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Everything posted by J-Meiser
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You make it sound so simple and straightforward ! It has been a lot of work but it looks like all of my time and research is paying off. Add to that a lot of blood, sweat, tears and prayers (all of it, literally) and this is where it has got me to. I do agree, it does sound awesome. If I don't look happy in the video, it is because I am concentrating, making sure that everything is ok. That was one of my first few WOT pulls, so I was hoping that nothing broke! While it was at the MOT station having the emissions test carried out, I was able to stand by the engine bay and I was watching the bypass valve as the engine was taken through the rev range. I them asked if they could rev it to the redline once they had finished, just so I could check and yes, it did close properly. On the drive today, I hit a max of 10 psi, but most of the WOT runs sat stable at 9 psi. When driving normally, I could see the boost coming online and going away consistently, depending on how much throttle I was using, so I am confident that it is working properly . Once I get the SupraStick operational again, I intend to try and take it to a dyno, as I would like to know what it putting down and whether there are any issues throughout the rev range.
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Hello everyone, I took my Supra out for a run today, as I finished installing the water-methanol system over the weekend. I need to fine tune the system a bit, as I do experience some bogging at lower RPMs but it does come alive at 4500-5000 RPM all the way to redline. Here's a very small snippet from my drive today. I still have more work to do, but it is getting there!
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Good evening all! I only have a small update this evening. I am still yet to take it out on the roads and see what it can do. On the two drives to and from the MOT station, I was pretty careful as I was listening out for any odd noises and also trying to see if anything felt wrong whilst driving. I am pleased to report that it felt and drove fine! Since then it has been sitting in my garage while I sort out some wiring . I have a few accessories to add and I wanted to wire them in properly, so I decided to utilise the blank spot in the fuse box where the EFI 2 relay should be and mimic the EFI 2 setup from the TT. Once that was in and the wire fed through to the cabin, I finalised the wiring for the controller for the water methanol system and switched on the ignition to test it out. It came online perfectly . The next steps are to some wires to the boot for the fluid level sensor and pump power, test, then fill up the system and test again before fitting nozzle to the intake and going out for a test drive!
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It might be worthwhile starting a new thread, we're a long way from June 2016 and may well get more interest .
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Thanks everyone for the input, I have some springs now.
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Thank you very much! It has been far more work than I anticipated, but I am really glad that it is up and running smoothly now. Thanks for the flat block/sandpaper suggestion! I did not think of that. I will be keeping a close eye and ear on my engine as everything settles down, so if I get an inkling of a leak, I will give that a go. I already had spare gaskets on order, just in case .
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That is not too bad, actually. Were they comfortable? What sort of price would you be looking to get for them? Feel free to send it either here or via PM, I am not fussy.
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Thank you very much for the suggestion, I will take a good look at these too!
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I forgot to say thanks for the offer of the parts! Also, this is just a general question to anyone who reads this, but what would the effect be pairing UK or TT rear springs with NA fronts? I have never given suspension much thought over the years as stock worked perfectly fine for me, so I don't have much knowledge in this area.
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How are the Teins compared to stock and how much do they lower the front and rear by? In light of what had happened, I have been debating whether to swap all of them or just replace the rears.
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All being well, once everything is sorted, I do plan to get to as many meets and go on as many road trips as I can, so hopefully you will .
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Good point! To be honest, with the estimated power output that have, I'm thinking that TT springs would be a better option.
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Hi all, Does anyone have any stock rear springs available? Both of mine are broken and they're needed before it will pass an MOT test. I've got the stock black suspension, if that's of any help?
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Thanks Mike ! Thank you and that it has! I miss those meets; good company, good food and I always enjoyed the drive there and back. I was quite surprised to see that Zak's had closed .
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Thanks Annabella! I am yet to really open the throttle (I do not want to deafen the neighbours!) but the whine is quite subtle at the moment. Conditions (and petrol) permitting, I will try my best to get some cabin videos sorted as soon as I can. Yes, good point regarding the fluff; I will get that sorted out. Thank you!
