TheTurtleshead

Yes CCW LM20. Pop round for a cup of tea and a chat at some point if you want. Just drop me a PM

Indeed was me on my way to MOT!

In terms of body protection, I personally prefer the following strategy: -Full cavity wax treatment(Do not confuse with undersealing). This involves filling the body cavities with a thin oily product, it will penetrate the seams of the car and prevent moisture from entering and remaining where it can begin to corrode the metal. This is best undertaken with a quality product, some of my favourites these days are from the likes of rustbuster, dinitrol, bilt hamber(even waxoil is a half decent if old school product) This process should be repeated every 3-5 years as the product will drip/dry/run out, frequency depends on your driving habits/mileage. -If the car is extremely good fettle underneath, I would recommend it is cleaned carefully, then inspected with a bright LED lamp for any small areas which have the beginnings of surface corrosion. If there are any, you can then treat these small areas with a wire wheel and rust killing solution, use some zinc based primer/red oxide to seal. Then a 'thin' top coat of quality underseal of your choice. I like to use a product which stays slightly tacky/oily for life, and again -goes on thin! Don't plaster everything in thick horrible goo, it can hide the beginnings of rust for years and make it worse. At the end of the day nothing will stop a car rusting forever, you can only delay it by taking sensible steps. Just my 2 pence! Everyone has got a different opinion. A lot of the true 'survivor' classics I have seen(Which have not been stored in a shed or come from a desert climate), have remained in such condition because they were cavity waxed from new by the dealer. A common treatment was 'ziebart' back in the day, look for that on classic car adverts kids!

Well that's 3 of us in fareham then

Grey Supra in the Tesco car park, Fareham. Driver was getting annoyed at the till as my very drunk father in law was struggling to pay for our shopping

Is this for type approval? IIRC we don’t need one to import to the UK usually, as it’s over 10 years old, hence I don’t think you’ll have one. I think they are normally obtained direct from the manufacturer. I tried getting one out of Mazda before, it was a road to nowhere.

Fuckin A! 36mm disc like mine. Proper bad ass competition brakes. Love it. How many of the discs can you get? Can you message me details and prices please? Good opportunity to upgrade my discs as they’re 330mm at the moment.

I think Speedy cables can do it

Might have been me... I live near Portsmouth. Dave’s has gold 5 Spoke TE37’s... Mine has Fully polished CCW’s. Easiest way to tell them apart. Oh, mine’s also a lot faster! - - - Updated - - - Do I know you?

What a fucking waste of an Aristo!

Hammer seems to be on the money from what I can remember. Is it your old purple car? That went to holland didn't it?

Sounds like front wheel bearing, or the hub faces aren’t clean when you put the discs on.

Not me! I was in france.

Equally important is a good cavity waxing job. Stop it rusting where you can’t see it!

How/why did you modify the undertrays Mark?

It will be better, because you have the right diff ratio for the 6 speed. However it will never be good because it’s a 3 litre with a huge turbo and injectors?!

http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?301607-Moo-s-Widebody-Aerotop-Turbo-Manual-Build-Thread-CCW-s-!&highlight=Aerotop+moo Plenty of pics of my old car here, now owned by Ali.

Ford graphite grey from halfords is an almost perfect colour match.

Supra owners are massively spoilt when it comes to underbody condition, with so many of the cars here in the UK coming from Japan. I hopw that some of the owners here don’t ever buy an old british, american or even Japanese datsun that’s spent time in a wet climate - They wouldn’t be able to handle it! There isn’t really anything in those pictures of the underside that would put me off that car if I was looking for a black tt6.. It has minor surface rust, easily treated and slowed down if got at immediately. You’ll never stop a car rusting if you actually want to use it, entropy always wins, but you can severely slow it with some good products, properly applied. The far more important thing for me with supras is 1- to check for accident damage as they are easily crashed if not respected. 2 - Low mileage, to hopefully put off the high cost of expensive replacement items for a bit longer. I.e. turbos, suspension components, gearboxes... etc Especially as lots of parts are being discontinued and there may well be a wait before quality aftermarket items fill the void. Go have a good look. If you like the colour, it pulls well, doesn’t smoke, no hidden nasties or damage, then it’s surely straight onto the list of potentials! And when I say potentials... look at more than one car!!! I’ll add that yes you will find a totally mint car still from Japan or somewhere else with low mileage, but you may wait a very long time, it will cost you a premium and you may end up to compromising on spec or colour.

Bit of advice I learned the hard way! Make sure that thrust cone washer is the right way round. It centers the hub and stops vibration through the plates which can stop them releasing.... drove me mad once!

Not sure if you realise or not but trying to be helpful. You’ll need to unbolt the clutch cover again to fit the bearing carrier. Water lines etc look very neat! Hope it all goes smoothly for you

Will it be appearing on a dragonball once it’s done?

Simply excellent. Most people would have re-shelled that, well done for saving it. I hope he filled it to the brim withwaxoil and also that the rest of the underside was treated and undersealed as part of the process. It would be a crying shame if all that good work was undone by hidden nastiness elsewhere. Top work

Many thanks to Jake aka Ripped_fear for willingly standing outside all day yesterday(In shorts!) lending a steady hand whilst we changed he VSOS on my car. A nasty job, I’ve been putting it off for ages to save my poor back. Cheers bud, owe you one. I’d say making friends like that are worth £10 a year wouldn’t you?! [emoji6] Overhead valve-removing apparatus- The shorts-

Probably! I hated it because it was such an absolute arse to get into gear.