TheTurtleshead

This is getting weird now!

You need a knock sensor ideally. In addition to what you have I also run fuel pressure and oil temperature. You will need a fuel pressure sensor if you’re running more than one pump sequentially.

Doesn’t actually bother me I’d happily pay a tenner, I’m not even suggesting dropping the fee is a good idea, it’s just one for the brainstorm. I have noticed a trend of people coming on, asking why they can’t see ‘X’ section of the site and disappearing once they are told to fork out. Some people really are going to only want to come on for techhy information and never participate. Why not collate and index the technical stuff better and take these people’s money for access? Although to me, it does seem less people attempt to work on their own cars now? Maybe the wealth of how-to’s are no longer a draw?

Add yearly membership but knock it down to a fiver?

If I’ve got the spare dosh at the time I’ll come along Jake.

Cheers!

Picked up a C’s shifter, need to try it out see how I feel. Had a bad experience with a B&M one before so I am sceptical. However these are raved about frequently so I’ll give it a try

That little pipe drains the heater box of condensation.

-Put fresh oil in there to help stop the old stuff turning sludgy and depositing said sludge where it sits. Draining the oil I would have thought is asking for excess corrosion to occur inside the block if left for a long time. Ideally turn it over every few weeks to get oil round the system. I have heard of people filling engines to the brim with cheap oil to pickle them for long term storage after a rebuild, never tried it myself and expect it would leak out somewhere if you did that, or potentially fill the cylinders and then you’d have an issue when you tried to start it again. -Personally I’d drain the fuel as it goes stale over time and can leave nasty deposits in the tank/pump/lines etc. If you’re storing it in a container make sure you have a dehumidifier running, those things are moisture traps and will accelerate the rate of rusting. You want a dry, warm garage/shed with air circulation ideally.

Lemons to Lemans!

That supercharger looks like a bit of a beast! What sort of power can that acheieve? Also is that a manifold specifically for the 1uz? Looks neat!

Which car did you buy?

Haven’t updated this in ages... not much to report, but I’ve done a few bits! -Picked up an RMR Throttle body, couldn’t resist despite all the work I’d put into machining and making the previous throttle body to IC pipework. I had to make a new pipe and mess around with bosses for the PAS speed valve and the IAT sensor...but it was worth it, it looks ace and matches the manifold. -Made a new centre box to fit the new intake, with customary gold foil. -A friend turned up nice little strap to ensure the IC pipe doesn’t come off again like it did on DB. Thanks to Dom, I borrowed his Tig to weld on the mounting boss. -Also got a nurburgring lap in on DB, and nearly binned it! Got a cheeky pic with Mr. fitz under the sign.

I’ll have it if curious doesn’t.

I’m 25

You want a 60mm wastegate if using just one(with a tubular manifold). I’d also reccommend a proper tubular manifold a la Whifbitz or SRD. For your power goal a on a stock block I’d day go 6266 or equivalent turbo. You’ll make 620-ish ft/lbs on vpower maxed right out, more than enough to scare your stock rod bolts! AN8 fuel feed line and stock return, and one walbro 485 pump will be sufficient.

Save up for the manual or prepare to spend the rest of your ownership coming up with new and inventive ways to justify why you bought the inferior version....! Yup, that pretty much sums it up.

NGK Racing Plugs - Grade 9 for a single turbo.

Sounds like a fucked turbo to me!

May come along

How many two post lifts has it had on the roof?

Nice buy! You may find you need to cut and move the position of one of the wastegates as it fouls either the steering column/brake master. Jamie had to do the same with his VWR twin gate manifold on a RHD car.

Power steering idle-up valve. It uses two connections, one before and one after the throttle butterfly.

SRD manifold, well the early design that I have, has a quite similar off-beat noise to the RPS. Due to the runner length being quite uneven. PM me your mobile number I can send you some videos.