Digsy

Don't you get one free with the (£8) OEM oil filter?

Didn't know how big the OEM oil cooler is - I've got an NA

You will still need an oil cooler of some description, which mean you will still need an adaptor plate between the engine and filter, which might mean you don't end up wth much more clearance.

Forgive the slightly egg-suckiness of this but the sump is where the oil is stored after it has been through the engine and absorbed heat, so (ignoring losses to structure and from the bottom of the oil pan) IMHO the sump oil temp should be a good indication of the worst case working oil temp. Oil is removed from the pan, then pumped through the cooler. I reckon the temperature delta between the two will be very small but, yes, the temp at the cooler could be a little higher, so if you want a worst case that's where it would be. We usually measure oil temp in the sump, though. 135 is the temperature at which we usually run our lubrication circuit simulations, again as a worst case.

You couldn't do it with a pot because the speed sensor signal is a digital pulse, not an analogue voltage. I did used to have a picture of the waveform but much to my annoyance I lost it. You would have to build a small circuit (maybe PIC based) to sample the input signal and then output a duplicate waveform but with the frequency scaled to correct the error. IIRC the Thor speedo converter allowed you to do this within certain limits. It does raise an interesting question, though. It means that the speedo head and ODO circuit must be available in different versions to match the diff type. I wonder if there is a simple change that can be made inside these components that tells it which final drive ratio you have (kind of like a jumper setting on a PC motherboard)?

IRRC the fuel filter is a "B" service item, which means every 27000 miles. It might be worth doing it more frequently simply to keep the unions free, as once they corrode up it can make getting the filter off very difficult.

Yeah that's right but Nod wanted to know where it was in the UK car. Plus if you do use the stock switch then you will have to provide a seperate tell tale light somwhere on the dash. Its in the fuel / temp gauge. See attached.

No idea how the importers usually wire rear fogs. Mine had one of the looms cut in the rear light cluster and a fresh cable run from a switch in the dash to one of the reversing lights, which had been fitted with a red bulb (technically still an MOT failure). The power source for the lights was taken from the dash illumination which IMHO isn't up to the job. There was no relay. I re-wired mine by emulating the stock wiring, taking a live feed from the main power distribution and running it through a relay behind the drivers side kick panel. You can use a stock switch although you will have to cut out a very neat hole in the dash to fit it, as it fits from behind. You will need the part number for the older style switch, which is a simple push on / push off type. Later switches are more clever and self-cancel but I don't think you can wire them straight in (unless someone on here knows different). The old style switch has four terminals. Two for dashboard illumination and two for the actual switch. You will also need to rig up a telltale warming lamp on the dash. I hacked the instrument panel and put it inside the fuel / temp gauge where the stock one is, but that was just me being mega-anal Any light (preferably orange) will do. I think you can even buy them with the rear fog logo on it.

The J-spec brake caliper refurb kit for the REAR is about £40 (I just bought one from Toyota). The kit for the front will be slightly dearer. If you go for it you could easily remove, refurbish and rebuild both sides in a day, but I'd prefer to take my time and get everything nice and clean and paint the calipers while they are off the car. Problem is that if you find something nasty like rust in the cylinder bore below the seal groove, then you are stranded until you can find a replacement caliper as there would be no point refurbing them. I too have never had bleed nipple problems (and I have changed calipers zillions of times) but am aware of many that have.

I used a cheap honing tool from Snap On in an electric drill to re-surface the piston bores in my calipers when I did a front and rear refurb a few years back, but it pays to be careful with the fronts because the piston housings are aluminium and can gaul up if you get it wrong. It might be worth buying a tool to re tap the thread where the brake line connects as I found mine to be full of gunk. This will save all the crud from entering the cylinder when you screw the banjo bolt back in. I think it is M10x1mm but I can check next time I am in the garage. The belows seals for the sliding pins can be pressed in using a vice. I squashed the rubber part into a large hex socket to protect it and then pressed the seal in using that. Before using this method I managed to split one seal by pressing on the rubber iteslf.

