Noz

1. Josh42 - Staffordshire 2. blythmrk - Derbyshire/Yorkshire 3. erachter - West Sussex 4. Mike2JZ - Zimbabwe 5. Ben_harmer32 - West Sussex 6. Safcdixon - Durham 7. AdamAMG - Mars 8. Tayr - Uranus/Hampshire 9. Lewmc93 - Merseyside / The TSS 10. Mwilkinson - Hampshire 11. m12aak - Leicester 12. Kev.O - Bristol 13. Samurai 20V - South Africa, Durban 14. Trebor69 - Swadlincote 15. Drift_bear - Aberdeen 16. Harrypm82 - Manchester 17. bonus_2000 - Kent 18. Sukhy - Wolverhampton 19. Dnk - Dunk - Redditch 20. Noz - Devon You can filter the active user list by last post if you want contributing members, using the member list that's linked earlier in the thread. Good tool actually never seen it.

Cheaper to borrow someone's wheels. Make some friends maybe make your life easier

Was talking to friends earlier about people missing owning a supra. Love a loud exhaust on an NA! Once of my favourite mods when mine was NA was the lightweight flywheel.

Anyone have any spare they dont want anymore, before I begin the exciting journey if buying some.

Always use a lower temp for a bit longer rather than hotter. Safest bet. When pulling apart. Put pressure on and just wait. The elastomer material doesnt like pressure but comes apart better with force over seconds rather than forceful tear down.

May have got archived when there were security issues. Much of old content got moved around.

Just dont dig as far back as when you bought it:D

Something like this would be fine https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/223476419578 However. If you have NOT totally removed the original seal. You will have issues shutting the light. If you have kept the old black original sealant. Just put Diall on both edges. If you use Butyl tape. Put on the headlight casing and warm in the oven. It will go together much better. At a low temp of course.

How much for the fan?

Lol at that fan lol wtf. Replacing the screen should fix your issue. Get new if you can. Better chance of there not being any broken sections.

Sadly the chrome on the reflectors is damaged even when wiping or cleaning. Typically you should only ever clean the reflector with a brush to remove any broken glass (typical from bulbs blowing up) and a micro fibre, using your breathe on it, no water, no chemicals and very gentle cleaning. It's that delicate. Anything else just causes water marks or scratches. Never used the Halfords chrome aerosol. Personally, think you get what you pay for. I've been looking at this chrome paint to repair my wheels though. It isn't cheap however, I mean it's seriously expensive. But it looks the part. https://www.stardustcolors.co.uk/chrome-paint/1229-brush-on-chrome-chrome-paint-using-brush.html?search_query=chrome&results=50#/1000-packaging-100ml Use Butyl tape in the seal. `Black Silicone` is too general. There are two types of sealant. Naturally curing, and solvent curing. Solvent curing must not be used, not enough air flow and the sealant won't go hard. If you have not totally removed the original sealant from the headlight and are re-heating the unit and just wanting to replace some of the material, use Diall Clear sealant from B&Q. It can look like its peeling but it doesn't need air to cure. If you've removed the seal, get Butyl tape, its what the OEM uses (12mm if I remember correctly).

Your statistically more likely to have an accident if you've been involved in one. Regardless of fault. So they make you declare it.

90mm bosch drive by wire I can recommend! Response feels incredible.

I've just googled twin chamber intake manifolds. Man that's some weird design work. Must be a reason. Only quick look.

£70 posted

Can't go wrong buying an expensive throttle body. I had a cheap one, tuner said it had to be binned. Setup a decent throttle body from the start is my advice. Cheap throttle body means poor accelerator control. In my opinion, any manifold with well shaped internal flow passages, trumpets or large machined radius edges leading into the runners, is the desired outcome. From a function viewpoint, it doesn't matter about much else. Aside from build quality, shape, various views on a straight design vs a tampered. Some people hit 1000hp on the OEM manifold. I'm not sure it's a critical component for 1khp. If 1k is the goal, I'd use the stock inlet. But, I'm only 600hp and my multiple manifold experience is on GE engines. Maybe someone else can chime in with experience if it's really a worthy investment.

As Mike says. Manual boost controllers are dangerous. With with an electronic one. Manual controllers are false economy when it comes to saying on tuning costs.

Just pipe the IC best fit. Itll go. Plenty if places. Outlet down low as soon as you can and intake can come in from the bumper to drivers wing. Will need to 180. Some go through the bay. Under the car. Bumper. Depends on you're setup. You'll find it easier than you think. But get the pipe ends rolled so they have a lip on them. I didnt back in my early days and when a pipe pops off, you learn. Get a 4runner cap for the dizzy. Reduces its protruding size. Elbow on the turbo may be needed bit not a big deal.

? You said inlet manifold. So, I was speaking about, the inlet manifold. Xspower exhaust manifold has done me well for 9 years. Rock solid boost control at 400hp and been good for 600hp for me, since last year. Referring back to your current topic though of INLET manifolds, it's a proper ball ache and upto 500hp is doable with OEM inlet. With that tiny radius on the cylinder inlet, you won't see much gain. You want a smoother path or trumpets in there really. It looks way better. But if you only want 400hp. Save your cash. It isn't needed. I saw 417hp and I changed the manifold purely because I could afford it. Don't expect any other cosmetic improvement from it and trust me, it's hassle. Put the money towards a better wastegate or something you'll really benefit from - extra gauges or ECU sensors (if you have capability)

I sold one for cheap when I learnt the importance of flow design. A manifold with holes doesnt mean itll he an improvement! Make sure it's a smooth path for the inlet.

Just use yours mate. Save the pennies.

Probably to save him tapping the return for turbo feed.

Have you got a signal from the ECU to the ignitor? Sometimes the ignitor isn't great. As well as the worn coil

Style was proposing you fit a gte pump gear. Swapping a gte pump would bring the gear with it usually. So we are saying the same thing.

You'll need to ditch the dizzy sensor and run a gte oil pump for a signal. Distributor only provides one pulse output per cam gear rotation. This isnt enough for the ecu. Thus you'll need a stand alone or for the GTE ECU using crank position off the oil pump.