TheTurtleshead

If you run with no bov, my concern would be splitting the IC or popping pipes off all the time.

Mine below. I need to make up some ally ducting, but you get the idea of the mounts. I'm also going to make a little ally framed mesh guard to stop the stones getting to it. [/img]

Looks slow Dave...!

I've never removed my undertray to perform an oil change....! You can get at the filter all you need from above, and below via the transmission tunnel.

Those poor CCW's!!! I think you really need them finished in something other than polished dude. I don't really find them that difficult to look after tbh. A couple of hours every few months. Do you drive the car all through winter?

Stock oil cooler is pretty crap. With the extra load I'd run a decent -10 cooler. I have a 19row mocal cooler with a mocal thermostatic sandwhich plate. My oil pressures are as per stock, minimal loss. Personally i'd run one, especially with twins and the extra heat they load the oil and water systems with.

Just a lot of random updates really, a few things that I've made progress with. I've been too busy with my new job to devote much time to the beast other than drive it. It's SO awesome. It is a bit of a worry how quickly you can hit some silly speeds though. Need the brakes on next! Firstly some belated shots of the car on the Dyno.; Here is a piccy of the new fuel setup which I don't think I have posted yet. I had to change to a Walbro as the Bosch just wouldn't push the fuel vertically up out of a -8 AN line. If I'd left the stock non-return valve and feed line in it would have worked fine... Oh well c'est la vie! Note the provision for a second pump in the future should I decide I'm a total idiot and want more power; Here are a couple of shots showing the Racetech boost gauge I installed(Proper motorsport quality manual gauge). I didn't want to lose a dash vent or cut any holes in the dash, so I put it in a nice little subtle pod mounted to the bottom of the A-Pillar. Illumination is courtesy of a big blue 10mm LED to match the heckler heater controls; (Yes I am munching a maccys in the pic below. ) Next a long term project finally got completed... My engine bay boxes! Just need to decide what colour/finish to do them in now. Either wrinkle black, Painted Deep Jewel Green, Polished or Gloss black me thinks! Mock-up- Got a clear cam cover thing from eBay, so chopped my spark plug cover down to fit. Decided to wrinkle black it as I found a can knocking around. Came out half decent! Spotted the car in last months Japanese performance again. Being used to advertise a feature... Nice pic this. Finally, the wheels had not seem a polish since the classic motor show in November 2014. An hours cleaning with help from the GF had them looking ace again. The poorboys did it's job over winter!

Only just seen this... All I can say is, YAY!! I'll send you everything tomorrow night Ellis... Woop woop!

My car made 708fwhp on a 6266 Journal Gen 1. For that power I'd get a 6266 Gen 2 DBB.

If it won't... And you have an Aristo box for sale I moght be interested. Mine can be a tad clunky at times.

I was there all day on the PC stand dummy building a Mopar V8... Bit of a laugh!

What happened?!

Gen 1 Journal mate, but billet!... The lowest of the low Bosch 044's don't like pushing fuel vertically up a true -8 line with no non-return valve it seems! If I'd ket the stock feed it should have worked fine. Oh well!

I ran 7 grade iridium plugs when I was BPU. I'd personally go down the heat grade from a 6 to a 7... Everything does get a lot hotter @ BPU.

Buy an SRD manifold mate.. Lots of clearance for large turbos, and made for the precision range...! I have one and it's been faultless so far, and the quality is awesome!

Last ticket be mine...! Didn't realise stocks were getting so low!!

I am running a street max cover plate, with a stock driven plate and flywheel. The pedal is slightly heavier then stock, other than that it drives like stock. Great clutch imo!

Which nut mate? Do you mean the 6 sided section in the middle of the prop? If so, do not undo that! Just remove the two bolts from the centre prop bearing carrier(take note the spacers go above not below the mount), the 4 bolts on the front flange, and three of the bolts on one side of the rear rubber doughnut.

Pull the handbrake on! I'd get someone else to help. Big old heavy lump and you really don't want it falling off the jack onto you under the car. Just incase you don't realise, the clutch cover bolts need undoing and the cover sliding back into the bellhousing before the box comes out. It won't all clear the tunnel otherwise.

Specs below; On the road, full boost @ 3.2k rpm in 4th. Full torque by 4k rpm. Engine Type - Stock bottom end, 2JZ-GTE. Engine Spec - HKS 256/264 (In/Out) Cams Turbo - Precision PT6266 CEA with 1.0 divided housing Intercooler - HKS Type R 4" Fuel Used - V-power Nitro Injectors- Injector Dynamics 1000cc Fuel pump- Single Walbro 485 Exhaust - HKS Ti 4", 3" DP & MP Transmission - V160 & RPS Streetmax(Stock driven plate) ECU - Syvecs S6 Mapped By - 2barTuning Dyno Used - Devil developments (dyno dynamics) Power figure - 708hp on Vpower Torque figure - 640ft/lb on Vpower Boost Pressure - 1.7 bar

Your engine bay looks miles better than it did before boys! That blue was nasty!!

Looking at about 30 different setups, and not seeing anything that would make a difference on the street for me.

The moment Steve realised Lee was eating a Burger King inside his car.... Whilst doing a power run on the dyno

The baileys have an auto and a 6466 DBB Gen 2 turbo. Mine is a 6 Speed with a 6266 Gen 1 Journal.

Very proud of that dynograph above. Years of research and development by Lee, and lots of careful hours assembling it by me. This kit turned my car from a very nice street supra, into a weapon. Cannot recommend it enough!!