Digsy

Sure its not the bearings in another component, maybe the PAS pump?

Those are the guys. However, this... ...needs to be taken with a massive pinch of salt. There are NO 12V water pumps out there that can flow anywhere near the same mass of coolant as a belt driven pump - especially against the backpressure of a U-flow cooling system on a long block and head like the 2JZ. So for me it's drag use only for something like this. Engines like the old BMW I6 diesels BMW 2.0 I4 and the new Volvo VEA I4 are designed with ultra-low backpressure cooling systems in both engine and vehicle specifically to make them compatible with their 12V electric water pumps.

Is it's JUST for drag racing you just need something to keep the coolant circulating and to prevent overheating due to heat soak afterwards, as even at full chat for a few seconds you won't put enough heat into the coolant to boil it. You will get some localised boiling in the head, but this isn't intended for massive durability so that shouldn't matter. One or two of the bigger Davies Craig pumps might do the trick as they have simple a 12V controls. There's another supplier that does bigger pumps but the name eludes me. Pierburg do proper OEM 12VDC pumps in 200W and 400W flavours, as used by BMW and Volvo but they are (as far as I know) designed to be controlled by CAN bus. I don't know if you can just wire them up to a supply and run them at 100% duty. You may want to put a large cooling fan on the rad too to maintain cooling airflow when you stop.

I believe Chris Wilson grinds his own if you know what thicknesses you need. Migth be worth dropping him a line.

On the fronts yes. On the rears you could paint the outside surface of the handbrake housing.

If you MUST paint them, then run them for a while and then paint ONLY the bit where the pad doesn't go and the bit that the wheel doesn't clamp on.

Well they are both mechanisms to improve low end torque, but the gains from a compound sequential system should be head and shoulders above what you would get from a ball bearing turbo.

Also doesn't having a compound sequential system really negate the need for ball bearing turbos? The quick spool should really be provided by a properly matched high pressure turbo. I agree it will help, but it seems a bit "belt and braces".

Good lord. That site needs to be closed down pronto!

"For spins and drifting". Should have guessed.

FWIW the oil system shouldn't leak regardless of how thick or thin the oil inside it is. My PAS rack developed a leak on the return side. There is a fitting on the rack which is a banjor with a short stub pipe covered in plastic. The pipe had corroded under the plastic and was constantly weeping. When I replaced it I cut off the plastic, scrubbed the pipe with a wire brush and there was a hole about the diameter of one bristle on the brush. I also once saw a weep from one end of the rack and even went as far as sourcing a 2nd hand rack whereupon it stopped and never started again!

No idea what Alloygators are but I used to buy tyres with a wheel rim protector built in that saved me a good few times when I was a bit careless when parking.

One word of warning: There have been a couple of instances reported where the tensioner hasn't moved very freely and the tensioner bolt has turned and then stripped. Go easy when you apply pressure to the tensioner.

Ah, I assumed the OP meant 0.6PSI (0.4 bar) above atmospheric, so 1.4 bar.

They cost peanuts. Just go to a Toyota dealer.

It's not ideal, but the coolant should actually not boil until it reaches nearly 120degrees if you are running a 50/50 mix, even with a 6psi cap. I'd replace it with an OEM one and see if the problem goes away.

Shame on you for dumbing down, then!

It doesn't work quite like that but, yeah, using the figures in your example it would reduce the power going to the motor by over 90%

u thort rong.

Check that when you turn the ignition key to the second position but BEFORE you crank that all the warning lights come on just in case you are getting a secondary warning light but the bulb is blown. IIRC it's not the MIL that illuminates when you have low brake fluid, anyway. It's the master warning triangle and the brake warning light. MIL usually indicates a problem with the engine, transmission or ECU but that should store a fault code.

I used to use Goodyear Eagle GSD3s on my NA until they became unavailable. Great tyres IMHO. They are still on BlackCircles.com but not sure about your size (I only had 17" wheels).

I had this on both front wings and my bonnet. Turns out that when JIC went round the car after importing it and fixed the stone chips at my request, instead of fixing each chip the actually gave the whole front end a pretty cheap and nasty blow over which looked great but only lasted a few years. I found it was far more cost effective to replace the bonnet and wings with good condition second hand parts bought on here than it would have been to get a respray done.

My NA had nearly 200,000 miles on it when I sold it. Daily driver, routine servicing only, according to the Toyota schedule.

Yes, that's the right way round :-) Reversion on the overlap is probably less of an issue on a blown engine where the in cylinder pressure might be higher than the pre-turbine pressure during the overlap. This might not be the case on, say, an I4 where the exhaust valve events overlap (assuming exhaust cams of greater than 180 degrees duration).

I would have thought that a bit of overlap was OK at the top end on a straight 6 engine with two 3-into-1 exhaust manifolds as the chance of reversion is low. If you can keep blowing down the cylinder against the pre-turbine pressure then you'll increase your cylinder fill and reduce trapped exhaust gas, which will reduce the likelihood of knock. The problem with doing this on port fueled engines is that you can end up chucking a lot of fuel straight into the exhaust as well.