Morpheus

Yes, but I didn't want one Dave. Yours is very nice by the way! I had two white MKIII's and loved them but thought I'd go for some colour after six years. I would have kept the turbo auto but the headroom was just too tight and made my neck ache and thought I'd give a Smart a try and also to save fuel. False economy as the depreciation in 3 years cancels out savings for me although £35 road tax and 120 miles for £20 isn't bad compared to a Supra Turbo. Not good either but better. (Smarts are all turbos too, you know?) Mine absolutely flies along with the K&N induction scoop and filter! Anyway, the only other cars I seriously considered were utterly trumped by this one's overall appeal, given my taste and plans for the future. All things considered (and if you've read my posts you'll see that I do consider quite a lot of things for one lifetime; Did you know without any doubt for instance that 9/11 and 7/7 were both 'State' sponsored and that a handful of individuals control the entire planet via money supply and oil prices (like you didn't know that) and that there is a plan to microchip everyone on Earth very soon? Does anyone care? Apparently not, or you wouldn't be thinking I'm paranoid right now; you'd know yourselves!). Money doesn't really exist anyway and yet it affects virtually every decision we make, even life or death for some. I wanted an NA Auto exactly like mine, once I saw it. Originally a black topless one got me thinking (hmmmm ) but then I decided to get a black GT Four but I'm 6'5" and I saw Jeremy Clarkson on Youtube driving one and he had his knees wedged under the wheel with no headroom. My intention was to NA-T mine in approx. 2-3 years, once I've finished the GMC Typhoon engine and built a conservatory. Fuel economy is a factor too at the moment and although TT's might not be much worse than non-turbo's, it's tempting to blast it everywhere you get the chance; I do that in my Smart but it's cheap enough not to worry. Great little car but I just got fed up with the slow gearbox but it's perfect for work, so I'm keeping it for now. Funny how everyone slags the Supra off and then says that as long as I like it, that's all that matters! How the hell do I sell it in that case? Luckily, I have no such intention. BTW, anyone want very lightweight bonnet gas lifters? Can direct you to the best ones, Redlinetuning.com though haven't fitted mine yet. Exactly as stated on website, no bull, just pricey. Ermmm, which thread was this anyway? Sorry!

Which one, mine, yours or the orange ebay one? Mine's cool enough as it is, thanks!

Cheers, so that's why they never fixed it for the last five years! (according to MOT history online). Still, keeps it from rusting Oh well, will have to investgate the source properly and if it is the sump etc. and not just a screw-in item, I'll do it when (not if) I rebuild the whole engine. Easy peasy! That's why I bought an NA and not a bonnet full of spaghetti as I was originally going to, though the GTE's do look much nicer of course, just a nightmare to work on and so much more to go wrong. It's only a minor drip but enough for an MOT advisory. Not drinking oil yet thankfully. Probably 'only' the rear main seal Can't wait to get on with it but so much else to do before that. Got two more tonnes of ballast to shift into the back garden from the front lawn for the workshop project. Could try strapping the laptop to my shovel, I suppose........

Touche! Nice one Yep, more credit than sense perhaps but I love the look, have seen all of it, (even inside!) and I was only joking about the Scots being tight, as all Englishmen do (and infact really are!) I love Scotland (Hey, reminds me of Saving Private Ryan "I love America! F**k Hitler!") Click & listen to this! Gives me goosepimples! http://billyconnolly.com/ Reminds me, is Ben Nevis still there as I keep meaning to go back for another attempt at the summit. November isn't the best time of year..............

I nearly bought one from Peterborough, off ebay in Feb but the igniter had blown from jumping it (apparently a common problem and expensive to replace). Otherwise 'looked' immaculate in pics. Silver with silver OZ wheels, those 20 odd spoke ones and fully loaded. Might still be for sale but check ebay first as they sold a red one recently for half the web forcourt price. Can't remember the garage name. Just hadn't got a replacement igniter, that's all but said was willing to buy OEM if had to. I even found one on ebay for $99 but it sold in minutes!

Hey, it's The Stig after eating too much rice and drinking lemonade!

