Digsy

Sorry to be blunt but I'd take it back and stick it up the dealer's @r5e. What's the point in buying a car that you then have to spend a four figure sum on to get in condition? You may as well put the extra money into getting a more reliable car. IMHO of course.

I beileve that UK cars are speed limited. 155mph is the usual figure at the wheels but you can expect the speedo to become more and more optimistic the faster you go.

If the importer or previous owner has converted one pair of brake lights into fog lamps, then this light will be on all the while. I have UK tail lights fitted to my J-spec, and I have had to remove this bulb.

Deep breaths, Martin.

'kin hell, I'm on form tonight. Yes, they are the same if they are both 6 speeds. The pre-04/95 5 speed has a different flywheel.

...or this even.

Doesn't look like it fron this.

Get a 1.5v AA cell battery and wire it up in series Only kidding. Actually, I reckon when the motor is running you will be putting about 13.5V through your car anyway. Car electrics=12V is a bit of an over simplification AFAIK.

Which Darren?

These are the only J-spec rad numbers I can pull up. Probably not much help but it may give you a starter for ten.

If they are held in by all three fixings, I reckon taking the headlights out would be easiest so you can get at them directly from above.

Can't speak for the front bumper, but I've had my passenger side headlight assembly out. Two screws and two nuts if memory serves. Easy.

Don't take the wheel off, have a good tyre shop adjust the "straight ahead" wheel position by altering the track rod ends by equal amounts on each side (if there is enough adjustment left in them).

Always nice to see another set of Advans on the BBS

Yep. 1 US gallon = 3.79 litres 1 UK gallon = 4.55 litres (rounding up).

Hillarious. It looks like an off the shelf centrifugal electric fan. A more accurate descritption would be "electric turbocharger" since most superchargers are positive displacement devices. This looks like it would windmill when not powered. Actually, there is some work going on on electric turbos, but its for low-down torque on small engines and certainly wouldn't give you "an instant kick".

Ahhhhh-hahhhhhhhhh! They might not all be miles. Possibly the car recored in km up to when the odo was modded, and miles thereafter. Its possible that you will need the certificate and a calculator to work out how far your car has really travelled.

Do you think Matt Harwood has any jobs going..?

Maybe you have the 180kph speedo face under the 110mph cover? If not then put a wanted ad in the Sales section of this BBS. New speedos are a bit pricey. Sound like you have either a UK odometer, or a modded odometer fitted. The speedo (and all other speed dependant systems) takes its signal from the odometer, so it wouldnt make any sense to just mod the signal going into the odometer and leave the speedo as normal. Once you get your speedo face sorted, you can buy a cheap converter / SLD (speed limit defenser) from Pete Betts at TRL (who will be along any minute now) which will sort out your speedo reading and remove the limiter for you.

JIC fudge the indicators to pas sthe SVA test (apparently) by removing one outer fixing and elongating the top hole so that the whole unit swivels forward and out like Terminator described. One of mine was wobbly too. I removed the top fixing and pushed the lamp back into the "stock" position.

My toughts exactly Alex. A lot of the work that goes into electronic throttle calibration is to do with safety and diagnostics. You don't want it suddenly deciding you need "more performance" when you are pulling up at a zebra crossing. Call me conservative but a bolt on throttle controller doesn't sound good to me.

How come I misse that "all fuses are fine" line at the end? DOH! OK - If its one of the IP multiplugs, then I think a lot more would be wrong than just lighting. However, it could be a problem with the dimmer switch or wiring because all the IP lighting goes through this. Can't comment on the warning buzzer because I don't have one but I reckon its hooked into the same circuit. JIC like to hack into the dimmer switch wiring to power their foglamp conversions.

Sounds like a fuse to me. As to which one, check your handbook.

You have a server that reboots your arse? Technology, eh?

Okay, I'm keeping an open mind about this. I was cr@p at thermodynamics at college, but something I do remember is that the Mole is an atomic or molecular parameter - i.e. it applicable only to atoms of pure gases, so as far as I know you cannot relate it directly to a mixture of gases like air. It can be defined as the number of atoms needed such that the number of grams of a substance equals the atomic mass of the substance. As far as I can see, for Ian to work in Moles he would need to know how much a "mole of air" weighted to convert N back to kg. I had a look about and reckon its 28.964 grams per mole. I should be able to use R in J/mol/K and then use this to convert at the end, but I'm going for a curry in a minute. But R is the Gas Constant. It is the measure of energy in a unit amount of a gas per degree, therefore it shouldn't change with temperature or pressure, rather energy changes are determined by it. While writing this I have come across another similar value for R for air of 287.05 Joule/Kg/K. If it does change with temperature and pressure then it is foolish for the sites I pulled this off to call it "R" - it should be called something else. Anyway it all seemed to work when I layed it out, but as your freind correclty points out I only used one temperature / pressure point so it might all go to hell if either of these figures change. I'm not dissing what your mate says. If he works in chemistry then I'm sure he's forgotten more about moles than I will ever know, but I'm not quite ready to say I got it wrong yet.