Marcus GTE

Here are some pics of the supposed car from the film, it's signed by some of the cast on the spoiler. The engine is different again (TT- single conversion?) from all of the previous pics put up. Guess it shows just how many different props were used. I bet the engine that had the red cover never actually made it into the car.

Is there anything youtube can't teach you to do? I'll have a look, cheers dnk.

1. SPG 2. Marcus GTE

I'm up for one. Can do any Sunday apart from Sunday coming.

Cool, thanks for the info. It's a shame it's something so safety critical as I'd feel better having it professionally done but the theory seems very simple. A good skill to Learn I guess.

So you did- spooky Hope it helps and it's a cheap fix for you. I also cleaned the battery posts btw. Good luck

I guess if one thing is going to go you probably want it to be that eh? Cheaper than a Power steering pump ect

Have a read at this. I had the same symptoms you describe and simply cleaning up the connections solved my problem. http://mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?303759-Battery-not-charging-poor-earth-fix

My guy said it wasn't a job anyone was looking forward to doing in his garage so I suspect he offered them an enhanced rate as incentive perhaps. Not sure as he's normally quite good but from memory it was well over £200. Are copper lines more beneficial than what toyota fitted due to being less corrosive?

Hi, would be interested to know how you got on with this and what Toyota charged for the brake lines etc. I had a garage make up copper brake lines for my shogun and it cost quite a bit in labour.

Did you get this sorted? I had the same thing and fitting a new belt last week completely cured it.

Here is that very thread for convenience. Interesting reading. http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?291582-FMIC-Ducting-and-IAT-cooling-mods!&highlight=proper+ducting

Good stuff mate, glad you got it sorted

Cool, good luck. Source the foam while you're waiting

Well having all that space will help! I wasn't brave enough to take off my front bumper after hearing there are millions of clips Wait to hear what Paul says and if it's how it should be then try what dnk suggested by making your own holes on the brackets. If you have lost your top bracket I remember a thread in the for sale section where someone was selling an old stock smic and had no intrest and was going to skip it. Might be worth a pm to see if he can help with a bracket or two. Failing that, toyota? P.s when you get to fitting it- if the intercooler pipes are a bit short loosten the other sections on the passenger side and borrow some length from there. Might involve slightly bending the bottom plastic intercooler hose (no2 air tube in diagram) bracket towards the drivers side.

Sounds like a good idea if you hear that that's the way they are supposed to come and modifying the brackets is required.

Sorry to say it but after looking at your pics, mine lined up perfect compaired to that. Maybe it was a manufacturing mistake?

As you may know, I did this swap last week. I can only go by mine being a CW and not a Wiffbitz one but I would imagine it should line up the same. Have you taken your stock smic out? Or did you not have one as you need to transfer all the brackets over. Here is a look from some different angles. I would say there is a degree of variability with positioning the brackets, i.e they can be slid around in different directions before tightening the m down causing them to seem "way out" if it's too high for the bracket to go over the bolt then loosten and slide the bracket down a bit and fine tune it. I was lucky and it went in first time, but believe me when I say I know it's fiddly getting it in there. A tip when getting it into the arch is cover the back with a cardboard cut out to protect the fins from getting bashed in your slowly building rage at trying to get it past the brake disk. You will notice that there will be a gap between the ducting and your new intercooler. I had heard this was an issue and got some door draught excluder form B&Q although I would have liked to source something black and heavy duty, it is the right width for the job. Hope some of that helps and any more questions let me know. (Took me hours and hours btw)

I'll get some pics up and help you with this mate. 2 min

Write down your chassis code from the plate under the bonnet Jt164ja800.... Etc and phone your local Toyota garage for a part number/ price. It'll cost you between £22-£30 depending on discount and you can be confident it will fit. Here is a guide to fitting. http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?112368-Aux-belt&p=3832974#post3832974

Thanks, good to know. I wouldn't have thought to check costco.

Sorry don't know about the wheels, but I want your trolley jack!

Just used this guide to do mine, thanks. It took me about 15 min. What I did; Removed battery for more room Loosened top clamp on intercooler pipe and removed Loosened other clamp at bottom of that section and swiveled it round to face left 14mm socket set round the tensioner nut with short breaker bar over the shaft for more leverage Have wrench around 2pm position or as horizontal as possible. Push down as if to tighten and the tensioner will move letting you pull the slack belt off at the top right pas pully Remove belt carefully involving going round the fan. Put the new belt in place doing the reverse of taking it off using the diagram that should be in the engine bay (if not take a pic of it 1st?) Push down as if to tighten the nut on the tensioner to move it to slacken the belt enough Pull the belt over the last pas pully at the top right (set the belt up like this in prep for this moment) Re aline intercooler hose and tighten top and bottom Replace and secure battery Start and hear it purr again instead of squeaking Job done. Info is pretty much in this thread but I just went into a bit more detail incase it helps anyone in future.

been doing my de-cat all wrong.