Noz

yet again mate 6 days to work your camera whats on going!

After the small caps that are in top of headlight which is removed when condensation in headlight. Thanks

Team Boner starts here

I get a bonus every three months I get 3.75% of my anual wage, as long as I'm a good boy that is. The payment system is called RONA, its based on the companies profit margin and is increasing all the time. Though it could decrease as well..

The engine is good for up to 700bhp depending on how far you want to take it. On stock internals, compression and injectors your good for 360-385 depending on how healthy your engine is and other supporting parts work.

Whats all the buttons next to the loo?

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I would go with ultimate emanage, it has a few more features and you can pick them up pretty cheap. BarnyBrendan has one for sale. Im running a missfire and once its sorted Im hoping to get that extra 25hp. Im running bigger injectors as well. You can hit my power on stock injectors and save some pennies. My dyno is all over the place due to not running 100% but Im still pleased with that on the day. I would just go through my list and see what you need and don't need or feel you are unsure about. Get a new or fairly new boost controller. The one I bought didn't even work! A good wastegate is always recommended. Just go through my list and PM me any questions you have mate.

Mate I think the TT head gasket is 1.6mm. 1.3mm is recommended for a good NA-T due to keeping some of that compression. ClubNA-T has information guarding where you can order a gasket set for this size. Alot of people do poo poo the idea of this as you get a squish (don't think spelt that 100%) effect where the chamber doesn't completely empty it's burnt fuel. Almost like dead spots in a room that aren't vented properly due to the chamber and head design not considering the extra width of a thicker head gasket. BUT saying that, alot of conversions don't have any issues and this can add to det, but your hit 500+ bhp until you will need to address this. You have two main factors with doing an engine build on a seperate engine, money, and power requirements. Time would be the other main factor, but considering you don't need the engine running your sorted. I was a bit stuck for time so when a problem arose I just had to do whatever it took to get it running. If you can take as long as you want, money probably won't be a huge issue as long as you don't go silly. So you need to set yourself a power requirement. There are loads of NA-T builds to give you an idea of whats required for what power levels, but on a stock kit your looking at 360hp at least, but if you spend another grand you can be hitting near 450hp if all is well. But your getting close to transmission limits! I set myself a target of 400 due to not wanting to change my gearbox at the moment. So you need to find out what limitations you have being manual or auto and if you want to keep stock injectors or stock compression, and decide which your prepared to upgrade. stock injectors won't like 400hp for example. stock compression won't like 12psi without water/meth injection. Don't forget to consider mod's that will safe guard your engine as well, oil cooler, decent intercooling, heat protection via manifold / downpipe wrap or turbo blanket etc (I need to get the wrap myself as I have loads of heat at 373hp on unwrapped manifold).

my old man said due to no build up around the plugs he wouldnt think it was running lean when i asked him last night, i always thought a white tip indicated it wasn't combusting properly. thanks for letting me swap stuff over mate if i cant get it running right il pop down after Xmas on one of my days off and grab the bumper as the same time.

Guys, I think 1.1mm gap is maybe too big as preset before, I read somewhere it should be 0.032" so might try this. Also, looking at the plugs the first 3 chambers (from the front) have white tips. I'll upload some pics later. Theres no build up around the base, the last 3 chambers are a light brown colour (which is normal). Would the tips be white due to not firing correctly? The throttle body being located at the front of the engine is this just conindence the leak would of affected the first three chambers first being closest to the leak?

a T80 is a bit big. You would have to look into the actual dimensions of the internals for a better estimation for what power figures they would be pushing. It would be very laggy, I assume the inducer will be around 80mm, other manufacture turbo's can push over 1000bhp with a 79mm turbo, just to give you some idea how big it actually is. You would be better ordering your own T61 from XS which will actually have a 69mm inducer (should be 61mm weird I know), unless you are aiming for 600bhp the T80 is a bit big. One thing that may help define that turbo you choose, is not only what power goal you have, but what are your aims on supporting modifications? Do you aim to reduce the compression ratio by changing the head gasket or swapping pistons?

What nuts/bolts do you use to hold the wheels together? I've got some 17" 275 split rims I want to track but could do with a clean up, did you use the ones that came with the wheels or replace them? I was considering replacing mine but Was worried what stock bolts would look like, the olds ones are a bit naffed

A proper long hard beating isn't what I'd like to build for. I'd like the power there but not constant abuse so I'm hoping with water/meth I can get to where I want to go before I'd need a new gearbox. Don't see many people using water/meth on here, maybe it won't make as much difference as I hope.

Sweet wheels, very jealous!

^^^^ not sure if ive ever seen such reliability with the XSturbos

I'll take them out tonight and keep you posted

I think for my appication chris the best way forward would be a 1.3mm gaskett, some bigger injectors and job done. Would be interesting how much extra I could gain with water/meth. I'd love to see an NA with higher CR pistons, there are 11.?:1 knocking around with boost, that would be awesome. Would generate some serious heat on those pistons though.

So your locating a injector before the charger to reduce the heat in the charger as well as take advantage of the det properties from the meth, and 3 after to cool the combustion chamber?

Paul dried the chambers out pretty well to be fair, I can't find any visual water lying around anywhere. With a large amount of water in the plug well, is there a possibility the water surrounding the contact between the lead and the plug could of damaged the plug or the inside of the lead?

Usually the components have issues fitting together ok, like manifold positioning and downpipe directions, sometimes needs modifying for fitment. Many people have had no issues with the turbos, the quality has improved but as you get what you pay for the quality may not match up to the standard of Garrett. Though drive a turbo hard and it could fail whatever make it is.

Sat in the rain under cover eating bacon sarnies at Exeter listening to that aweful Saxo pumping the tunes. Was a moment I shall always remember and keep close to my heart. Those sarnies were nice.

I assume your going to be running water/meth then at such high compression with 1bar. Are you using standard head bolts?

1.1.... bar?

I've had a look on clubna-t and because it's funded by XSpower all advise gives is anything over 9psi use a 1.3mm HG and drop compression to 9.2:1. That claimed it doesn't make any difference to drivability but would be good to try and run a stock NA compression with higher than usual boost reliably. What compression were the singles running?