Digsy

Any idea what kind of delimeter you have? The HKS one for the auto box has a gazillion wires (well, about 16 actually). Access to the wiring diagrams on MKIV.com, plus experience with a soldering iron should be all that's required.

1. I need to get hold of a Toyota Supra manual. Where's best to get one from? Toyota say they can't even get one for a 1999 Supra... The handbook is also a good place to start if you don't have one. These are freely available from Toyota, but will refer to a UK spec car. 6. How often should the car be tuned? 7. I've heard that the service interval is 6,000 miles or 12 months - is this correct? The "by the book" service interval for your car is every 6000 miles or 12 months. The whole schedule changed in 1994 to 9000 miles AABAAB. Beware: although Toyota calls them A and B services, every service is different. Again, the handbook will have details. At least one BBS member is running a 1993 car on the 1994 schedule with no problems. Most TT owners also add at least an oil and filter change at 4500 miles, which seems like a good idea to me. 8. The SVA place did a meagre job on the speedo conversion. I'm getting the sorted (+ derestriction soon) but I'm concerned that the Odometer is now reading miles BUT started with KM on the clock (meaning I've gained an extra 20,000 miles). Are there places that can reprogram the odometer properly? There must be three or four current threads about this. There seems to be a spate of botched speedo / odo conversions going on. Have a read or search in the Technical forum and see what you turn up. 11. Anything else I should know about?! Watch the back end!!

My advice (all in my most humble opinion) would be to sort the speedo but leave the odo be. Get a stock dial face (or look under yours to see if the stock one is still there), get a Pete Bett's box of tricks and feed the modded signal to the speedo only at first. Then you can also splice into the feeds to the other speed signal dependant systems on the car as required. If you mod the odo first, then ALL systems on the car will get the modded signal, whether they want it or not. Also, leaving the odo reading in km will sound a lot less "dodgy" when you come to sell the car, because the new owner wont have to do any hard sums to work out the true mileage.

There's nothing wrong with VVTi, but as someone said above most of the tuning kit already available for the Supra will not talk to the VVTi electronics. As a technology, VVTi is well and truly here to stay. There is a tremendous amount of research effort going into it, and related technologies.

Sorry. I thought VVTi was part of the '96 facelift. I'll change my original statement to "a non-VVTi twin turbo".

Pay no attention to them, Mr. D. NAs are great cars too, but a bit limited for DIY upgrades. You'll find that everyone on the BBS, whether they own a TT or NA will be glad to help you out.

Hey, I have an NA too Of course you can do anything to an engine within budgetary constraints. You could make it rev to a gazzilion RPM, and give it an intake and exhaust and valvetrain to makse sure it can breathe. You can also bolt on a fuel system than can take advantage of all that extra air, and an EMS to make sure it all works. Plus a bottom end thats strong enough not to put a leg out of bed but light enough to rev, and a lube and cooling system that will make sure it wont all seize up. Then you could connect it to a transmission and final drive that are geared for the engine RPM and strong enough to take all the extra power. But I bet the budget to do all that, plus what you could sell your NA for would buy a bl00dy lovely TT!

Hi there and welcome. Apart from a decent aftermarket exhaust and a decat, I think your upgrade options are pretty limited on an NA. General wisdom on Supras is: If you are a power junkie or keen on upgrading, get a pre-1996 twin turbo.

Well if you have a speedo face that reads up to 180mph then you will already have a converter, albeit probably not wired in correctly, hence the light show at 70mph plus. You can use the same box of tricks to do the delimiting (can you get above 112mph???) but it only really works on a manual, since the auto box gets confused by the modified speed signal. To delimit an auto you need Pete's box of tricks (or you could spend close to £200 for an HKS part with instructions in Japanese). Depending on what you have already, you can have two boxes to do both jobs, or both in one.

For your further info, Mark, this is Dean, our smart @rse moderator.

No probs. Pete Betts is the Jedi Master on speedo conversions and their associated foibles. He also makes his own brand of speedo converter and speed delimiter and can supply details on how to wire them in properly. It would be really good if I could remember the URL for his website (TRL Performance). I'm sure there is a link to it from the mkivsupra.net main site.

Hi Mark and welcome aboard. 99.99999999999999% certain you have a botched speed signal conversion. Use the SEARCH function on this BBS. Its probably the most often discussed problem. You won't have to re-mortgage to get it fixed. Chill!

Rob, is your car from JIC by any chance? I was amazed that they took the rear foglamp feed off the dash illumination, wired direct with no relay.

