Jos

Aaand she's in!, big thanks to Florian who helped me wiggle the engine in, it's a pretty tight fit but all went smooth. Now to get everything connected.... On the first pic my engine and Florians beautifull ride. Second pic, engine in, yahooo!!.

While fitting my prop shaft, I noticed the rubber doughnut on the back of the prop dit not fit flat to the diff flange, it's only 1 to 1,5 mm off but as far as I could find in the manual it should be nearly flat (less than 0,5 degrees off, see illustration). The angle can be corrected by spacing the centre bearing Is there anyone here who has experience in doing this, I already ordered a digital angle finder to try and correct the angle, but wondered if and how others did this. Some usefull info I found on the subject, although not supra speciffic: Driveline 101

Very nice!, this is gonna look stunning when finished, I love the attention for details. Keep up the good work

The engine is nearly finished, turbo's and stuff is back on , I'm planning on putting the engine back in next weekend, just have to sort some minor things and do an oil and filter change. How the engine is now:

Thanks Luc and Dave, as for the wiring, all i had to do is follow the labels I put on the wires, and hope none had come off in the process....

I find it difficult to believe you can fit the stock twins to that, as the OP asked...

You can drill and make a bigger thread for the tensioner, so you can fit a bigger bolt (M10 or 12 I think), that's how I fixed my tensioner, had the same problem.

I had a few hours left in the evening to work on the engine, until now this is the most fun part of assembly, the effort is starting to pay off So got the fuel rail in, put new fuel injector plugs on the loom, and the covers on, now only the turbo's and some small bits.

It have been a few busy weeks, but I'm starting to see the end now, everything is comming together nicely. The head is om the block, cams have been shimmed to the valves with mostly new shims. The gearbox and clutch are connected to the block, engine loom changed and since it was finelly nice weather here I could paint the last few items I need to finish the engine. If all goes well I'm hoping I can put the engine back in next week or the week after that A few photo's:

Ook welkom hier:cool:, lots of very good info here!, without this forum I would not have dared to do somuch myself on my own suup....

Thanks everyone!, @XM 1, I don't know the exact specs of the wheels, they are somewhere around 9.5 et 20 front 10.5 rear at 18 inch.

Brought my cilinder head away last week for cleaning, removing and fitting of valve stem seals and grinding the valves and seats. It was ready on friday, so could start rebuilding the head:cool:. I had to make some adapters for my el-cheapo valve tool to fot the toyota valves, works pretty nice now. On the pics you can see the reshaped valve and seat, and the fitting of the retainers, quite a fiddely job that is. I also put the buckets back in, had to order 12 new ones because they were not in the head when I bought it, next job is measuring clearance and shimming the cams, I have to work out what is cheaper, having the shimms grinded or buying new ones.

Thanks Fabian!, you are not doing bad yourself , would love to see your build once, but first try to get mine back on the road.

Have you already tried the firmest setting? I know someone who recently bought a set and had the same problem as you, but setting it on the hardest setting solved that. Or maybe try to get stiffer springs from driftworks?

If its a 6 spd prop taken from a car with big diff it will fit, but taken from a car with a small diff it wont fit, that is a longer propshaft I believe.

I believe HSD do not recommend upping the preload, and when installing they need only minor preload. But I don't know if it will do any harm when you increase the preload. edit: and yes, you will need to screw the 2 collars up for more preload.

I understand, that was not what I ment, but when the wheel bounces in it might just clear your arch, because of the extra camber that is generated then. I thought my wheels were sticking out too, but when I removed my springs and tried lifting the suspension and wheel up in the arch I noticed the top of the wheel moves inside, so they fitted perfectly

They look stunning!, I would try to fit these. I noticed on my car, the more the wheels get up towards the arch, the bigger the camber gets, so you might actually get away with it.

Nice work Fabian, the arms look very good, was it very difficult to get the bushes in?

I've been busy with the wiring, wanted the fusebox and battery gone from the engine bay so looked at the Turtleshead's guide, I liked the fusebox in the boot idea but wanted to do it a bit different. First unwrapped all the wiring, then cut out the parts to remove, and then reroute the wires that went from the engine bay inside, this way I did not have to extend all the wires, just the ones that were too short ?(which were still plenty ). Another advantage was that I could also clean up the wiring around the headlights. I did a little test yesterday, most things still seem to work , but had I known howmuch time this would cost I probably wouldn't have bothered. I also bought a Odyssey 30 as in David P's project, nice little battery and seems to fit perfectly in the back. Still have to sort the starter and dynamo cable, and wrap up at the boot, but this is as it sits now.

I have both the big diff and small diff driveshafts, and they are the same length, the width difference in the small and big diff is only 5 mm. And I believe the facelift driveshafts are a little thinner than the pre facelifts.

There is also a difference in propshaft lenght for the big diffs, these are shorter

I am looking foreward to this, going to be great fun, and I am working hard to get my car finished for JAF

Looking foreward to meeting some of the Dragonballers in Holland, and extra motivation for me to get my supra ready for JAF!

You can really fit it both ways, I've tried that, didn't have to remove battery since all the wiring is out , so nothing could get damaged electrically. The plug probably connects to a pressure switch or something, so it could be that it doesn't matter how the wires are connected to the internal switches (if that makes sense), will try to check when I have the time!