Digsy

I'd side with Martin at this point. All the symptoms sound like a part of the breather system has come off.

I believe they are different apart from the back box.

My NA does exactly the same thing. I assumed that it might be a leaky vac hose, but it seems to do it at WOT rather than high speed / low load. Doesn't seem to be causing a problem.

DON'T USE A BLOWTORCH TO HEAT UP THE BOLT!!! :eek: There are too many rubbery bits in the TVD / crank pulley to risk waving a blowtorch around near them. Rob had this method of bolt-removal applied to his car by a Toyota dealer. Not long afterwards his crank pulley came apart.

I have a "weepy" front crank seal too, but it hasn't gone yet (touch wood). Just to hijack the thread a little, a lot of oil pumps have a small hole just behind the seal that vents excess pressure to the oil pan. If this hole gets blocked then the seal can get pushed out. Anyone know if the 2JZ pump has this feature or not?

The exhaust back pressure will play a part in the engine tuning, and theoretically lowering it could have a negative effect, but its difficult to say without trying it. The exhaust pulses will play a part in aiding the evacuation of the exhaust gases from the cylinder, and drawing a fresh charge in. Going to a more free flowing exhaust will also raise the combustion temperatures and lean off the mixture slightly, unless the ECU can learn to compensate. Plenty of stuff in here about retuning after fitting a low backpressure exhaust.

The skirt profile on the piston will be turned to a complex shape as well - i.e. it won't be a perfect cylinder so the clearance will vary ever so slightly up and down the piston. Carrying over the bore limits from the basic engine and adding 1mm oversize is a starting point, but really the piston manufacturer should recommend the bore finishing dimensions, tolerances and surface finish for a given application.

That's not true. I love my auto box NA with 3-spokes.

(Psssst. How much membership money would it take to get Vin Diesel to make an appeareance at the next meet?)

On the J2Z specifically, I have no idea. If you know the valve acceleration curve from the cam profile and engine speed, and the mass of the moving parts of the valvetrain (tappet, valve, retainer, collets +50% of the spring mass) you can work it out. The spring force at a given valve lift sould always be higher than the inertia force produced by the mass of the valvetrain. Spring force > valvetrain mass x cam acceleration

Don't forget the valvetrain, guys. You'll need to make sure the spring are up to the job if you don't want the valves to float at high rpm.

It was in MANU mode, Ian! Anyway, I still kicked your ass all the way up to 60 feet. Even speaking from the NA driver's perspective - it was a brilliant day. Real shame about the weather and the queueing but it was great to meet you all. It was a really nice atmosphere (even if it was bloody freezing!) Being a Pod virgin, I was happy not to come in at over 20 seconds (even on my "wrong gear" run). Just for the sake of interest, this is the timesheet for my best run. Remember this is a stock NA automatic. Reaction:--1.496 60ft:--------2.527 330ft:------6.975 1/8:---------10.547 (70.21mph) 3/16:-------13.471 1/4:---------16.175 (87.49mph) By the end of the day I was so keyed up that I blew my last run (against a fiesta with gansta tints) with a false start. I was still buzzing more than an Ann Summers sales rep when I got home. :D

As terminator says, it must be theoretically possible, but I reckon the airbox would blow apart before you damaged the engine. I would expect it to be drawing a vacuum downstream of the filter element. Are you planning a super huge pressurized airbox conversion or something?

If you look closely at EPC you will see the model year / month that the parts were meant to be fitted to. That should give you an indication of which part is suitable for your car.

The tyre width is about 0.5" wider than the rim width, so the textbook rim for a 255 tyre is 9.5" With the J style bead there is some leeway, but I can't remember how much it is.

When I was trying to decide whether to get socially acceptable wheels or get my three-spokes refurbed I looked around the usual high street places. There are a lot of companies that only make sizes up to 8" wide - probably because that is as far as your average Saxo owner wants to go. Above that the price rises dramatically. I opted for the refurb route. One or two new owners recently have found their car has big, but narrow wheels on it. If it was my money, I wouldn't fit new tyres to what you have - just put the cash into at very least a set of stock 16" or 17" with the correct size rubber. You are compromising handling and safety with anything less. JIC generally have wheels kicking around. On the other hand, if you can afford a new set of 18" x 10" gansta rims right now, then go for it!!

Sorry to break this to you but your wheels and tyres are too narrow full stop. You want about 9.5" / 10" wide rims on the rear and 8" min on the front. I don't think 245's would be safe on a 7.5" (190.5mm) wide rim. Actually, 235 sounds like its pushing it. Are you sure they are 7.5" rims?

I agree with James' calcs too - and I wish I'd read all the way to the bottom of this thread before I worked it all out myself

Hello and welcome to another S-Zedder. LOADS of stuff about delimiting here. You are already in touch with Pete "de-limiter" Betts, so you'll be sorted before long. Martin: I've got these squeaky boot rubbers. Do you know how I can fix them?

Excellent. It'll be good to put a few more names to faces.

I'll probably run, yes. I'll be "baseline boy" again, just like at the rolling road day!

Looks like I'm coming along too. Yes, I know - I have an NA! Any other SZ-ers going, if only to watch?

..and heres the picture to go with the post I @r5ed up earlier.

..and here's the part numbers to go with it. I reckon you want 23802-46050

Here's the fiche...