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Hi all, Since my last update I have been chasing down the leak and it has been a real nuisance to find. I had to take a break from hunting it in the end and do a couple of other jobs that I had been on my to-do list for a while. I started off by changing the fuel pumps. I had a Walbro GSS341 fuel pump waiting in my “parts store” for ages, so as I could safely rule out the fuel pump as an issue, I figured that I may as well swap them over. It came already fitted on the hanger, fully wired up, so swapping them over was a straightforward job. I conducted a start-up test and the engine fired up first time! I was impressed, considering that it had been sitting in a box on a shelf in my garage for over 2 years! I wanted to be certain that the bonnet would close properly and that the supercharger had sufficient clearance when it was closed. I would have been incredibly annoyed if, after all this work, the supercharger pulley caught on the bonnet, despite all the checks and measurements that I conducted earlier on in the build. I cut a small square out of the bonnet liner, closed the bonnet and, thankfully, it closed without issue. I repeated the test, with the engine running and again, no interference issues with the bonnet closed. Success! I needed to turn my Supra around for a bit, so as a final check, I drove it down the driveway, turned it around on the road and then brought it back up the drive. I made sure that it was not slow, just so that there would be some movement in the bay – it is all good so far. I just hope that it remains that way when I do get back out on the roads. Once I had finished all my other jobs, I set about finding the leak(s) once more. Having checked all the pipes connecting to the supercharger, I was able to rule them out. However, listening to the leak, it sounded as though it was coming from the throttle body side of the supercharger, so I decided to dismantle the inlet tract up to the supercharger, check the connections and go from there. I found that the pipe that connected to the IACV had a bit of a gap where it connected to the IACV, so I cleaned up the hard pipe and applied some sealant to try and improve the seal. I checked the mating faces of the throttle body adapter after noticing that there was black “soot” at the bottom of the throttle body gasket, which indicated that the mating faces were not quite making an air-tight seal with the gasket. The adapter-to-supercharger face was perfect. However, the adapter-to-throttle body face was a little uneven in places, so I carefully ground down the uneven areas until they were comparable to the straight edge that I was using for reference. Once I was happy that I had done everything in my power to get the best seal possible, I reassembled the inlet tract, making sure that all the bolts were properly torqued and then conducted a start-up test. Here is how it went: FINALLY ! With the engine now running smoothly, I am going to fill it with coolant, then finish plumbing in the water/methanol system and then sort out the wiring/electronic side of the system. Once that is complete, I will review my to-do list and try to tick off a few more jobs. The build continues!
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I have re-read the wording and it does state 7 colour photographs with links to similar vehicles for sale in the UK and/or an independent valuation document. Obviously, the chances of finding another V8 Supra for sale is remote, so would a modified TT Supra be the best bet to use as a reference?
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Sorry for hijacking the thread, but I just wanted to ask a quick, related question (I apologise if it's a trivial one) - how do you go about getting your Supra valued? I've gone with agreed value on my policy, I can sort out the required photos no problem, but getting it independently valued has got me stumped. It's not something that I have ever done before and I have no idea where to start.