I'm 41 so you're not the oldest.

They should all come on (all the ones you have anyway). The "key on" is so you can check the bulbs in the warnng lights. Oil level / pressure is only for the engine.

What if someone had actually bought a UK speedo head and put that in the car? I believe the pulse train is the same on J spec and UK models and I think the speedos are interchangable. Not sure about the odometer.

If it was converted at the gearbox then the car would also be delimited, surely?

Unless it rains.

Well, based on your descriptions so far it sounds like rather than the throttle getting stuck the drivetrain is getting unloaded somehow which means your engine suddenly finds itself free to rev. When you are stationary and the engine is under virtually no load, the further reduction in load causes a small increase in revs but when you are cruising when the load comes off the change in revs is more noticable. The fact that the car doesn't change speed up or down while this is happening and doesn't try to pull away on you by mistake makes it sound like you are losing drive which I guess must be a torque converter issue, and it is the loss of drive which is unloading the engine. The "revving when decelerating" thing doesn't fit with this theory at all, however, because the engine should be under no load at all. In fact if you lost drive it would drop to idle, not rev. But its intermittent nature and the fact that you are also getting warning lights makes me think its actually an electrical issue rather than a mechanical failure, but I can't think of what that might be because anything that actually makes the car rev as much as you are describing should make it jerk about / speed up / slow down and generally misbehave. Its definately not just the rev counter needle moving on its own?

The J-spec brakes and how they seize up if you so much as look at them wrong. Given that most cars (apart from really, really high performance ones) have sliding calipers nowadays, the J-spec Supra brake durability is appaling.

If you have warning lights then you will have stored fault codes. It might help your garage if you do the check in this thread: http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?35920-How-To-Check-the-diagnostics-codes What I still can't understand is how your car "revs like mad" but still slows down. Unless you are losing drive through the torque converter, if your engine revs then you should speed up. What you are sat at the lights and the engine revs "a little" does the car feel like it is trying to pull away? In any case, when you are stationary, or slowing down, your foot will be off the throttle, so it might mean your throttle isn't closing, or the idle air valve isn't doing its job properly. Not sure if that would cause "excessive" revving, though. *Edit* Or do you put it in "N" when slowing down or at the lights?

I'm still not 100% sure from your description but I am assuming that you are saying the car accelerates and decelerates when the engine revs. Could be a dodgy throttle position sensor? You say it does it when you are pootling around doing 35-40 but not above 50-60. Presumably the traffic light thing was all when you were at a standstill. Try putting it in manual mode and driving in a lower gear than normal at a speed where you know the problem occurs. That way the throttle (and the throttle sensor) will be in a different position than usual. TPS can develop a wear spot in their tracks at the point where you normally cruise. Driving in a different gear will put the sensor in a different place and circumvent the problem. Having said that, if the car is changing speed at random you probably shouldn't be driving it at all. I'm amazed that the ECU isn't catching this and throwing up a fault. Have you done a check for fault codes?

If its an auto and its revving "like crazy" then you must be losing drive somewhere otherwise you would be in a hedge by now, which would point to some kind of drivetrain problem. Sorry if these sound like dumb questions, but is it actually revving to the redline and back or less than that? Is the engine revving or just the needle on the rev counter moving? Incidentally, our autos do have clutches for locking up when cruising, but they only change the RPM by a tiny amount.

And the filter in the sump is clear?

Have you actually checked anything on the box apart from the colour of the fluid? I can't even see a post where you say you have checked the level?

I suspect that there is a rollover valve integrated into the tank or the purge line somewhere. It would be very unusual for it to be in the canister. Problem is the Toyota schematic for the purge system doesn't show a rollover valve at all. Might be worth looking on EPC to check where it is.

Maybe he's having a big Kit Kat to go with them.

Check this out. http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?173779-Active-Spoiler-down-up-95-75&p=2238253&viewfull=1#post2238253