Digsy

Sorry, Rob. I didn't know you were waiting for a reply from me... Abbey did a great job, but it cost me more than it would have here in Norfolk, but there you go. Then again they are a Toyota dealer and should have no excuse for not being able to get the pulley off. I concur with Ash. Grab your car and run away!!!

Do you know exactly *how* your car has been delimited? Blitz / HKS SLD? Other "clamped" speed signal into ECU (a'la new PB unit)? 5/8 divided speed signal into ECU (a'la JIC)? Seems like too much of a coincidence that it is happening at about 180kph for it *not* to be something to do with the delimiter.

Chatting with all your mates again, Alex? ;-) I believe that the venerable Mr. Betts' website shows the ECU connector where the speed signal goes in - for at least one of the wires anyway.

If its shims then its a case of measuring the valve clearances and buying the appropriate shim kit to adjust it to the blueprint figure (whatever that is). Your local Toyota dealer should have the part numbers for the appropriate kits. Does anyone know if this forms part of any of the major services? Methinks not...

As I found out to my eternal embarrasment after posting a description of the operation of hyrdaulic tappets - the tappets on the Supra are not oil-filled. There must be another form of lash-adjustment under the camcover. Possibly shims. Valve clearance adjustment on my old inline six BMW was only £50 at a main dealer.

(a) The connector adapter they are talking about will fit into the ISO block behind the stock stereo - but be careful because from what I know about the Supra stereo wiring from Paul Booth this will not drive the slave amp. It will drive all 6 speakers directly. If that is what you want to do then the Halfords one is fine for it. It even carries the dash illumination dimmer for when you turn your lights on. (b) Some stereos come with one already in the box and you fit it if you need to.

> I think your right about the stereo - i could fit it myself, and I do own a drill to re-drill > some holes so it will fit, I'd want a removable front panel - so i'd mount it in front of > the dash me-thinks! Well, Dean (aka Rolec) and I have exaclty the same unit and it has a removable front panel. We just chose two different ways to skin that particular cat... > My main concerns are the boost guages (i cannot find an > LED one rather than a dial) and turbo timer installs.... > and.....eventually - probably next year the RaceLogic T/C. One for the group, this. Apart from the range they record, are BPG's anything special? Would a digital pressure guage from, say, RS or Maplin do the same thing? Might be easier to find one with a digital display from there. > Just the simple things as well, like if i put the turbo timer below the stereo - will > it overheat? how do I actually physically put it there DRILL? GLUE? Blue-Tac?!!?? > and*embarassed question* if i get a blanking plate, how do i effectively cut the > plastic!?!?! With Scissors? Its actually quite roomy behind the dash - especially with e single DIN unit fitted in the top bay. There should be plenty of room there. With the bottom stereo bay vacated, you will also have a selection of mounting holes to choose from in the stock bracket. If not, there is no shame in buying a *good quality* double sided adhesive foam or velcro pad and sticking it in! You can cut any shaped holeI by carefully marking it out and the using a small drill to go around the inside of the profile. Then file out the lumpy bits. If whatever you are mounting has a bezel that mounts from the front you can be a little bit less fussy. If you just need to cut a big round hole you can buy hole cutters from Homebase. Try to use a drill with a soft start trigger, plastic can grab the drill bit when it bites!