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Mods are highlighted in italics Engine Specifications: 4.0 V8 1UZ-FE from a Toyota Soarer, hydraulic fan pump removed and replaced with an LS400 idler Turbocharger & Induction: M112 supercharger from a 2003 Ford SVT Mustang Cobra Bullet Performance inlet manifold Custom top plate Fuel, Tuning & ECU: Stock fuel pump ECU Soarer ECU 300 cc injectors from a Toyota 3RZ-FE Walbro GSS341 255 lph fuel pump High-flow braided fuel lines AEM Adjustable Fuel Pressure Regulator Snow Performance Stage 2.5 Water Methanol System Mishimoto XL Compact Baffled Oil Catch Can, 3-Port Radium Engineering Universal In-Line Fuel Pulse Damper Exhaust: Custom Stainless Steel 2-to-1 Drivetrain: Soarer A341E 4-Speed automatic transmission with a A343E valve body, shimmed actuators TT A02B Limited Slip/TORSen Diff Combination of Soarer and TT Propshafts Factory Cruise Control (retrofitted) SupraStick Automatic Transmission Controller Weight Reduction & Transfer: Swapping the 2JZ-GE for the stock 1UZ-FE saved approx. 70 kg (dry weight) Suspension, Wheels, Tyres & Brakes: MeisterR ZetaCRD Coilovers LS400 (UCF20) 4-piston front calipers (refurbished) with Blueprint discs and Mintex pads Stock J-Spec rear calipers (refurbished) with Mintex discs and pads Braided Brake lines 19" Jade-R alloy wheels with 235/35/19s at the front (with 5 mm spacers to clear the calipers) and 265/35/19s at the rear Interior & ICE: GZ-spec sound system with stock amp under passenger seat (factory fitted, now back in operation) Mutant Euphony 6.5" component speakers at the front, Fly 6.5" 3-way speakers in the rear, factory subwoofer Atoto S8 Ultra (Gen 2) Head unit Recaro Trendline leather seats at the front with stock leatherette seats at the rear Steering wheel from a 7th generation Yaris with a (modified) Supra cruise control stalk Rear windows tinted Exterior: Stock body kit S2000 Stubby Aerial Smoked side repeaters Facelift headlight units 6K HID Dipped beams Facelift indicator/sidelight units LED Sidelights Zunsport Front Grille Kit
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From the album: 1994 SZ Aerotop - Supercharged
© Jamaine Jacobs
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Morning everyone! Another small update. Since my last update I have been able to work through almost everything on my "To-Do" list, so yesterday evening I drafted in my wife for another attempt at getting this started. This is how it went: There is still a small leak somewhere, as it did screech a bit, but nowhere near a badly as before. Also, when the engine was turned off and everything was still, I could hear the sound of air escaping, so I will track that down and fingers crossed, that should be it for this phase! The next phase will be sorting out the water/methanol system.
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Fair enough. To be honest, I would have been more surprised if my wallet didn't feel a dent, only a slight nudge .
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Hopefully so! I suppose the proof will be in the next time I try starting the engine . At the moment, I will be sticking with the stock ECU. All of the research that I carried out appears to support the fact that it can cope with the setup that I will be running, but again, we shall have to see. If the ECU does have a hissy fit, I will look into an aftermarket one. I will have to find one that supports cruise control and an automatic transmission. I'm not sure how many of there actually do that, so it could get interesting .
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Hi everyone, Just a quick update this evening. Since my last update, I have taken the supercharger assembly apart, cleaned it all up and I am now reassembling it all. I noticed, during the disassembly, that 2 of the bolts that held the throttle body in place were very loose. I believe that, due to my enthusiasm to do the first start, I put them in place to hold the throttle body, but forgot to go back and tighten them up properly later on. I would be very surprised if that was not a major contributor to the issues that I experienced. Over the course of the weekend, I have mounted the supercharger again, having refitted and sealed the inlet manifold and top plate. I swapped out the IAT sensor for a new one and this time, it screwed in securely, so that should improve the seal in the manifold. The remainder of the new spring chips arrived, so the PCV lines have all been connected up properly. I have replaced the stock spring clips used on the IACV bypassed line with the new, stronger clips in the hope that this will provide a better seal. The next jobs on my "To-Do" list are to reinstall the fuel lines, refit the throttle body adapter and in turn, the throttle body, making sure that all bolts are properly tightened up. After that, it will be the inlet piping, radiator, radiator pipes and the battery. There's not much left, but I am not rushing it; not after what happened last time! I was really hoping to be able to go on DragonCol, but it is not looking likely. I have not taken any pictures as almost everything I am doing now, I have already done and photographed before, but should I do anything drastically different, I will take a picture and share . Thanks for reading and I hope to have another update soon!
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Thanks Hammer, hopefully, I'll have it up and running soon. I'm working on it . I was hoping to have it back on the road by now, but hey. Once I've got it sorted, I'll gladly share some on the road videos and pics. Hopefully soon. I'm not sure how it's going to sound, but I'll get a video sorted as soon as I can. I have some extractors to fit at some point, so a comparison video is a must!