Noz

Hi all. Want to check the jumper pin's are connected right on my Emanage. The ECU was used on a TT previously, and Brendan told me yesterday they have different jumper pin's. Also I noticed 2 cap's had been changed, and a small component. Part Number: 83603 Component description: MICROPOWER VOLTAGE SUPERVISOR RESET ACTIVE HIGH Input/Output Rail-to-Rail Low Power Operational Amplifier This seems to have been changed, not sure if it's a common thing, or even how it would affect it. Any advice on the pin orientation would be appreciated.

If you click on advanced edit when editing your original post, it will allow you to edit the title so you can change the 9 and 10 width values. Nice wheels. GLWS

Thanks guys

Wheres a decent place to get a number plate made? Think I'd like to get a 3/4 size made for the front. Thanks

Happy birthday dude!

I was still debating this mate with my turbo set up. Due to cost, I think it would probably be cheaper to cut and weld TT runners to lower runners to use a TT aftermarket manifold as the GE designed manifolds are seriously pricey. I think on the same setup, a comparison between the stock IM and a FFIM would be great.

Any condition, as long as functional. Thanks

Guys, I am in need of an Aerial, with motor. I need it for a Celica st202, will the Supra aerial fit, as they look EXACTLY the same. Thanks EDIT: found this thread, it `should` fit.

Depends on what you want to do with it, turbo etc

Yes mate this is what we need!! Get it running for Japfest FTW be great to see her rolling.

Nice Trailer. GLWS

Random. Good spot. Ebay surfing again mate

Fair comments. More boost same displacement. Thanks guys!

Found this thread regarding mkIII supra's on supraforum: http://www.supraforums.com/forum/showthread.php?240760-Where-to-buy-.060-oversized-turbo-pistons I thought the 1jz block and 2jz were the same in width

It's like a celica front with supra side and MR2 wide arch rear, someones gone Toyota crazy with that beast

Most pistons are 86.5mm, so I will need a rebore whatever, plus I haven't opened it up to see what state the bores are even in. I don't want to stroke it, that's outside my financial bracket and can't justify it just for a little NA-T build. If I have to re-bore anyway then I might as well get oversize and have a little displacement, if I have to do it anyway then it's not costing anymore so worth a look

I've read a few places that 88m pistons are a bit risky, though I've found some CP pistons at 87.5mm with stock GTE compression 8.5:1: http://www.ebay.com/itm/CP-Pistons-2JZGTE-Supra-87-5mm-Bore-8-5-Compression-/360414930045 Doesn't give the weight, not sure if the weighted internals thread has these listed. Would 87.5mm be a bit risky, or would there be limitations? Clearly even with a re-build and new box I will be aiming for 600bhp. Anymore and I might as well just buy a TT lump. So 600bhp being the maximum, with a 9.1:1 compression ratio, would 87.5mm be ok?

Cheap mechanical bits will save you agro. A weld on a cracked manifold (if it cracks) won't break the bank. Buy NEW electronics. It's a PAIN if something doesnt work right. typically most mechanical bits are an easy fix. A faulty ECU, boost controller is NOT what you want. Don't go second hand unless its 110% trusted. Unless you peice it together bit at a time, it's probably easier going TT. Plus when you want to expand you have LOADS of cheaper parts as TT modification is more common (in relation to intake manifolds, fuel rails, most other stuff is the same). I'm picking up another engine this week to start building it from scratch, it will cost me more money for less power by the time i'm finished. Plus one big issue... TRANSMISSION!

I have one and think it's really good for mounted video's and also still shot. I often use the camera at car shows, gets some awesome fisheye lesh shots. I'm not overly impressed with the sound quality though, you have a difference cover if its used in water condition or on a dry day (open back) but still wasn't overly impressed. Video quality is pretty good. I don't regret buying it, even though I want a Canon 550D for video's, this is an awesome camera to do mounted filming. Beats alot of bullet cam's on the market.

Well done mate. Really glad for you. Hope you have lots of free time for those requests

I think what your looking for is veilside over fenders, you will need to wrap them, as most carbon fibre archs are replacements rather than additions to body work. If you do go down this route, it may be worth using carbon weave and then spraying them clear, as this gives a real-carbon effect, rather than the plastic 3D look of carbon wrap.

No worries, get some pics up when you get started be good to see how it goes mate.

if you mould a shaped intake in the front lense, it will become heavier, and the glue around the edge of the lense and small clips should be re-enforced somehow. Its alot of weight to trust a bit of silicon and 4 little clips, if that beast flies out when your driving you could do some serious damage to someone or something. The front lense is very light, the clips were designed for something that weighs hardly anything. Your intake will weigh around 5kg at least by the time your finished, that's about 20 times heavier than the clips are designed to take. When making your unit, I'd recommend fibreglassing some 20mm nuts into back of the lense (where your fibreglass anyway onto the mesh) and the main headlight unit. This way, you can cable tie it together when you use it, to give you that added security. Once you have made it your see how heavy it is, the surface area of the lense ridge isn't enough to hold it, so consider this when you build it as for my headlight I didn't use clips or silicon or glue, I made new secure holes and string the lot together each time I use it so it's easy to get apart if I need to, but also holds together strongly. Give it a warm day and go over a bump and loose a clip and next thing you know some santa pod locals have just had their arm cut off with some smashed up intake/lense! lol eeek

The tricky bit will be making your headlight the shape of your ducting. i recommend using mesh and not building it up with material as this will make the unit very heavy as I found out. If you know what shape you want then use mesh, its alot quicker. I didnt as I wasnt sure where I was going with the unit, and made it as I went along from an image in my head that changed as I worked on it. how are you going to connect the front of the headlight to the main unit? The lense is glued on at the moment, and with clips. Are you going to keep this method, as I found with the extra weight I didn't want to risk using silicon to hold it in, your find the back of the headlight becomes alot lighter than the front with a vent in the lense and the rear of the light cut out. Are you going to blend it like I did, or just have a single hole and keep the main shape of the lense? BTW: Where did you get your heat shield?

So removing all the internals as well so it won't even function as a headlight? Similiar to the one I made then? That should look good, going to include some ducting as well then to help direct the air?