Digsy

Well, I was thinking if you are going to take signals straight out if the ECU you might want to put something between the ECU and the LED - sort of like a relay - so that the LED circuit and the ECU gubbins remain seperated. However, just thinking about it a bit more, if you took the signal from the "valve end" (probably a higher current) then I reckon you could tap off about 20mA to drive the LED without messing anything up. Only thing is, IIRC the Supra has all its switches on the earth side of the circuit, so it may take some head scratching to hook the LED into the loom. Possibly a question for Mr. Betts.

You mean the "current limiting resistor", which is put in series with the LED: R = (Vs - Vf) / If or: R = (Supply Voltage - Forward Voltage) / Forward Current Vf and If are characteristics of the LED. Supply voltage is whatever you are trying whack through it - probably 12V in our case. Probably better to put something between the LED and the ECU though...

I agree with Barry on 1 & 6. If it wasn't for 4 I'd say 2, 3, and 5 might be a blown fuse. I can't remember now whether they all come from the same power source or not.

We don't allow cameras on site at any time, except by special arrangement with Security. Even camera-phones are a no-no. Probably nothing exciting on display, but its a blanket policy. Think of it as Norfolk's Area 51.

For a JDM RZ 6 speed I get the following part number for the 2nd cat assembly: 17410-46160 (May 1993 onwards) The SZ and the SZ-R both use 17410-46190 (May 1993 onwards) The UK EPC calls up 17410-46180 for TT (May 1993 to January 1996) and 17410-46220 for NA (May 1993 to May 1996). So there are indeed four different cat pipes, but looks like only one for the RZ.

Go on Ian. You know you want to. And the pub serves that "proper food" you like so much. Not a drizzle of jus in sight Plus we can see whether Angie can whup you round corners, too...

I believe MAT sensors are usually thermistors. No idea about the oil temp though.

No. its a local track for local people

Being organised by Javelin Motorsport and also offered internally to emplyees. http://www.javelin-motorsport.co.uk/pages/event-20030913.html Anyone coming? I shall not be running but it would be cool to meet anyone from the board who wanted to come along. There's a very good pub nearby, too

Almost. 1 kg/cm^2 = 0.980665 bar [/picky]

Mine does this too. The first time you shift from P to D all the slack in the drivetrain will be taken up. This explains why it doesn't happen the second time you do it. Mine often does it when changing from D to R and back to D when parking (i.e. reversing the drive direction repeatedly), and it is worse in the mornings when the revs are high and the transmisison oil is cold.

Best avatar yet, Tony

By the way, did anyone apart from Ian and I follow the "Quck exit all routes" sign on the way out? I think I got to see the whole of the site...

Smashing day out. Really glad I dragged myself along (its the first "proper" meet I've been to apart from RWYB at Pod a few months ago. Like many have said above, its great to be able to put faces to avatars. If I had a pound for everyone who said "oh, you're the guy with the three-spokes"... Really lucked out with the weather too. I was wondering if it would turn into an automotive Glastonbury, but in the end it was bright enough to catch a few rays, but not quite enough to burn you to a crisp. Cheers to Ian for lending me some cleaning gear when I arrived (I'll be more organised next year). After getting up at 05:30 I was a bit punch-drunk by the time I arrived so a big apology to Gordon for the very surreal conversation I had with him. Of course I knew all along that your car is storm blue and you come from Beccles. I have met you three of four times before after all! I don't think my brain engaged properly until I got a cheeseburger down my neck...

Better hope he never meets me, then

Nice work Ian. On a completely unrelated note, there was a very sneaky speed trap on the A11 yesterday

Yep, you have to remove the whole dash, but it all clips together once you have the five screws out along the underside of the top part. IP = Instrument Panel - the assembly of the three dials. It is held in with four screws. Once you tilt it forward you can remove the three colour coded plugs that go into it and remove that. If your installation is like mine (it should be, we bought our cars from JIC at about the same time) you should be able to see exactly which wires were cut to fit the delimiter.

You mean you're the only Supra owner never to take his dash out? I thought you were rattle-hunter! Its really easy. Five screws for the dash, unclip all the panels. You cannot put the plugs back in the wrong sockets. Then its just four screws to get the IP forward on its loom. Go on. Do it. Doooooo iiiiiiiiiiit!!

Tony, If you take your dash off you will find your "delimiter" behind the IP. Mine had its power and negative leads screwed to terminals on the IP circuit board, and then "crimp" bullet type connectors for the speed signal. The box itself was not supported or fixed down in any way - it was just rattling around behind the IP on its wires. It should be pretty easy to spot which wires they cut to convert the speed signal so maybe you can put the wiring back to diagnose this yourself? Incidentally, the JIC "delimiter" isn't really a delimiter. They just feed the ECU with the same 5/8 signal that the speedo and odo gets.

I don't want to blow my own trumpet, but toot toot.

Pretty sure, Martin. Use the SEARCH button. Normal conductors' resistances drop as they cool. Thermistors go the other way (although I believe that you can get types which act more like a normal conductor). Just dredging up my schoolboy physics, I think thermistors are good for temperature measurement of this type, but they have a non-linear characteristic which means you have to have a calibration chart. I was just thinking of the absolute minimum cost, and I made the assumption that Mr. C would already have a multimeter that could do resistance measurement.

A thermistor is a semiconductor whose resistance (usually) drops the hotter it gets. You can get various ranges and they usually come with some kind of data sheet showing the temperature / resistance curve. You could calibrate yours by sticking it in a cup of boiling water together with a regular thermometer that you trust and noting down the resistance and "true" temperature as the water cools down to room temperature. If you want to be really anal you could then repeat the same with a cup of melting ice, noting the temperature rising as the ice melts. Plot the points onto a graph and then you can read off the resistance versus temperature as you go. I don't think you would need any more than the thermistor, some wire, and a multimeter with a suitable range to get up and running.

Cheapy thermistor from Maplins poked through the rubber hose hooked up to similarly cheapy multimeter? You could calibrate the thermistor yourself if you wanted to get more accurate later.

I thought rear fogs and brakes were the same wattage (21W)? Maybe there is different diffusion in the lenses. The legality comes in the fact that the fog has to be at least 10cm from the nearest brake light, so from that point of view you could "legally" do the twin brake light / one brake & fog conversion on a UK car where the two red lenses are separated by the reversing light, but not in a JDM or US car where they are together. There may also be an issue with the fog having to be a fog and nothing else.

As Ian says, an intake manifiold leak will cause uneven / unpredicatable running and, yes, you can have oil leaking from an intake manifold because of the closed breather system.