TheTurtleshead

Yo, well it got your attention lol! Well im hoping to run the car pretty close to standard at first, as I dont want to blow up the newly rebuilt engine. Been driving it for a few hundred miles before I even let the second turbo kick in Only realised this evening I was hitting thr fuel cut, when I really opened the taps Car is an NA-TT conversion....and my god do the turbos go! Im thinking maybe about 350 BHP is a good number to run at first whilst I get used to it. Forgot to mention im also running a FMIC. So reading around a bit more, If I make up a 2" restrictor ring, would that be a good size to start with? If its different from car to car then, im guessing theres a bit of trial and error involved

Somewhere above 1 bar, cant tell you what though, as the fuel cut comes in as soon as I hit 1

Car is now almost run in after engine build, so I gave it some gas today, and im hitting the fuel cut! My car is a 95 TT Manual, second decat and a blitz nur spec. Im thinking ill make up a restrictor ring tomorrow, just need to know what size hole to put in it to keep the boost to about 0.8/0.9 bar. Thank You in advance for ur answers!

Yerp it is red, were you in a supra?! Had to call the AA out in the end. He bled the system properly, and im lucky I spotted it quickly, as I have done no damage to the car. Managed to nurse it home at a solid 50 I have a brand new TT rad turning up in the morning. So that should cure it. It only overheated when tonking along at about 90, it had been fine before that.

The Rad cap may be a little suspect. Could air be entering the system through there and findin its way to the highest point in the system, I.E. The matrix pipes that way? The car is a jap import and was delimited when I bought it, where abouts would the delimiter be located? I could try removing it and see I suppose Any news on that TT Auto LSD mate?

Right, couple of things that are doing my head in; -Car dies when slowing to stop at junctions and clutching in. It is an instant death, doesnt splutter or cough. Only occurs when slowing from a decent speed. i.e. 40 or 50 and above. I have tried a different Idle Control Valve, and have cleaned it and its housing out thoroughly. I have also performed the 'Brake Cleaner' test around all of the engine vacuum pipes, and inspected them thoroughly. And I appear not to have any vacuum leaks. Car also starts up again straight away after it dies, and after restarting it will happily idle and move forward in traffic happily. ICV appears to work as when starting from cold it hold the revs high an brings them down slowly to an even idle. - Second issue is that after car has warmed up I have a nice hot heater for a few miles. Then suddenly the heater will go cold and refuse to produce hot air. The heater matrix was changed for a brand new oem one only a few months ago, and was fine for ages, until it just started doing this. If anyone can shed some light on either of these I would be eternally grateful, as im currently at a loss! Cheers.

Thought id take the sup on a nice long run over to bicester village near oxford, as part of its running in long story short, its a newly converted NA/TT, and I fitted a front mount with an NA radiator. Ran perfectly up until now, but now im kicking myself for not upgrading that rad Hope its ok, shut it off pretty quickly and stopped. Bugger it.

Sorry mate, I should have sent you PM not posted this publicly. I have unintentionally caused you some stick so ill apologise for that, and now ill attempt to clear it up. ill start by saying im very happy with the exhaust and the packaging was excellent. But I think you should have stated it didnt come with the bung. Also partly my fault for presuming it did. I only presumed so, as it is part of the whole package when new. I was only miffed mate as when I asked if it was included, albeit after it was dispatched(Afterthought on my part), you simply said no, you did not elaborate that you had it, so I presumed you didnt. And now it has appeared here for sale and has been snapped up by the everpresent Mr.P. I would have bought it off you if you had said. Anyway, doesnt really matter and lets say no more about it!

Ahem! Did ask you for this when I bought the Nur Spec itself mate! You said you didnt have it. Not getting the arse or anything, but should I be unimpressed?

Taking offers on the Following: -TT autobox, Will post pictures tomorrow evening. Came with the TT engine I Bought from Shervin. Engine was in excellent, running condition when removed, so I have no reason to doubt this is too. Comes with flex plate, Torque Convertor and cooling pipes. -N/A Engine, Sweet as a nut, came from my J-Spec Supra. Only removed it as I have now fitted a TT Engine. Is missing the plastic diagnostic plug cover. Bare engine, no Altenator/ PAS Pump/ Aircon Pump, They Will be advertised separately soon. -07515 667775 in the day, if you want to talk.

BUMP!!!!! Really need this!

As in title, need a speed sensor that works. Car is a J-Spec, dont know if it makes a difference! Thanks James

Bump ! Really need this, once the engine is rebuilt its the only part standing between me and TT power!

Had a squeaky clutch on mine, when the clutch was on its way out. Its the springs on the friction plate itself, they get a bit knackered and worn is all. Probs needs a new clutch!

As in title, PM me details and prices Please! -Also after a 3" 2nd decat pipe! Thanks James

Perform a diagnostic test mate. http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?35920-How-To-Check-the-diagnostics-codes Theres the link on how to do it!

Mine set me back 320 of my finest english pounds! Extortionate yes, and it doesnt come with O-rings. (From Toyota)

I literally just finished changing my matrix about 30 minutes ago....And trust me it was a total 'barsteward' of a job! Definitely dont use the car with your matrix leaking, It is positioned directly above your ECU in the heater box! Not good! Search out and have a good read of the how-to guide here on the forum, helped me loads, but be prepared to spend half the day doing it Good luck mate!