It's the way forward, I've always wanted pre-spool nitrous!

Torqamp is a safer choice I think Keith. I've been considering pre shot nos for years. I'm just worried about the transition of power

As Style mentioned. Toyota did indeed design and define the car as a tourer. However, that doesn't mean it's got to be defined as a hauling sluggish motor vehicle. The fan base has turned the car into something much more. But by definition, it's a GT, touring 3 door. However much you stomp lol. Regarding the torque difference, NA is 10.0:1. Various sources to hand state 9.2:1 is an NA engine with a TT headgasket. I'd just like to add that TT owners don't complain about the low-end drop in performance, and they have a 8.5:1 ratio so will see worst low-end response. There is some data on thermal efficiency when considering engine engines with Otto cycle. https://www.ohio.edu/mechanical/thermo/Intro/Chapt.1_6/Chapter3d.html Feel free to research To generalise, you can find data online that indicates a rough amount of power loss for the lower compression ratio. Remember, however, this value is below 3.8k before the turbo spools. Once that turbo begins to introduce a pressure change you are above and beyond the NA. I've spent time looking into this, understanding the maths and I believe strongly there's going to be a 5-10% loss in torque at the most, in sub 4k rpm values. Looking at the stock dyno curve, that's maybe 20 ft lb. Honestly. If this bothers you, buy a torqamp electric charger pre-turbo. Gives 200 ft lb at sub 4k rpm. I'm considering it for lower end power. But not, to replace what my compression ratio has lost. That's really peanuts. I find it highly unlikely you'll be able to notice it. Your lower end power felt as a percentage, more responsive. It was around 50-60% of your total power. Now, its 30-40% if not less. So that part of your power band is going to feel less by comparison. The car will, of course, feel slower lower down, because the overall performance power band is not the same distribution of power it once was. It's been increased at the top end not the bottom. You need to honestly get over this compression stuff mate. It's not an issue. Wanting lower down performance is a separate issue that we all want, but chasing the compression ratio you have lost isn't the way to get this. You haven't lost anything worth worrying about low end.

The Supra was designed as a tourer. You seem ranting more than discussing there. If you and your brother intended to purchase the fastest option for that model then yes, you bought the wrong one. But you also bought an NA so engagement and affordability were the main factors. They made manuals for same reason they made leather seats. Preference of buyers. An auto box is faster than a manual. That's a known fact. Various OEMs even list auto variants with a lower 0 to 60 typically, for a range of car types sizes and shapes. I mean we arent breaking new ground with this information. A manual is just more engaging for the driver. You asked if a self playing piano was faster than someone sat in front of it. Not, does the self playing piano feel nicer to listen too. You cant create a discussion on standing start speed and use your own preference of not wanting the car to 'do it for you' as support for the manual being faster lol! I prefer manuals also. But I know shifting be it more fun, is inefficient done by a human not a machine. As per your title. From a standing start, or am I missing something lol?