TheTurtleshead

Did you weld the holes up or just plonk it full of fibrofill?

Bump! Still need a set!

New gearbox wanker!!!!

The fabrication looks of excellent quality, as has all your other work you have previously posted. However, and I'm not trying to piss on your parade, but I'm unsure aluminium is the right material for such a safety critical component? That would certainly not be allowed in a race car where harnesses are mandatory. Think of the force that the mass of two big blokes would exert on that in the event of a sudden stop. As said I'm not here just to piss on your parade, but if you sell this to someone and it doesn't do it's job, someone could get badly hurt. Maybe an idea to get one tested? (Sorry if you already have, in that case please dis-regard this post)

Lol! Sorry Tom, don't worry though we'll find you a nice one!

Want!

Stock knock sensor? Post a pic.

Love it Jake!

Well thanks bud, praise indeed! I'm just a bloke in a shed though, anyone can do it if they want to

I have decided to stop being a fool and keep this car... Hurray! To be honest it made me pretty miserable advertising it for sale in the first place. I don't think I'll find a car this clean again, and I know I'd only start obsessing over owning a supra again about 5 minutes after it drove away.. so without further adieu, the next round of mods are; -I fully washed the underbody, undersealed and cavity waxed the car in the last two days. -I removed and sold the J-spec rear brakes and I am now searching for some UK rear brakes to compliment the AP racing front calipers. More has happened, more is planned, this will do as an update for now. First off I washed the underside, arches, subframe etc... Yes I literally rolled around under the car with a wash mitt, hose and bucket of soapy water. I reasoned that cleaning off all the dirt rather than underselling over it was the way to go for best prep. I then left the car to dry fully before proceeding. I stripped off the sill plates, sill trims, side pods, exhaust heat shields, exhaust.. etc.. Whatever I needed for access. (The marks on the inner rear sill is where the tyre touches... I heated and massaged this a tad with a panel hammer to give a bit more clearance.) I then cracked open the underseal(with added waxyoyl!) It's the stuff that stays slightly tacky and gooey, repelling water for as long as possible. I still need to put the car on a ramp to drop the subframe/petrol tank and finish the under-sealing in the places I couldn't reach... but it will do for now. Finally I cracked open the waxoyl and filled every box section, sill and chassis leg with waxy film. The supra is perfect for this as all the sections have holes and grommets in place to get the wax injection probe in, no need to drill any extra holes to spray into. It's obviously hard to picture the inside of a waxed up sill or box section but I have added a pic of the sill, rear arch join(inner to outer), and the inside of the front sill, so show the waxoyl layer.

As in the title. Don't need to be mint but working perfectly would be lovely! Ta.

Getting a little stop welded on the end would be best. If that's too much trouble. Drill a hole through the bar. Then slide a washer on and put a split pin through the hole, that would sort it.

Thermalarc 202 here. Brilliant little AC/DC 200 amp welder. By the time you have a pedal, gas, mask, etc It's going to be nudging 1 £1500-£1800 I think. Full support available by the manufacturer(victor technologies) via a retailer like united welding as well.

Lovely car I'd leave the skirts, oem look great. Interested in what a ceramic polish is when it's at home? Looks good whatever it is!

I'll either be working on a Jensen on the PC stand or working on the live stage, come say hi

I struggled to sell a brand new one for less money. Very nicely made exhaust, but it seems people don't often want a quiet one!

Damn kids and their child support! Do the need to eat? I mean really!

Get a phr water neck rotator? Swings it round by 70 degrees or so to clear. Just bolts on.

You must be bored Graham

Excellent

Clearly too many years of being around racing cars with big orange oil pressure warning lights for me! To be fair if either comes on you should be concerned. Surprising that the OP has had a problem with oil pressure on a pull. Was the car properly up to temperature and does it have a thermostatic sandwhich plate?

Having the same problem right now

The oil pressure light is orange. The oil level warning light is red? Sure it's that way round.

Awesome! Great introductory story

Like the wheels, looks mean! Not normally a fan of kits but that works. Number plate is factually incorrect though