CanisLupus

Any chance you'd split?

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If you have an UK Spec Auto already, then keep the Gearbox, get a VVTI Lump and a Syvecs. The EU/UK A343E Gearboxes are stronger compared to the Jspec ones. Both gearboxes' Valve Bodies can be modified for harder and faster Shifts too. Combined with a Syvecs and Paddles you'll have a much better, faster and more fun to drive result than with just swapping stock parts over. As for UK spec vs Jspec Turbos. I'd just get the Turbos rebuilt with steel Turbines. Then the Jspec Units could make more power than EU/UK Units because they are a bit bigger.

Thanks for the offers guys. I forgot to mention that i have the ECU, Wiring loom, Switch and Motor. Previous owner just cut out the undertray and removed the mechanical bits including Lip etc.

As the title states I'm looking for an active spoiler. Individual parts are also welcome. Thanks

Boost Cut occurs at 1bar. Slightly under 1bar the Stock ECU does kind of a protection mode with the Injectors opening at 100%(or at least close to 100%). As the Supra has a narrowband Lambda closed Loop only is active when you see around 14,7-15AFR any other AFR Values are not closed loop. There also is NO Learning Procedure from the closed loop mode when entering open loop(confirmed that running E85 for testing purposes when i had an emanage ultimate years ago. Closed loop ran fine after a minute while open loop went crazy lean). First Turbo runs at leaner AFRs with approximately 12-12.5AFR, when second turbo comes online and the fuel system is working correct it drops to low 11s. Everything tried, tested and logged many times Personally i would not recommend running anything other than stock Turbos(EU or JSPEC would not matter that much) on the Stock ECU... apart from the Fuelling the Ignition Timing will not be correct too.

That would be a Turbo of the Garrett GT(X)28 Range or other same size Turbos from other manufacturers. Still ECU upgrade or piggy back are mandatory IMHO.

Too complicated... Just go into Sdata and hit Device and read data. After that several small windows appear where you click ok, yes, yes, clear and the log will be saved in the syvecs folder in downloaded Data(maybe in a sub folder). Locate the log files(.sd ending) and send them

There was a thread not to long ago re shimless buckets etc. In short they are not needed unless you are revving crazy high (8500rpm+) with extreme cams. GSC S2 will be fine without shimless buckets @8500rpm

Wet Paper towels do the job too

It's the noise filter for the igniter. Car will run without it

Can you adjust it? If not get a Turbosmart Raceport or Tial Q with the correct spring for your idle vacuum. Will work like a charm

Only way i could think of is an Oscilloscope to test this. The Test Patterns are available in the Workshop Manual.

14 is IGF Circuit. Could be the ignitor or the Ignitor wire from the ECU to the Ignitor.

The Vacuum is more than enough to open a BOV which is working correct and adjusted(if adjusting is available) correct.

Sorry for exaggerating a bit it may not have been dozens but i know of some Cars(including yours and mine) that had this hot start Problem. Some more pronounced some less and not all of them are in the UK or on this forum... This is why i too have answered regarding the Problem in your thread. Again the question: Is this a soft spot or why are you trying to analyze every word i write here and then try to make me look an idiot because of Details? There are other things that support my point re the Piggy back units and why i don't like them as much as a Stand Alone or well remapped/modded Stock ECU. But does it really matter what i think? Everything I've said was ripped apart because of details and/or naming that i didn't get correct. And again repeating myself: I'm not trying to take a piss at anyone here it is my opinion and I've thought I could write it without being "attacked"(bit aggressive term but i don't know how to call it in another way) because I've got a term wrong. If in any way you feel offended by anything I've said i apologize honestly.

Without mapping it will hit high 10s yes. But 11-12 is okay for BPU without Cats when remapped with a piggy back. There is quite a lot of tuners around that claim the wildest things... if he knew his work he'd know that over 12.5AFR the Power drops, the EGTs rise and the combustion is more prone to knocking. I'd say his Dyno is "a bit off"

The best way today is to get a stand alone. You sadly won't find anyone that will do the stock ECU apparently anymore as there was no market for it and it's deemed not mappable/moddable or whatever you want to call it. The cost efficient way is a piggy back. It will do its job. Bignum AFAIR the problem was solved creating an rpm cell for starting so you could influence the fuelling in hot start conditions to cope for the hot fuel building up bubbles preventing a good hot start.

Yup

May be the case did not pay much attention to naming as it's called chip Tuning over here in both cases.

Pictures re modded single Turbo ECU with Map Switching attached.... I don't know if I've caught a sensible Spot here. I respect your work on the emanage ultimate and followed all your work with big interest Ian. Don't get me wrong in that case. But for me a remap has always been modding either the software on the ecu or modding the ROM directly by unsoldering it and soldering it back on. But if it has another term for you then it's okay for me i won't get on hair-splitting whether it's modding or remapping it doesn't matter to the subject in the end. Fact is that a single properly mapped ECU will always be better than a piggy back system because you are not relying on modding in and/or output signals. You yourself had a year long problem with hot starts(which dozens of other users of the Emanage had too) because the emanage didn't cope for this right until you had a work around. Why would we change to a Syvecs etc if a Piggy back offers the same level of performance? It can't and never will. Re the article, I've had another one with more details about the turbos etc but can't find it in any way. Also many other links with Hex Tables of the Stock ROMs and such things are lost somewhere in the depths of the Internet. Thank my killed Laptop for this... I'm not trying to take a piss on anyone but I've done hours and hours of research and wouldn't be talking about it if i had not. P.s.: Opening an ECU and soldering the ROMs is done in no time with the right tools with no danger in destroying anything

As has been pointed out you can swap the sumps in no time and everything else fits 100%.

Where is the difference? If i take the ROM of and solder a new modded(or the old overwritten) one on it it's still a remap. That's the way it was done in the early days of remapping cars because there was no access to the ECU over OBD Ports or anything else. I've had it done that way on my cars... And it's not a cost thing in that way but more of a knowledge thing(though knowledge equals cost so you are right in a way ). You have to find the right tables and maps for a remap and that is still the case on modern Remaps but no one is looking into Standalones when doing it on modern cars. So what happened back then? Instead of taking the OEM ECU which was more than capable of running a single turbo(I'll find the pictures of the "modded" OEM ECU) and mapping it for the Setup they took a Piggy back and messed with timing and Fuelling which never was 100% as the stock ECU reacts in different ways in different conditions. And what could be more PnP than the OEM ECU with no need to interfere with signals or, without a patch harness, butcher the Stock wiring?? There were other things too that got lost due to the "simple and easy way" like Hybrid Turbos for the 2jz(those were already available 1994 or 1995), Transition Controllers etc over the years... slap on a big Turbo give it heaps of boost and control it with a crap Piggy back. Example given: http://mkiv.supras.org.nz/articles/motor2.htm have fun reading

The Standard ECU can be remapped. There even have been modded ECUs with map Switching. But as everyone was following the lazy ass americans piggy backs etc became the standard and the OEM ECU was deemed umappable...

You can get a full Aristo VVTI Engine with auxiliaries for 1699$+shipping... Comes out at 2000-2300$ depending on company that sells the Engine. If you add tax etc it will work out at 2000-2300€ and you'd have a fully working engine and car that will hold 700bhp. IMHO that would be the cheapest option for now. After the car is running you could still upgrade the new engine if you want to.