Digsy

I run stock Toyota platinum plugs in my NA with no problems. I even use 95 RON fuel.

Does anyone have the Toyota part numbers for these? I tried using EPC but there are several different types and I'm not sure which is which. I would be interested in the flat back style that goes in the switches, and the "normal" ones that go in the back of the speedo.

No "stick" intended Ian! Just illustrating that running lean will break an engine. I don't think anyone here would say it was your fault for a second. Probably scarier that it can happen without too much warning.

If he measured your runout, maybe you could ask him what is actually was? Something doesn't sound right here...

Sticking piston if you have UK brakes or a sticking slider pin on J-spec (I would imagine).

There was a thread of Mycroftian proportions about brake runout a few months back. Its the measurement of how far away from true flat (i.e. warped or worn) your brake disc is. There's limits specified for it in the service book. Although how a worn pad could be causing this, and then how it could be rectified without fitting new discs I can't explain! Maybe it was the mechanic getting his terms muddled up?

Det is more like a "tinkling" noise (unless it gets really bad). It can be caused by high combustion temperatures, high cylinder pressures, and a lean mixture. And if you do it for a long time, you WILL trash your car. Won't he, Ian?

Wouldn't that give blue smoke on every start up, not just the cold ones?

Are you absolutely certain its smoke and not steam?

Cheers, Ian. Thats what I'm looking for. Do you know the pins, or should I dig through MKIV.com?

Teabreak quickie: Is there any way to plug something into the diagnostic port that will tell me what gear my all-knowing autobox ECU has selected, in real-time while I am driving? TIA,

Sorry, I was away from my MKIV.com wiring diagrams today. Glad you found them alright.

In the circuit diagram on MKIV.com the "parking lights" are connected to the green wire that also runs to the tail lights. It looks like they come on with the rest of the lights. I'm not sure if this wire is green on J-spec cars... I dont know what the el2 meter system does but maybe it needs night time illumination? If your car is right hand drive the the wiring for just about anything can be pcked up in the footwell. +12v, 0V and a light feed can also be found near the stereo. To T into the wires bare about 10mm using a stanley knife taking care not to cut the copper itself, twist the strands up a little, bare the same amount of your flying lead and wind it round the bared copper. Apply a little solder and hey presto! HTH

Not that I have a facelift car, or claim to know much about them or anything, but this excerpt from the pre-facelift wiring diagram might be helpful, as some of the wiring colours seem to be the same as you describe...

DOH!!! Must read posts more carefully in future. Must read posts more carefully in future. Must read posts more carefully in future. Must read posts more carefully in future. Must read posts more carefully in future. Must read posts more carefully in future. Must read posts more carefully in future.

If its the same as the US spec then the LED brake light (even if you had one) isn't connected to the light fail sensor. Again, if its the same as US spec, the tail lights "proper" are fed from the bulb fail unit by red wires with a white stripe, and the LED is fed by a green wire with a white stripe. All the earths are white with a black stripe. The connector you desrcibe certainly sounds like the LED feed, but there should be 12V between the pins when you press the pedal because its a permanent feed and there are no other switches / relays in the way. As for your warning lamp being on, has one of your stop lights been converted to a rear foglamp? This will probably confuse the bulb fail box and cause it to light up the warning on the dash. Edit: The number plate lights also seem to be connected to the bulb fail box. Did you check those too?

Just because I have been researching this recently (don't ask me why), the UK and J-spec dial faces have different illuminated legends for TC. The UK one just says "TRC" Has anyone done any wiring behind your dash? When I first started trying to use dash lamps for "other things" I got fairly proficient at creating dimly lit blubs in the instrument panel.

If they are anything like washer pumps then I dont think they are designed for continuous running, especially when there is no fluid going through them. I've only had one of them out on a bench to play with and I know it got very hot quite quickly when I was buzzing it up dry.

It could have been "twit" or even "toot". You never know whats behind those **'s.

Who remembers the "locking wheelnuts" thread?

Ah. Just read the "vulture" thread in For Sale. Guess you have other priorities now! Bummer.

Sorry for the late reply! I've not been able to surf the BBS at work today. Drop me a PM if you want the Norfolk dealer's rundown, or have a look around using the search function. I bang on about it all the time!

Alex, I must admit that I've not been following this thread too closely, but are you trying to get the J-spec water pump, or a UK-spec part? I don't even know if they are the same, but maybe your dealer is playing up the "import" thing with the lead time on your water pump... Just a thought! (Euro spec water pump assembly part number looks like 16100-49845)

If you fancy a day out, you're within striking distance of Norfolk - the cheap Supra Servicing capital of England.

Warped disc? Sh*gged damper? (wheel skipping on the road rather than gripping under braking). Does the frequency of the knocking change with speed?