Noz

Looks cool. Loving the coating. Whens test fit.

Its definitely lower speeds I notice it. Feels like less throttle makes a difference if I'm honest. Going for a drive tomorrow will report back. But less throttle seems to be more noticeable. So would be lower RPMs

Afternoon all, can't find anything on dr google. Have a really minor judder while driving under load. Feels engine related, disappears when clutch is in. Mainly during constant speed I can notice it. Could this be a misfire from coils? I must add, I think my piston rings have gone. Not sure the micro amount of oil going into the cylinder could cause that to happen.

Always enjoy reading your well balanced data driven posts mate! Thanks for chipping in.

I've a 4 inch downpipe and 60mm waste gate on mine for reference. I used mine out the box for 420hp for a few years. The mods came few years down the line.

Comes back to if you have the funds to do the bigger expense. The extra expense isn't critical. It's a nice to have. You could just use the cheaper one as it is. Just preference to make it a bit better really. Have you ever used a cheaper manifold, and had experience with one. Or just commenting from the viewpoint - buy the most expensive everything or it won't work Us NA owners can't always afford to do that.

What throttle you throwing on that manifold mate

I'd go with a cheap one mate. With a bit of support from a local welder and machinist I reckon could make it perfect for your setup. To summarise what I would do to a cheap ebay manifold from what I've learnt: - rotate wastegate port 180. Ideally with turbo and wastegate attached so you can ensure not too close together. - change 4 bolt to vband outlet or machine up a small adapter - brace turbo location against the main flange - machine flat the mating face just to be sure of sealing face - get some burrs. Attachments for cleaning passages and go over any welds internally as low cost manifolds won't have this I'd call that a job done. I wouldn't wrap it until you've used it for a bit. To make sure a few heat cycles doesnt cause any cracking. Hope it helps.

It really comes down to budget. If plan to have a huge turbo or have money able to spend on a costly manifold there's no harm in doing it, but its not essential. Think someone had a serious fitment issue with walton lately. I've got a cheaper xs power and never had any issues. The problem with the budget manifolds are the waste gate location being under the car. This is a right ball ache. I modified mine by rotating the waste gate outlet tubing to locate it in the engine bay now next to the turbo, but its just hassle to do that for most people. Benefit of costly manifolds they don't have this issue and its all there in the bay from the word go. I also ported my manifold to make it nice inside. But at 600hp I've never had any exhaust flow issues and boost control has been consistent. If you can afford a higher end manifold without impacting the project. Id go that route. If a manifold cracks. You can weld it. It's not a deal breaker. But rotating the waste gate outlet is for, sure hassle. And welding is highly unlikely. Some cheaper manifolds also report of not having a true flat mating surface on the head. I skimmed mine after rotating the WG outlet and adding bracing. But this was just a precaution, as it had been through some serious welding. Another step to ensure I had no issues, with an expensive one you shouldn't even have to worry about. My only other niggle is due to the custom work I cant fit an exhaust cover on for heat shielding. Turbo is too close to the WG. Which was just an oversize during placement. As I didn't think about heat protection. Just something to keep in mind whatever route you go. Having the wastegate under the car is not an issue. But if you have a problem. Suddenly it becomes a right pain. For sub 800hp, a cheaper manifold and a few home improvements go a long way and save lots of tokens. If you just want a plug and play option and can afford a pretty one, I'd get one from whifbitz or srd. I've not felt there's any benefit using an over seas supplier. If there's an issue. It's a lot of money to faff around over. I have a 6870 on order (which has taken nearly a fking year) and I intend to use one of the two suppliers above for that. Then I'll sell my beloved xs power.

Tastes change. Agree. If the car looks like a max power dream it's likely going to fall out of era. Think some of the more subtle kits look way nicer than stock though. Cant see anyone rocking a veilside again however. Just too much. Think I prefer oem over ridox though. That's been over exhausted in my view.

Good news. Well done driftworks

Just a bit lol.. Need a SW meet before year is over! @DodgyRog

People are returning to OEM and then won't sell their car anyway. Seems kinda stupid to me. Might as well just wait. Lack of body kits will make them rare again. Clearly a cycle. Better to have a body kit than risk a mismatch oem setup. I just think price hiking it only benefitting owners about to leave the scene. Which adds little value to remaining owners. More expensive parts. Less hobbyists. Less supras to enjoy just locked up in a garage. I suppose whats it worth thread's have been around as long as the cars have. Oem look can be nice. But just seems so over done these days.

Loads of ecu can handle that. But your wallet will feel a dent

Agreed. 20k the limit. That's a minter low mileage. Probably OEM as well which is boring. Bodykits be back in fashion before you know it.

Think @Mike2JZ had a couple back along

That's a good price to be fair. Especially with the named driver.

they could probably send you over a new lip. then its just the hassle switching it carefully.

Lovely wheels. Always wanted that exact set years ago

Looks pretty awesome. No price?

Haven't you got a build thread here mate?

Way faster for me to do maths on a calculator than Google it lol.. surely you aren't that old yet mate!

You sure that's 87.5% ?

That's how ownership goes! I've said I'd stop when I got where I am. Now my list is more than the cars worth lol

Top work. Might as well grab a 90mm+ crank while you're getting a new crank