Digsy

"Regrind" bearings (if available) will still be graded.

It looks like "red" is the switched output from the PIR, so it would be wrong to connect an earth wire there. I'm surprised it worked at all before it tripped out.

Water cooled turbos only cool the centre section containing the bearings and seals. The turbine housing and wastegate are not cooled directly (unless you have found one with a water jacket around the turbine). You say that a wastegate can get as hot as the turbo hot side, but they should be designed to work at those temps.

Unless its a botched speedo conversion or delimiter as mentoned above it'll probabaly be the odometer circuit board. See if you can borrow someone else's for a little while, swap it over and see it the error code and other symptoms go away.

Mine had that on both sides. I ended up replacing the whole tailgate.

Chris, isn't it more a case of the turbo doesn't need excessive pressure, so its best to restrict it so as not to lower the pressure elsewhere in the lube circuit? i.e. if you don't restrict it, it won't actually damage the turbo - its just pointless wasting oil flow / pressure? Not sure what the aftermarket world is like but most of the turbos I have seen have a pretty small oil hole feed hole machined into the centre section, anyway. A word on thermo-siphoning: It will only work properly if there is an uphill run from the turbo coolant outlet to the radiator - something that I suspect many Supra turbo installs do not have.

Just thought I would bump this as at the weekend I changed my stock Toyota battery after two years under Toyota's three year warranty. No quibbles at all, just a quick test and I walked out with a new battery

It never even ran. The show engine was just a show engine and the engine had already been dropped before the motorshow it was exhibited at. Totally the wrong kind of powerplant for a sportscar, IMHO. Way too big and heavy for its power output.

Soop Dogg did this many moons ago. Might be worth a PM.

The turbo itself won't put much extra heat into the oil as the flow through it is so small, so its pointless cooling the oil going from / to the turbo. The extra heat to oil will come from the engine's increased power output. The best place for a cooler take off / return is a sandwich plate before the oil filter, where the stock TT one is situated, so it cools the oil in the way to the whole engine.

There's no simple answer to that because flywheel bolts are not sized according to power output. They are sized to clamp against the peak instantaneous torque that the crankshaft sees due to torsional vibration, and that isn't directly linked to the engine output.

No, the pressure drop across the turbo is huge. Oil comes out frothy at pretty musg atmospheric pressure. It won't flow through a cooler. You need as wide a diameter pipe as possible with a constant downhill run to drain a turbo.

Toyota sells repair kits for the plugs. Trouble is you have to buy the housing, pins and weather seals as seperate items and when you add it all up it costs a small fortune. Something like £20 per connector rings a bell.

Yeah, its a parking sensor beeper. My car had one behind the side trim panels in the boot (only one though). It might be worth tracing the wiring back if you don't actualy have the sensors anymore. If your car beeps when you put it in reverse then the controller is probably still in there somewhere. The "normal" J spec reverse beeper is a little grey box that plugs into the PCB in the instrument panel.

If I was him, when it was finally unveiled I would shout "TADA!" But that's just me

Chrikey, that's badly written. It says that the oil "should be between the low and full levels marks" but then if it is low "add oil up to the full level mark". So if the oil level is between the low and full level marks, is it low or not?

This is an NA, right? You will probably find the leak is coming from the drive to the distributor, which is right above the alternator.

I'm afraid you're both wrong. Its 568fwhp. The 22% is calculated from the fwhp, not the rwhp. The rwhp is the 78% that is left, so the correct maths is: fwhp = rwhp x 1/0.78

About time too. I'm all for equality but it has to work both ways. There actually used to be an advert in the Yellow pages for a female only insurance company that had a big banner saying "DON'T PAY FOR MEN'S INCOMPETANCE". WTF? If you put that in writing that for any other demographic group you would get hung drawn and quartered. I did read once that the reason why statistically women claim for fewer accidents than men is because they are more often than not named drivers on their partner's insurance policy. I'm not sure if it actually pans out like this in the paperwork at claim time, though, because depsite being penisly challenged I have never had to make a car insurance claim.

If you do that with a thread that you think is standard pitch and it turns out to be fine you will probably mess up the thread. I'm not sure it its a hard and fast rule, but some Fear East manufacturers use standard pitch for M8 and below, and fine pitch for M10 and above.

If I was in the Rotary CLub I would have approached the RX7 forum first

99 times out of 100 its not actully the speed sensor that is at fault. Its usually the circuit board behind the odometer. I replaced mine with a 2nd hnd part but there is a workaround you can do by jumping somw wires to bypass the dodgy circuit. I can't remember the details but they wil be on here somewhere.

Some valve springs are progressive and have tighter coils at one end. Those should be installed with the tightly wound coils at the bottom. That doesn't look like a progressive spring to me, hence it should not matter which way up it goes. Would have been nice of they could have ground the ends square. Maybe its just the picture...

I thought the forum kept copies of posts in their original, unedited form? I'm pretty sure the infamous "Where are the turbos" thread was brough back from the dead after the OP edited it.

Yeah, if they have to be set manually, no point havging a dowel hole at all!