Noz

He did. They are still burning. They may never stop.

edit >> advanced edit ^^^ to modify thread title mate.

bet your getting excited now!!

Clear heat resistance paint? Never seen that. I'm gonna do my UK's before I fit them, but having multispokes no one will see them

You can change the bulbs with the same ballast. The ballast are power rated ie wattage (35w etc), the bulbs are different values of light frequency and use the same amount of power just at a different wave length as I understand it.

Decibell

I'll have the engine for £20, your in profit already

Ask Craig buddy (jekyl), he usually has loads of spare bits lying around. I often see him selling clutchs and flywheels he may have one spare.

Yes mate No more waving at me from Wile's car Gonna get lots of video's this year got my mate who was in the celica riding with me this year, so he will be the camera man. Got a bit tricky last year trying to keep up and do video's. James is thinking about getting himself a GoPro, think we'll have lots of fun this year on the cruise up there.

No problem mate. Makes me feel all warm and fuzzy knowing I've helped make that engine bay look sweet. Custom is the way forward If you need to get the number plate surround cut let me know. I think that would look awesome if it was sprayed marble? http://i228.photobucket.com/albums/ee65/jay_forever21/2012-01-25205345.jpg

£500, that must of been risky, how worried must he be when he got that dyno'ed, I worried my wastegate wouldn't open and it ended up being a faulty boost controller.

Going single on a TT or going NA-T will normally bring extra costs that you don't budget for. The cost of a TT engine if it all goes wrong is a big difference to the NA engine replacement cost. Swapping an NA to TT, then going single, then upgrading transmission, isn't worth the cost IMO. If he has that much free money buy an auto TT and go single. Shouldn't ever buy an NA with the plan for huge power as the compression is wrong, pistons need replacing and so will the transmission. Too much hassle going NA.

From what I understand. The percentage of meth to fuel would have to be in the tank, and rather large to take up the ratio of 95:99, meth is over 100 is it 114 I can't remember off the top of my head. I don't think a water/meth injection system would be the best way to increase the octane, and purely only used as that. From comparing dyno runs using different octane fuel, for example 95 to 99, the power increase on high performance engines is usually noticable, from the dyno used on the first post on this thread the power increase with water/meth injection wasn't anywhere near as much as the improvement from a different fuel, so I wouldn't of thought the extra octane in the meth would be able to account for the loss of octane with the lower rating fuel. Plus the fact, if it was a 50/50 mix, the amount of meth required to increase the octane rating to 99-101 would also include enough water to reduce power I would of thought?

Ah I see. are you having another made then fibreglass it on?

Can I rent them?

I'll start the bidding at £10 for the wightstuff voucher

Bracket? You mean for the shroud?

My engine pushed a ropey 373bhp, and I've thrashed it and had no problems. Though I don't slam from gear to gear. Hard pulls when in gear, the transition should be done with a `bit` of consideration as the box isn't the strongest.

I also read the pre-vvti engines are stronger, and anything the 3uz can do, the 1uz can do just as well.

Aquamist ahoy it is then. The link you gave me says their HFS-6 is discontinued, yet there is a system on ebay. Strange?

Wouldn't bother doing that. it's like buying a new engine to replace one thats not broke. Replacing internal gearbox components isn't worth the hassle if the components haven't failed, and aren't being uprated. Wait for it to fail. Unless you already have a gearbox problem of course. If it current drives and feels fine, then replacing components is money down the drain. You don't know if the gearbox will fail, so why swap bits Save your money for a decent clutch and lightweight flywheel.

I have seen many w58's handle 350bhp & 350ft lb without problems. If your going to use the soarer v8, I always thought that was 280bhp stock NA. Parry is currently running about 425bhp through his TT lump on his w58 box and has yet to have any issues. A good condition box should handle it without any problem. If you have problems with your box before the conversion, then it may not make a difference it may still fail. A box can fail through abuse and poor service combined with constant drag racing with slick tyres. Jekyl ran his w58 on 500bhp for a little while without any issues, though 3rd gear eventually failed.

I think the aquamist system looks great. The controller looks good quality, and everything looks like it has a function, and hasn't had any corners cut with making it. I think the AEM kit would work fine, but considering its a system that will stop my engine failing, it may be worth me getting the most costly product. I've looked at some comparisons and AEM seems to supply most of what aquamist includes in their basic kit. AEM will be cheaper, without a gauge, which would make it more expensive. In the long run, it may be more cost effective to buy the aquamist set up. Out of interest, why do you not like some AEM products? I was quite keen on buying their tru-boost controller.

I saw a full set of SP1's on ebay back along. See if I can find them if Jamesy doesn't pull through

Thanks for your advice mate. You've been a great help along my NA-T journey Was looking at the AEM 30 3000 kit, URL: http://www.efi-parts.co.uk/index.php?productID=205 The flow gauge was AEM and doesn't seem to have an output for trigger to reduce boost levels if flow is incorrect. I have seen an AEM meter gauge which does set levels for flow, you run it and use the software to adjust the high or low points. I can't remember what its called at the moment.