Hi Tony, Your best starting place would be a chat with Mr. Rolec because e has already fitted a single DIN unit with a blanking plate holding his boost guage beneath it. I have also fitted one in a slightly different way but with a cubby hole under it. If you mount the stereo facia behind the dash panel (a'la Rolec) you will possibly need to mod the stereo surround slightly. If you mount it in front of the dash panel (a'la me) you will need to file out the hole in the dash so that the front panel of the stereo pokes through. Depending on the stereo, it may be pre-tapped in the chassis sides and pick straight up on the screw holes in the stock brackets. I had to re-drill my brackets to allow the stereo to sit 10mm further forward then normal. I got my cubby hole from the same place that I got my stereo. It picks straight up on the stock brackets and sits neatly behind the dash panel. I have not seen one with my own eyes, but you should be able to get a blanking plate that will do the same. Rolec's is a Blitz part (I think) but Halfords carry a bewildering array of cubby holes and panels. It shouldn't be too hard to find one to fit. I don't know jack about turbo timers and boost guages (apart from knowing what they are of course) but as for your other questions: a) no idea how to fit it Yes you do! At least for the stereo, anyway. The mechanics of fitting a single DIN unit into the dash are well known to the group. I think Paul Booth had an aftermarket stereo wired up to the stock amp and sub, too. b) no idea of the "best" / "worst" of the "stuff" (I'd prefer a sony headunit but are they the best? ) I like Sony for domestic stuff but for in car I prefer the best I can afford. I have Kenwood right now, but I agree with Flip, Alpine seem to be the daddies. c) where to get it Try the Yellow pages for a decent ICE supplier. I'm sure SHOP! will sell the other bits. d) who can fit it You can! You really can! e) dimensions of said "stuff" to see if it all fits in ! The stereo stuff is standard apart from the fact that while the body size of two single DIN units stacked on top of each other may be the same as a double DIN slot, the actual installed size may be larger because of the trim surround that some stereos have around their front edges (this is why Rolec had to trim his surround, whereas I staggered the top and bottom units). NOTE: the hole in the dash panel is smaller than a double DIN sized body. f) what to do if it doesnt work :-( Well, if you fitted it yourself, go and have a stiff drink. If you get someone else to fit it, take it back and insert it into an orifice which will cause them the maximum discomfort until they get it right. Problem is that 99% of the installers out there (not aimed at anyone in particular, OK???) won't take the trouble to do a decent install by sitting back and thinking about the best solution. They will probbaly have a half decent solution that satisfies most of the people most of the time, and deal with the fussy ones as and when they come along. I'm sure there is enough knowledge in the BBS to empower you to fit it yourself. HTH

I think they work by clamping together a couple of coils together, thereby shortening the free length of the spring and lowering your car for that girly-knicker-elastic-snapping racey look. However: your car will still weigh the same and be damped the same, and most importantly, the spring rate (the number of Newtons' force required to further compress the spring by a set amount) will be the same. Therefore your car will still bounce up and down the same and the spring will still have to do the same work but using less working coils. The net result is an increase in the stresses in the spring and a reduced fatigue life (bad thing). Also, since you are using a shorter spring of the same rate there is a possibilty that you will hit the bump stops more frequently (bad thing). Finally, your springs and dampers will no longer be working together because the spring characteristics have changed, so your car will probably handle worse than before (very bad thing). (Edited by Darren Blake at 2:51 pm on Oct. 23, 2001)

It could be a mega, mega cheapo speedo conversion using a simple sticker which covers the whole dial. I have heard tell of such things. Even so, it should go up to at least 120MPH (180KPH = 111.8MPH)

Okay I just read the above post. Looks like we posted at the same time. (Darren backs towards the saloon door. Looks like there's-a gonna be a gunfight in here!)

Paul, Didn't you just get the HKS SLD instructions translated...?

I fitted my reversing sensors at the weekend without doing thousands of pounds worth of damage to my rear bumper moulding. It works fine except the standard beeper which lets you know you are in reverse is masking the beeper that lets you know you are about to hit something. Before I go on a beeper-hunt, does anyone know where this annoying little item may be found?

Its also a bit of a guess. Might seems a tad over the top, but then again - these are wheels we are talking about. Don't want them to revert back to their component parts again halfway around a corner!! Good luck.

No-one talking to you, Alex?? ;-) This is a stab in the dark, but I would assume you would need... For dissassembly: Tyres off. The right sized driver for the rim screws. Possibly something to help release them if they are threadlocked in. A tap to clean out the rim screw threads. Some kind of surface cleaner to remove the old rim sealant. For assembly: A decent rim sealant (see Ash's thread for more details). Surface activator for said sealant, if required. The correct tightening torque / sequence for the rim screws. Threadlock for rim screws, if required. Some spare screws in case any got damaged during dissassembly. The data sheet for the sealant / threadlock so you know the skinover / cure times. Tyres on. Inflate & balance. Did I miss anything?

