Tyson

Found one for 35 quid delivered with a 3 year warranty !! So am going to get that instead don't think a recore is going to cheaper.

Amen to that !

its autocratic

No I was on about the current colour scheme. Grey and red .. WTF and a white interior ... It should have been red and black with a tan interior would have looked loads better.

Its going to look gash in pink but the current colour scheme looks gash too. What kind of tard spends over a million pounds on a super car then gets a mismatched retarded paint combo

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Don't worry the squirrel told me everything

Fair enough its just that unless I know the person and what expertise they hold in the area I tend not to believe what they say unless I can read up about it and understand why. I'd rather base my decisions upon my own understandings rather than what someone tells me. This is in no way having a dig or saying you don't what you're on about its just how I roll. Plus I love learning new stuff about cars

As I said earlier I drive the last 5 or so miles steadily and let it idle for 30 - 60 seconds, basically as long as it take me to get out close the gate and get back to the car again. But I know what you mean, I was more interested in that he said idling the car is bad for it even though Toyota tell you to do this.

The code will mean nothing to anyone other than a Toyota dealership for obvious security reasons ...

You have disconnected the battery haven't you? Don't want an airbag going off in your face !!!

Do you have any material proof that this is bad for the engine? As if you have I would like to read it to make an informed decision. The last thing I want to be doing is creating excess wear or damaging the engine.

There is a plaque on the inside of the centre console in my car and it also says it in the handbook. I am sure you have logic to back up your points but I am going to trust Toyota on this one.

The turbos spin at very high speed as you probably know and they need time to slow down as when you turn the car off the oil pump stops so there is no oil being pumped round the turbos. Manufacturers wouldn't install a turbo timer as the security risks would be a PITA. Toyota's recommendations are: Normal city driving - idling not necessary High speed driving 50 MPH - about 20 seconds High speed driving 63MPH - about 1 minute Steep mountain slopes or continued driving above 63 MPH - about 2 minutes

I always thought it was more to do with letting the turbos spool down than under bonnet temperatures? I always drive slowly for the last part of the journey then let the car idle for about 30 - 60 seconds then turn off. Also usually pop the bonnet to remove some excess temperature too.

How about a saw type thing where you strap a bit of explosive to each of them. The first one to escape the maze gets to live the rest get blown up. Sound fair to me

If you don't take it local how are you going to get home once you scrap it? Someone following ? So that's the fuel you use plus theirs, plus you have to mess someone about for half a day. Alternatively public transport ?? Its going to be a tonne of hassle for an extra 5 quid, will it really mean that much to you?

Is that a typo or is the supra actually 100 pounds?

Has the MOT run out? If it has you can only drive the car to an MOT test station which means you would have to get it transported which will cost you more money than you will get from a scrapyard. TBH you will get about 50 quid for it from most places, take it to the local scrappy and have done with it. Alternatively you could break it but then you still have to get rid of the shell which again means getting a transporter. It's a lot of hassle for little gain IMO.

got mine on monday thanks !!!

He's nearly as good as me

Never thought of that, any ideas on rough pricing for that Dunk?

Marc is right, I was looking for my supra a year ago when I was 21 and the lowest insurance quote I got was 3500 for an import. Which is why I got my UK spec because I would rather spend the 2500 extra on the car as it was only 1000 to insure it. It is your responsibility to make sure the insurance details are correct even if you provide a reg no as they are not liable for incorrect records at the DVLA. I found this out when I had my MG ZR 160 which is a 1.8 with VVC but they had it as a 120 which is a 1.8 non VVC, the numbers denote the PS rating so its quite considerable. I only noticed when it came to renewal and I rang them up to tell them about some modifications. Wondered why they were considerably cheaper than anyone else. They wanted to back date my insurance premium which I said wasn't going to happen, they also tried telling me it had had an engine transplant as it was definitely a 120. I knew it hadn't as I had the original bill of receipt, the V5 coo-berated this and the engine number matched.

I have a Vauxhall Astra Mk3 1.4 8v (tower of power !!) and I am going to get a new radiator for it. It isn't leaking or over heating as I have done 50 miles journeys and sat in traffic and it sits where it should. But half the fins are missing and all the rest are dust as I found out when I ran my finger across them So for peace of mind I want to change as it needs a service so the coolant will be coming out anyway. Where is the best place to get one from ? I don't really want to get an ebay special because I am driving to Ireland next month but also don't have a mountain of cash to spend as I have to pay the car insurance next week Obviously there is the local motor factors but will they be able to contend with internet ? I know I could just ring around and spend a day searching but I just wanted to know if anyone knows a good place that does them cheap.