Noz

Maybe trace the coil back. Rather than search for an aftermarket ignitor. It's only managing the fire sequence after all like a relay/counter. Its uncertain what the ecu is doing that the ignitor has to do with the new setup. Ignitor isnt really needed if its able to fire directly into the coil perhaps.

Oil cooler in front of aircon will be fine. Ignitor outputs will be needed if you go back to stock ignition or used for other wires for coils. Dont cut it off. Just put it to one side.

Because you get the gain without being too expensive. Mines black are hardly noticeable. I didnt want it looking like I had an A3 with the pipes cut through the outside of the bumper. Dont you run one of those noisy whiny things that are like a turbo but slower

We use a muze at work. It's a good all rounder. Just get an enclosure with any of them. As noise can be an issue if it's an extended print.

You dont have to use the crank sensor. You can remove it. But you'll need the AEM installed of course. The TT has a crank and cam sensor which is maybe why its replicated it. Maybe theyve used a TT configuration on the DTA. But you can just use the dizzy output. Regarding a PS cooler. The type of driving should dictate if its needed. Not the miles. As it doesnt get hotter over time. It gets hotterif inefficient or over used. I'd say it's not needed.

TRD revs to 10k. Looks like its just the speedo?

Check part number on them. Google it or post it up. Likely they are indeed 7mgte injectors.

Very cool. I've been thinking about getting a snapmaker. Would be perfect so so many applications.

Sure the wings never been off? Using a panel may not be the best datum. Measure off another location point. To ensure your comparing wheel position and not measuring a variable. Use a laser based off the door perhaps. The rear arch or soomething other than the wing. Not to say those are also possibilities to have being removed also. Just a second opinion / reference point might help you.

Some will say. Its because it's an NA

I had terrible traction with pilot sports. But that was end of last year. Not that it was Baltic weather or anything.

GTE injectors are side feed. GE fuel rail uses top feed injectors. Not sure how these could be used on an NA-t. Probably bestselling them separately and listing if they are JSpec or UK spec (440 vs 550 I think, best to check that. I don't dip into GTE stuff too often)

Whats your power level. I used to be able to wing it with a mid range on my 10J rears with a 265 tyre. The odd slop in second with the T61 at 400hp with 18s. Now at 600 on a 13J skinny 19inch I have to use soft compound to use third gear.

I need to read through your thread again. You've had so many changes lol! What compression are you currently. Is there much extra work needed to hit that? Assume decking, updated bolts. I see you run a 6870. SRD had one of those with the T51r mod on. Is that yours by any chance? Do you think your turbo choice contributes to the spool. You must be the only guy I see running a sub 70mm turbo. Which makes perfect sense. Sized for use.

I've been looking at your dyno curve vs other 1000hp supra / cars. I'm in awe and people dont seem to point this out to other 1khp supras. I havent seen such a decent curve before. What do you feel contributes to this, what main points aside from the VVTi have you found really did get spool and power to initialise mate please.

Not sure mate. I've considered door bars on my cage for a while. Not because of this but generally.

Toyota didn't design it to need a cage bro at 160mph. Its safe LOL Gamble as you wish!

Well, you learn something every day I suppose. Us little NA owners are always glad of a little coaching. I'll sell my UK specs asap! Such a waste lol

Have you ever seen a supra roll? Goes like a pancake. Jspec brakes cant cut the mustard. You need decent brakes doing those speeds really. If you upgraded because they get cooked why question me advising better brakes?

Driving a stock looking car worrying about the splitter at 160mph. I'd be spending the money on a cage and decent brakes if that's your regular goal. I think it's a nice visual touch though.

£550ish also. NAt 600hp 30k value. I got no refund!!!!!!

You could trace where it goes to determine what function or components it supports. Which would be a good indicator of what it does. I used to repair electronics for a living and you dont need the manufacturers to give you the golden nod on what it does. That's just nonsense. However. A faulty capacitor can cause issues you could never expect even when it looks fine. Visually you may have the right capacitor. That component or component that may contribute towards your issue may be totally different. To predict what problems could be caused by that capacitor leaking or by others current failing components is impossible. Youd be best to just replace any failed visual components and if it doesnt resolve anything call it a day. As you need it running during testing to be able to identify components and that's less than ideal so I'd call it not possible. Due to the risk involved. Testing prodding an ecu while running on an engine. Best to identify the value on the side of the capacitor and replace it. It's good practice either if it isnt detrimental to your issues just yet. Personally if you have other issues suspect of the ecu. It's time to source another one. Of course. Just my opinions.

Yeah man I know you had nos before. I mean, I do kinda know who you are! I'm glad you sacked off the throttle body idea.

I'd like to think traction control would have a pretty good chance. My 19 40 325 R888 hook pretty good and my chambers pretty shit. Certain with a proper setup might be better.