shaz2010

I asked this a few months back mate. Here's one of the answers #rider One word of advice on exporting is let the buyer arrange all shipping and customs clearance (the shipping agent usually provides this service). Kingstown are one of the largest USA to UK or vice versa shipping agents. Otherwise you'll be in a whole load of pain from insurance cover (1% of value) and any damage or theft from the car (that happens a lot on cheaper RORO shipping, its less likely to happen if shipped in a sea container but it still does happen) during the transit period. I'd advertise on ebay.com, facebook and their main classics site classiccars.com My Mustang Fastback shipped over from the USA with Kingstown, nothing but praise for their service. You have to be on the ball though with getting all customs forms and documents to the agent in time and authority duty payments made (customs won't clear until that is done) for a quick turnaround. Each additional day beyond the two they give you in bonded warehouse racks up charges at an eye watering rate. There is no messing around time allowed, if any is required then that costs money.

I’m selling mine it’s a TT uk spec 040 but it’s auto. This summer I replaced the crank pulley, radiator, alternator, battery, bilstien shocks. Very clean I’ve owned it since 2013. I’ll pop some pictures up.

Thanks lads, I’ll have a look ont he classiccar website. Don’t want it to be a complicated sell, sounds like it could be.

I’m thinking about it Keron, I’ll give you a call tomorrow mate

Anyone got any advice how to list on their sites or auctions?

I mark cheers it came off with a bigger 1” t bar and longer scaffold pipe. Sounded like a gun shot when it first went. First attempt with the half inch punctured my radiator so I took mine into a local company called advanced radiators in Washington (Newcastle) and they sorted me with one. Practically the exact OEM. Putting it all back together tomorrow.

Well I got the crank pulley tool fixed up on the old pulley. Breaker bar and bit of scaffold tube on it so about 4 foot in total. Me and me father in law pulling on it and snapped the half inch clean in half. any ideas? With the locking tool in place holding well, is it worth putting the breaker bar on the floor and cranking the engine over?

Hi lads anyone in Newcastle that has one of these to borrow for a crate of beers before I go and buy one from Toyota. Any thing that will help me remove the crank pulley. cheers

Hi mate I got the alternator tested from a local place who bench tests them and it was fried. I’ve heard of these you got a picture of it or what it’s actually called? Cheers

Update: New alternator installed and now running the correct voltage while the car is started. BUT As I’ve not been out in her for a good 10 months maybe this is the reason. I noticed a screeching noise when I started it up just as it cranked over. I turned it off and had a look around the pulleys I noticed the tipex I put on the crank pulley years ago (6 maybe) had moved about a 1” and half! I pulled on the pulley and it’s starting to come away about 10mm movement while I was pulling it back and forward. So glad I never took her on a 20 min run to my father in laws Garage to do an oil service. Could have turned into a bit of a mess. So it’s on the drive and I’m gonna attempt to get the nut off the crank. Any advice would be appreciated. Seen loads of ways on YouTube. Father in law is bringing some battery windy guns down. Hope it comes off. Also keron says that’s why my alternator may have went bad ( rectifier was burnt out) after test done. Not getting the correct speed while running.

Update: New alternator installed and now running the correct voltage while the car is started. BUT As I’ve not been out in her for a good 10 months maybe this is the reason. I noticed a screeching noise when I started it up just as it cranked over. I turned it off and had a look around the pulleys I noticed the tipex I put on the crank pulley years ago (6 maybe) had moved about a 1” and half! I pulled on the pulley and it’s starting to come away about 10mm movement while I was pulling it back and forward. So glad I never took her on a 20 min run to my father in laws Garage to do an oil service. Could have turned into a bit of a mess. So it’s on the drive and I’m gonna attempt to get the nut off the crank. Any advice would be appreciated. Seen loads of ways on YouTube. Father in law is bringing some battery windy guns down. Hope it comes off.

I’ve had the alternator bench tested and the rectifier is shot. But for the age of it I’ll keep it and repair as a spare. I’ve ordered a new one off Keron. Coming tomorrow. I’ll check the test to check for any bad earths. Definitely need to strip out the original toad alarm. Heard they are a real battery drainer.

10.6v

After removing everything they seem ok?

Ok so 12v at the battery car not on, then started 10.6v. I’ve taken the alternator off. Any ideas of the values of the rectifier and the regulator? I’ll post a picture of the bushes they are very low.