TheTurtleshead

Updates! Almost back on the road and ready for summer. Just need to polish one wheel and seal them and it's done. Apologies for the orientation of some pictures! Fitted some UK rears I got from Lee. A customer of his was upgrading and these are apparently from a recently imported car, so thankfully in excellent working order. I then tackled something that has bothered me for a while... Pretty sure the supra never came with a N/S rear arch liner/dirt shield, only an O/S one? (It became even more annoying when I noticed the gravel rash on my rear silencer box when polishing it up) I set about making one, and the required mounts, to both protect my exhaust box and the rear inner arch from crud build-up, which could lead to premature rusting. Here is what I came up with. I slathered it in a thick coat of plasti-dip before fitting. I figured it would be more resistant to the stones than paint.

You don't need to drill anything on a supra! I did this job the other week, all the box sections/ cavitys are accessible with strategic removal of arch liners/heat shields/bolts/ grommets from the as-standard grommeted holes in the box sections.

Gave the HKS Ti a polish up prior to re-fitting. Found the brackets were suffering from quite a lot of surface corrosion, so I stripped them back and painted them up in an attempt to protect them. FYI- The springs are stainless and coated in copper slip, hence why they are brown. (No rust!)

You won't have any issues with spool believe me! That's a 1.00 A/R Journal 6266 on my car, spool is instant on the road, (Slightly sooner than on the dyno) I think you'd be limiting yourself needlessly on overall power is all. I get full boost by 3200 rpm on the road in 4th.

Nice. I'd have gone for the 1.00 A/R personally.

Love it. I had a guards Red S1. Like an older cousin to the supra really. Best combo there as well, s1 bumpers with oval dash.

Me, my Dad, DavidP, and the Girlfriend I think..!

I have a chrome-ringy thing for the gearstick if you want one Jake? I'll never fit it, went off of the look.

Sometimes you get away with it and the pump will run from the stock fuel pump ecu, sometimes you need to wire up a relay which is triggered by the fuel pump ecu. Good time to run a new 30amp fused feed from the fuse box for your new pump

Prison sentence surely?!

Small update! Shocks have been away and been dyno'd to asses the condition. I found one of the retaining caps on a rear shock body was loose(keeps all the valves etc where they should be inside the shock). I stripped them down and popped them off with my shock guy for a dyno run after tightening up the cap. Thankfully they are all perfect according to my shock guy. The attached dyno plot for one of the pairs shows they are pretty even side to side which is good. I also sand blasted and painted the lower shock bodies as they were suffering from minor surface rust. All refitted now, should last a few more years

I was thinking of coming to this now. I am pondering if I bought and Individual display ticket, would I be able to sneak onto the club stand if I got there nice and early... Maybe. If not I can be a lone wolf

I run this exact setup, it gives you a great mid-range and makes the torque kick quite brutal. My car made 708hp - 640ft/lbs on a Journal 6266 with V-Power. Surprised you're changing them Greg, all I'd do is buy a 264 intake cam if you want more at the top end. You must be going for a 6466 and 8-900hp+ On the new setup? Recent Dyno plot for anyone considering! The plateau is clutch slip, or it would probably have made a tad more. http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?319934-James-s-6266-CEA-SRD-Turbo-Kit-Dyno

He sold them dude, I did a Steve and dithered! Sorted via Lee now.

Think I may be sorted but bumping again just in case, as on a rapidly shortening timeline!

Hopefully it all goes well Alex, using a different bodyshop this time? So pleased you're binning those front wings! Now you're getting rid I guess it's safe to say the vents look like they've been drawn on by a kid with a marker pen.

Thanks for clarifying about the winter driving James. I was only basing my comments on pics you posted once mid winter (iirc, could be wrong!) of you washing it at a jetwash/garage thing, plus you mentioned it was your daily driver. . FWIW James your car is a very nice example, GLWTS. It will make the future owner ecstatic I'm sure!

So maybe £1500 for the work I mentioned? Depends who you got to do it ofc, buy agree there is an outlay of work I'd personally want to perform. VVTI makes no odds for me, with a modern turbo like a 6266 it would be spooling faster than you'd want it to anyway! Plus with aftermarket cams they rattle at idle annoyingly. Dash panels, imo a totally stock Pre-facelift dash with TRD gauges is the ultimate(again my personal choice), and I'm not a fan of that defi dash. I just have horrible visions of how the stock loom may have been cut up to fit it(maybe it uses it's own sensor loom, no experience with it) Basically we've proven nothing here as it comes down to personal taste haha!

I'm struggling with that comparison as well?! Is it the fact that it's facelift and vvti that's making people compare them? The colour? The cars have the same ECU, virtually exactly the same Turbo kit(par the turbo itself). This car has been serviced and looked after by Top Secret in Japan and has the history to prove. It also hasn't been driven through two salty scottish winters, and if the condition of the red car underneath is as good as the photos imply, then it's up there with the cleanest I've ever seen. Body-wise the paint may be better( James's has a fair few marks), or it may be worse(needs viewing as the pictures are crap). I'm also not taking a personal dig at James's car, just wondering where the 1000's of pounds to be spent come from? Personally, with a stock bonnet, the wheels repainted and facelift lights front and rear, the red car would be a stunner for me!

Long sold now! Yeah it is a nice clutch, tiny bit heavy, but worth putting up with as it retains the oem DMF so is perfectly quiet. Using it with a stock full face disc means it's nice and smooth with no engagement judder.

Just stole this still from a vid of the resto show at the NEC... Chatting bollocks about it no doubt This is march last year I think, shortly after I finished the single conversion.

Send the drawings to Reyland Racing. They may be able to machine an existing pattern disc blank into the right size and PCD for you.

Buy a proper NTK lambda from Syvecs and wire that in. I originally had the same setup as you, but the AEM gauge isn't really accurate enough or fast enough to do the job, hence I added the NTK into a spare bung on my downpipe and left the AEM as simply a nice dash ornament and a visual aid(I have no toucan).

I got mine running with a Basemap from Lee, did the initial configuration and assignments myself. Then had Ryan remotely tweak it on my driveway, to get it running well enough for me to drive it safely to the dyno. Ryan then remotely mapped it from Dubai. However, they do then need a certain amount of tweaking when driving on the road afterwards, this was done by Ash at SRD. Never underestimate the importance of this stage. It's that final 10% that makes all the difference to how nice the car is to drive. I'd be looking into renting a DYNO and flying someone over to you for 1-2 days to get it right.

I wish there was a 52mm syvecs gauge setup. I don't really want a big 'ol toucan on my dash, but as I want the info available I may be forced into it!