Toyota usually tell me that the schedule is AABAAB, but since there is an obvious difference between the two As, I don't know why they don't just call it ABCABC (like my old MR2 was). It took me several phone calls to cotton onto the fact that actually almost all the prices for the individual services are different, and you really have to state the mileage. Your quote sounds like it may be for the 54000mile (B) service. Its a tad high for the next service at 63000miles, but then again I don't know what your labour rates are like. I paid about £200 for my cambelt replacement by Abbey Toyota in Surrey. They only cost £160 over here...

Here they are: Mileage UK Spec J-Spec (assuming same labour hours / rate) 27000 (b) £241.42 £241.08 36000 (a) £208.59 £219.79 45000 (a) £121.95 £142.24 54000 (b) £344.83 £365.87 63000 (a) £179.71 £142.24 72000 (a) £208.59 £219.79 Bit of an a*se, this. I just realised that I got these prices from two different local Toyota dealers. The UK spec prices come from Richard Nash in Norwich, and the J-spec prices which were worked out especially come from Gooch Motors in Lowestoft. There also seems to be some disagreement betwen the two over the (a) service at 63000miles. Still, it's a fairly good indication that (labour rates aside) the parts side of the servicing makes little real difference between UK and J-spec.

I did put up a list of prices based on a UK spec car. I have since found out (through getting my cambelt changed by Abbey Toyota through JIC) that us Naaaaaaarrrrrrrrrrrfolk dwellers are heavily compensated for mud on the roads, inadequate nightlife, and no street lighting by having very low service charges for our cars compared to some of you city folk. The prices based on using J-spec parts is new-information, however. I'll try to remmeber to post the comparison tonight.

Well at least that squares with what both my local Toyota dealers told me: 6000miles up to 1994my, 9000miles afterwards. Incidentally, Gooch Motors (Lustaaaarrrrrrrft) were *very* kind and priced up a full range or services from 27000 to 72000 miles using J-spec parts. The results were all within about £20 of the UK service prices, assuming labour to be comparible, also.

Okay, some clarification required here... Paul: what model year is your car? Anyone: Are J-spec services 6000miles right across the board, or did they too change in 1994 (or 1996)?

That's the link I was trying to find. Cheers Martin. The B schedule has 12000km (7456 mile) intervals, whereas the A schedule (trailer towing, taxiing, etc.) has 6000km intervals. But that will be for a US spec car, right?

Technically there is nothing wrong with using a silicone based sealant, provided it meets the environmental and mechanical requirements of the joint. I would be gobsmacked if a serious wheel manufacturer was *really* using bathroom-grade stuff, but I suppose stranger things have happened. Whatever the reason it sounds like the sealant Ash's wheels is clearly not up to the job for one reason or another. Ash, if you want to take the rims apart and rebuild them, I'm sure that somebody at Threebond or Loctite (both of which have excellent Technical Sales departments) could recommend an alternative RTV product to use instead. They will also fax out product specification sheets upon request. Loctite: 01707 821000 Threebond: 01908 320325 PS: Tip of the day. If you do squirt silicone based sealant around your car, keep it away from the engine, because it will fug up your O2 sensors quicker than anything if a sniff of it gets into the exhaust system.

Ah, yes. Should have remembered that...but I think the change from 6000 to 9000 miles was as early as 1994 model year, not 1996 (facelift). But I could be wrong. Very possibly.

Are they not the same as for the UK spec, at 9000 mile intervals? I'm guessing you have seen something which suggests otherwise, or you wouldn't be asking? I'm working to 9000 mile intervals unless I hear otherwise, so this thread could turn out to be interesting. None of the Toyota dealers I have spoken to say anything about a different service interval, but I have seen stuff on other sites (and I too have lost the link) that says the US interval is shorter (about 7500 miles..?) This, I think, is more down to differences in environment and duty cycle than differences in the engine itself. In the absence of any other information I would still feel safe in sticking to the 9000 miles interval, as per UK spec for "normal" driving.

Of course it's the slave amp - I didn't mean to sound as if I was disagreeing with anyone. :-)However I just wanted to point out that there could be alternatives. My box also matches that description, but is *definitely* not the slave amp, or a fish for that matter.