Digsy

I used to have those on mine. They don't look great.

I bought a new stock rad cap for £20 from mylocal Toyota dealer very recently.

I would definately do the tippex test before you do considering how cheap tippex is and how expesive crank pulleys are

We can see how the air gets into the cooler. Can it get out from the back just as easily?

The hardest bit is geting the front pistons out if they are already on offf the car. The rears and one of the fronts you can push out through the banjo bolt hole, but the second front piston can be a pain if you don't have access to an air compressor to blow them out.

If you topped up the rad and the expansion tank then it would be normal for the tank to be over full while the engine was hot. When it cools down the level in the tank should go back to where you filled it.

Depends on how it was done though. IMHO to do a real test of this you would want to do a baseline dyno and emissions test. I'd want to see three dyno runs before and after to check the repeatability of the figures. There's no point claiming 5% improvement in torque if the dyno varies by 3% from one run to the next Ideally the before and after would want to be done close enough together that there wasn't a massive temperature and atmospheric pressure change between the two, but the figures could be corrected for that afterwards (if the dyno doesn't do it automatically). The oil level should be checked before each set of runs to make sure it is exactly the same (crankcase windage robs more power than you might think). For the emissions test, one test before and after would do but the car would need to be prepped for each test the same way beforehand. Letting it go completely cold and then warming it up as if it was doing a test for the MOT should suffice. None of this doing the Terraclean and then immediately sticking a sensor up the tailpipe while the engine is stinking hot business. For fuel consumption I would want to see the car used as repeatably as possible for a full tank of fuel with the mileage being logged and the amount of fuel used being recorded at the pump (brimmed to start and then brimmed at the end to measure the difference). using the car as your daily drive / commute should be a good way of getting through a full tank quickly and in as repeatable style of driving as possible. Real world fuel economy figures are measure at very low speeds and loads, so going for a blat down the nearest private test track won't produce useful numbers. Mind you, I have a record of MPG for nearly every single tank full I have ever put in my Supra over 11 years of ownership and even those figures vary by about +/-3mpg from tank to tank, so again a big pinch of salt required there. The best way to do it would be to measure the injector duty cycle for a set speed / load point (2000RPM / 2bar BMEP is a favourite). Very steady right foot required And a bore scope inspection before and after would be useful, but obviously a big ask As well as seeing the results first hand, there is a danger of getting a false negative if your engine isn't coked up to start with! A big pain in the bum to do, but that's the scientific method for you!

They have the same part number on EPC.

That's odd. It should be full when the engine is hot. I think your coolant ran low a while before you spotted the problem. FWIW the spring on my rad cap fell apart some time ago and I never even noticed it. The expansion bottle never filled up or spewed out. Mind you I have a stock NA and you have a modded TT, so you will be loading the cooling system up more.

What are you planning? A before and after run?

If the spring fails it would vent more then normal, but it shouldn't spray anything out unless the expansion tank was completely full. Obviosly this wasn't the case when you checked as you said you topped up the expansion tank. Maybe the sudden release of pressure unseated the cap temporarily and allowed coolant to vent directly intot he engine bay rather than into the expansion tank?

So its not just "highly refined fuel" then, as mentioned by Edd China when it was on Wheeler Dealers? I thought you ran the engine completely off the Terraclean unit during the cleaning cycle (i.e its totally disconnected from the vehicle fuel system). The engine must surely be running for the combustion cycle, but when it is there's only water vapour coming out of the exhaust? *Edit* Unless its hydrogen in the black can, of course.

I thought that was the bit it was supposed to do? All the combustion surfaces: Combustion chamber, valves and piston. If it works by modifying the combustion process through "refinement" of the fuel it would not clean injectors or intake runners.

Don't DRL's have to turn off when you switch the lights on? If you just wired them into the sidelight wiring you would just have extra bright sidelights.

Still 99.9% sure its your alternator, but here is the relevant service manual section. ALTERNATOR_AND_REGULATOR.PDF

Same symptoms as I had when my alternator died.

Neither low oil nor low brake fluid would make the check engine light come on.

Which light comes on? If its low brake fluid or engine oil you should get the main warning light plus another light telling you which it is.

Well, blow me! I never knew that :-) You can't really see it from above the engne bay so I assumed I was screwing the filter direct to the block.

The NA doesn't have anything between the filter and block at all. Sounds like yours has a cooler adapter fitted which isn't plumbed in. *edit* This statment is actually incorrect.

That stuff around the top of the new 'stat doesn't look right. Looks like the wax is leaking out of the pellet or something.

The handbook service schedule is in the atatchement here . To find out what it in the routine A and B services someone will need to scan the handbook and post it. I have done this myself way back, but I can't find it now using the search so I guess its been pruned out. If you have modded your car you can tear this up though and make up your own schedule.

Cam bearings dont have a particularly hard life compared to crank and big end bearings. All the load comes from the springs and so acts in one direction. Although they are direct fed they can run on feck all oil. In fact te size of the oil hole is usually goverened by the smallest drill that the production line can guarantee won't keep breaking (usually about 3mm). You are liable to do more damage by trying to repair it or get it rebored. Provided it (and the camshaft) cleans up ok with a light rub of fine emery you might be OK.

Has it actually worn a ridge on the camshaft or is that line just accumulated crud? I'd clean it up and post some more pics. As for the head I presume the cam cap looks the same? Its he cap that tales the load, not the head.

Yes I'm pretty sure its its M10x1