Noz

Well ill have some rings for sale soon and one set of refurbed lights with rings

I still have some material left from my stock of headlight rings which I'm selling. I keep finding old stocks of material so it seems a waste not to form it and sell it rather than throw it out. I'm not making new sets or doing refurbs anymore im afraid. I started a guide thread to how I prefer to do them and have barely managed to even open them as ive been waiting to get this old material formed. I'm hoping in the next few weeks to have some rings to ship. But this really is the last of the rings I'm doing. Id consider selling the tooling if someone wants to press their own. My days of trading or offering services are no more im afraid guys.

Sod off lol.. your like the resident forum detailing guru. Share your knowledge my friend!!

With the right kit. Its amazing the difference. Peter... I can see you spying on this thread lol did expect you to add some value here ... waiting!!

Sadly spare parts like those from upgrades, are more common. So not massively needed in the market. As an engine. Obviously loads. Unless someone's had failure. I cant think of a reason people usually need to purchase those bits.

Just any of it mate really. But more so paying for someone to do the detailing for you.

Wow you old bro Ah cool. So you see it as a pre show top up. You never thought of doing the prep yourself?

Square wave just means binary, a digital wave mate. On or off. It'll just be a voltage. 5v or 12v. Most cars use 12v signals. But if its direct into the ecu id expect it to use low voltage signals, which will make it 5v. But. I don't know. The only other variation might be high or low resistance. That could be easily resolved.

Whats the frequency rate. Might be cheaper to build an electronic signal converter. Surely its just a pulse. If someone could tell me the desired signal and the sensor output. As long as we can keep up with the fresh rate. I could wire something and that would just be a secondary requirement with the sensor. To standardise the signal.

Just curious really. If people use them. And how often.

Clifford 650 is a nice alarm. Doesn't sound too bad. Nice features. Window close and all the sensors on mine. Decent keyfob. Can recommend. Also not too expensive.

Id use a 62mm turbo. Moving into the 64mm will give more power opportunity that you don't need. My 62mm can do 750hp. 6251r. Id not up the size. Just my views

600 is the most i think anyone should go for with a stock bottom end. Do your research mate. There are plenty of builds at 600. Not many after. So i wouldn't.

GTE headgasket takes it to 9:1. Piston dish is different so it won't drop fully to 8.5

Run flats are terrible to ride in. My suspension is too hard anyway but christ. It stiffened the tyre and I couldn't get any grip with a 345 wide tyre.

whifbitz supplied mine!

A decent bottom end 'should' be fine upto 800hp without racing. But then even at 6-700 that's quite the margin and things can be unexpected with their failure. Online reading tells us 600 is common ground for abused and driven daily setups. Above that stuff does seem to go wrong. I think 7-800 is crazy without a build. But. It has been done quite a bit in the US. I wouldn't call it reliable though. And no one ever races with that hp. I mean I'm taking 650whp+ However. I've slightly lower compression on two cylinders since being at 600 on a stock bottom end. Noticed when looking for some smoke and found a turbo oil leak. So though it could not drop any further. Sometimes stuff just wears out. I'm personally considering a rebuild just to be safe. I may have never noticed it unless looking. Some people have hit 400 and spun a bearing. I'd use the hp as a target. Rather than rpm. I try not to think about rpm too much. As it should really be power dependant which in line will predict your cam usage. Remember mate. Rpm limit going up means your power band is higher due to cams and that means losing lower down rpm usage! There should be no other reason to raise the rev limit in my opinion. Other than to chase the power band (or in a drag situation where shifting isn't worth it and you want a little more in the lower gears, seen that before too).

Cams aren't needed for 600hp and are overkill really. Mine revs to 7200. Stock springs. Need bottom end doing as well really if you want a safe block above 600. Thus. 600 is a good goal on a stock refreshed head. Mine hardly ran for 5 years. Banged out 1.5 bar 7200 rpm at 600 fine. If you want 700 at any point. Do cams and springs now.

Bump. Price drop.

A 700hp stroker NAt being reliable does raise some eyebrows lol I mean hopefully itll be okay but stuff goes wrong sometimes. I'd ditch the 4bolt and get a vband welded onto it. Doesnt look like my XSmanifold the wastegate outlet looks a bit weird. But guys mention it could be an early one so maybe so. Most low cost tubular look the same so it's hard to know. I'd just vband the wastegate and brace it. I ditched the 4 bolt WG at 400hp and went with a 60mm Turbosmart. But I had over 400hp for years without issues. But always felt it was a cheap part. You can cut corner with some things. A wastegate isnt one I'd do again.

Its mad seeing forum members posts older than my membership

Is300 is vvti. I've never seen a non vvti 2jz in one mate.

Worth mentioning theres a set of facelifts in there. And they are clear lenses.