Isn't the only (albeit major) difference between J and UK the way it determines the mass of air flowing into the engine? One uses a direct MAF meter (UK?) and the other uses speed/density (J?).

Has anyone worked out why Toyota did this? It seems like a hell of a change to make just for selling in different markets.

I think its 103Nm. Someone with a handbook handy should be able to verify. I use it on my non-stock alloys. Beware of tyre-monkeys with pneumatic wrenches! They go up to much more than this. I once had to get a guy with a meter long breaker bar to loosen my nuts (oo-er) after I had my tyres changed.

I had this problem on a BMW for three years and it was never anything more than annoying (it was annoying though. It'll be a few hours under your car to split the transmission from the engine and replace the release bearing if you do it yourself, but provede you can get access it should be doable as a DIY job. If you can get your car over a pit or onto a ramp it will help. The release bearing itself shouldn't be too pricey, but if you go to a main dealer the labour will be a killer: Upwards of £50 per hour. Luckily realease bearings are much-of-a-muchness, so getting an independant garage to do it shouldn't cause them too much of a headache. HTH.

Euro spec part number 88650-14270 J-spec part numbers: 08/1995 to 05/1996: 88650-14271 05/1996 onwards: 88650-14272 Not sure if I'm reading it right, however. If you search for p/n 14271 it brings up 14272. Anyway it looks like there are a few different types

Sorry to cause you distress, Flip. I think someone kerbed it during the upload.

Therapy I think.

Ahem, if I could have everyone's attention for a second please? I'd just like to put in my claim for the most pointless modification to be made to a MKIV Supra so far this year. My 6-month quest to "do something about my JIC rear foglamp" is at last over. The whole job entailled: Taking the feed from the main power supply / fuse box, from the wire that feeds all the other lights. The feed is now via its own fuse and relay, mounted in the footwell. Wiring in the proper MKIV foglamp switch. Earthing this correctly took two diodes, and splicing into the correct wire under the steering column. I also had to hand-make a plastic bezel for the switch cutout. Swapping my J-spec tail lamps for GavinL's "garage clearout" ones. Downloading ALL the wiring diagrams from MKIV.com. Modding both tail light connectors to include the sixth pin for the foglamps, so the UK spec ones just plug straight in. And the piece de resistence: Modding a spare fuel / temp dial face (courtesy of Wilfman) to include the fog lamp indicator - shame on those who said it couldn't be done! This also required modding the flexi-pcb on the back of the instrument cluster, and adding an extra pin into one of the instrument cluster connectors to earth the bulb. I just wanted you all to assess my level of anal retention It started out as a five minute job and sort of snowballed.... ...and I don't even use my rear fogs. Even when it is foggy.

The location of the fuse boxes and the functions of the individual fuses are in the Supra handbook. However, even with the handbook I couldn't find the damn thing in the footwell, and had to ask in here where it was.

That's all the rage round my way, too.

In theory, yes. But remember to adjust the profile to keep the same sidewall hieght and rolling radius. In case its important, I have J-spec suspension and 17" wheels. When it came across the water, my three-spokes were encased in very very poor quality Japanese domestic rubber, and the ride was very crash-bang. After a few months when the tyres started cracking up I changed the fronts for Goodyear F1s and the ride and handling was considerably better. When I had my wheels refurbed and I changed the rears for Yoko AVS it was like a different car. I'm not saying that Yokos are better than Goodyears - I'm saying that good quality rubber made up for a lot of the poor ride I had on low-spec tyres.

According to some tyre info I have kicking around: The "J" wheel rim standard means that you can fit up to 0.5" less to 1.5" more than the standard bead width. I think the bead widths for the 16" wheel are 8" front and 9" rear (17"s are 8" front and 9.5" rear - from the "Features" page). The bead width is typically 10mm less than the tread width so the fattest tyre you could put on a 16" rear would be: Max bead width = 9" + 1.5" = 10.5" (267mm) Max tread width (approx) = 267mm + 10mm = 277mm Nearest tyre size = 275mm Plus you will need to adjust the sidewall height to maintain the rolling radius. Standard tyre sidewall = 245mm x 50% = 122.5mm New profile = 122.5mm / 275mm = 0.45 = 45% So in this case you should be able to fit 275x45x16 to a rear rim. *Disclaimer* I know diddly squat jack sh*t about tyres. All this is just maths than I happen to have on a data sheet. I have no idea what putting these fatter tyres on your car will do to its handling.