Digsy

Maybe they routinely use a blowtorch to free up the crank pulley, after which it probably will "go" because they will damage the rubber element. TBH no place with a great reputation should be doing this. Also, I hate the term "full service" because there is simply no such thing for a Supra - or if there was it would cost an arm and a leg. There are two official services (A and B) and then many other items which get changed at irregular intervals. Find out exactly what they will inspect / change before deciding if the price is good or not.

The documentary about Burt Rutan's X-Prize winning Space Ship One. Well worth watching if you are into that kind of thing.

I know you are not in the UK, but these people ship worldwide (if their part will fit). http://www.balljointboots.co.uk/track-rod-end-boots.html

PM sent.

One last bump before I give up on this.

The part number on my EPC is the same for both engines 90910-02102 (bolt) and 90201-11018 (washer).

The part closest to the engine (large diameter part) is the bending damper, which is seperate from the hub (attached to the crankshaft) and the torsional damper (the bit that the belt runs on). Classic failure is for the torsional damper to come away from the hub, which as mentioned above is what looks like yours has done.

The other thing is have you noticed how amazingly far you fall if you forget to put the seat down? Anyway, the conversion is done, and withouth going into details its passed all the tests I can throw at it Take that, Anglian Water!

Skip over this if I'm teaching you to suck eggs, but you could have a look at the standard equations for temperature and pressure correction for power. This will allow you to asses what the various standarsd agencies (DIN, ISO, SAE and JIS) consider to be the variation of power with atmospheric conditions, so you can do some simple modelling of what the power (and hence torque) variation through the transmission might be without resorting to complex performance simulation. I did a quick Google and found the equations in this article. I've voted yes, because I know that cooler air results (in theory) in more available oxygen to burn and also negatively affects the tyres grip on the road. However. the temperature terms in the DIN and SAE equations suggest a correction factor of about +3.6% for a 20 degree drop in temperature, which is a significant amount, but whether or not this is enough to always make you break traction kind of implies that you are almost always within about 4% of the limit of grip which doesn't sound very likely to me. Its also a big temperature drop. I would speculate that 20 degrees off your tyre temperature would have a bigger affect than 3.6% more torque. For engines today you might need to take into account that a modern torque-based ECU might not care one jot what the ambient conditons are, as it will turn the pedal positon into a torque demand that it should satisfy without "overshooting" the mark, as it were, so you might not have to design in a torque overhead to account for variations in atmospheric conditions.

I'm well into this job now. Got a kit with a dual flush with adjustable small and bog flushes so hopefully it'll do the trick once its installed, so no bricks necessary . One thing that amazed me is considering how tiny the new gubbins is compared to the old fashioned fill valve and flush, its all been designed so that it cunningly only just fits even inside my gargantuan cystern. The other thing that amazed me even more was the sheer amount of limescale that I had to chip away before I could start to reassemble things. The cystern probably holds an extra litre of water now! Anyway, due to the connection spigot on the fill valve being 5mm longer than the old one, and the filler plumbing being all solid pipework I now have to make up a spacer so that the fill valve sits at the right height (I doubt I could cut 5mm off the spigot squarely enough). Hence tonight I have no flushing toilet, which could be an issue as I have a curry in the oven for dinner

Hmmm.. It'll be quiet over the bank holiday, too...

Its probably a popular mod with drifters because they spend a lot of time at max revs on close to full lock - hence the HPAS will be a big drag on the engine. If you are not planning to do this then it sounds like a lot of hassle for very little gain as the load on the PAS pump will be very small when you are driving in, or close to, a straight line.

Thing is, I recently fitted a modern toilet in my ex girlfriend's house and that came with a dual flush but its great - you almost never needed to use the *ahem* "big" flush at all, plus the cystern refilled really quickly and quietly, whereas mine takes ages. I think I probably need a new fill valve, too. I'm wondering if there will be any issues in fitting a modern valve to an older toilet.

Very funny. Verrrrrry funny!

Yeah, or I was thinking that I could try one of those things that you put in the cystern to displace the water, too. I measured it tonight and I reckon it holds about 12 litres. Its very tempting to do something. I think modern toilets flush using half that amount.

Already checked these ones out.

My circa 1996 built house unsurprisingly has a circa 1996 toilet with a single flush action which completely empties the cystern every time (approx 10 litres?). What with all the recent talk of hosepipe bans and water shortages, I can see water being the next "thing" that we get clobbered on for household bills. The amount of water I literally pour down the toilet bothers me, so I have been looking into retrofitting a dual flush valve (universal fit kits seem pretty easy to find for about £20). The only thing I am worried about is that more modern toilets are designed differently so that it is easier to flush them using much less water. I don't want to go to the bother of fitting one of these only to be confronted with floaters. Has anyone fitted one of these kits and had good (or otherwise) experiences with them?

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I urgently need an unblemished 199 colour driver's side door. I'd be happy to accept a bare door skin as I can transfer all the internals over myself but most importantly the door skin must be in good condition. I have managed to track down and eliminate a couple of opportunities from parts in the for sale threads (apart from hackinnbashin who has one for sale but isn't answering my messages for some reason). If anyone has one of these that they don't need kicking about (I mean carefully stored) please get in touch. Regards,

Been looking forward to Iron Sky for a few weeks now. Is the official release date 20th April?

ON the couple of times I've been to Japan my hotels have had these hi tech toilets. No idea how they do it given the range of body shapes and sizes but the targetting for the little water spray is quite amazing.

To be fair AVForums is roughly ten times the size of this one in terms of active members and I know the mods there rule with a rod of iron. Our rules are our rules, their rules are their rules.

You could check the brakes haven't siezed and are binding on. I seized three out of my four calipers over winter last year (not all at the same time) and it knocked a fair bit off my mpg until I changed them out.

Even if the other reasons for failing are a bit iffy, the "wrong lane in a aroundabout" thing should be easy to confirm or refute. Just get her to take you to the roundabout, show you which lane she was in and then you will know if the instructor / examiner are trying it on or not. I don't know if you can lodge an appeal or anything, but at least you could try to get someone different next time.

Could be the master cylinder leaking internally? How much "fun" were you having? Sure you havn't just cooked the brakes?