Mate, that hand dryer label Avatar is genius! Some ***king funny stuff on here! As for these icons......... As for bodykits, they are like Marmite to a bull on here. Mostly hated though, it seems!

Hi and welcome, I'm a Newbie too! I haven't read the whole thread yet but I think what they mean is that the photo looks like there are flat spots on the rims from bashing kerbs etc. but it's just pixellation, i.e. the resolution isn't high enough to show smooth curves.

I agree! Spoiler isn't my cup of tea though.......but hey, what do I know?

It's a big piece of me, I know that much! Sex on wheels! Probably bankrupted himself doing it (c'mon, he's Scottish, give him some credit - must have been like pulling teeth! OOPS, sorry L33) Hmmmm, wonder if he'll take part exchange?

Not done a 2JZGE Sump yet but I've completely rebuilt a 7MGE top end and it started first time and never had a single problem with it and I've recently replaced the sump pan on my ickle wickle bickle Smarty Car, if that counts and that used silicone too which hasn't leaked a drop since either (unlike the MKIV in question). Thank God for cardboard I say! Still got half a tube of Permatex Copper Gasket sealant if it hasn't gone off by now Don't worry, I have detailed files

Thanks for the pdf Sir and I'm not trying to get in any arguments here and it's all very good in theory but when you look at the actual components, there's no way the rubber ring design and especially fluids can absorb all these individual high frequencies efficiently (re. Newton's 3rd law of motion), hence my more 'crude' analysis. Christ, they even walk like my Typhoon one or even come off sometimes. "Tuned to one frequency" it says, confirming the inability of such a rotating mass to respond to anything but the average and largest shock loads from sudden changes in crank speed to keep the engine feeling smooth and if load transitions feel smooth, it's good for the rotating assembly but not critical for function and besides, the accessory belt and pulleys will do more to absorb load variations than the damper, which just adds more mass to the equation, as it can store more energy until release but it's a relatively slow process that effectively only happens at throttle, clutch and engine braking points. The smaller movements or higher frequencies require by definition, a much less flexible damper to carry them to the outer shell or ring. This averages out the flex by dragging on the crank (actually reducing power, hence lightweight alloy ones - ok, except the crank!), storing up the various load peaks then throwing the total back the other way when the macro load cycle has reduced enough to allow it to rebound. Rubber etc. just makes this rebound softer, that's all, much like Bungie jumping with elastic rather than rope. A solid pulley will do the same thing if tuned correctly (again, to only one frequency) but admittedly in some others will feel like the engine is knocking, I would imagine. I am of course totally ignorant in theory but I stand by what I said in practice, since my mind works in a very visceral way, much like the viscous dampers themselves. I literally feel and see things like this clearly in my mind's eye, (a scary place if I eat cheese before bedtime by the way!). Speaking of which

The Moth passed away at 01.20 hours for those that are interested, after it landed on my eyelash. Then the gloves were off!

Bit off topic but don't you just hate a Moth flitting about while you're eating your dinner and typing - and with the other hand, well errrr..........reading? I mean, what do they actually do anyway, except eat jumpers and hop about like demented kangaroos on speed? (only smaller and with bigger wings - obviously!) Yes, I am very special and I have a special car, so leave her alone you bully or I'll tell my Carer all about you Cheers all, keep it coming, good and bad. Will post decent piccies in garage soon, promise (but will no doubt regret it!)

Infact, it will make a great faceplate for my woodturning lathe!

Ok cool but as I say, I have big plans but probably won't fit the racing belt yet anyway, not until full rebuild. Just wanted to get it while I remembered it existed as I have several major projects on the go Anyway, you can't be too careful with an engine you aren't familiar with. For all I know, my tensioner arm could be stress fractured. Was a good excuse to check it out but if the new belt would be much stiffer and break it anyway, I'll hold off until I get a billet tensioner. Dampers btw are really for absorbing the stop/start acceleration/deceleration of clutch engagement etc. so would be less critical in an auto but you're right, big no no and it seems I have a lovely blue anodised paperweight now!

You mean why buy two belts or why buy any atall? The stock belts are fine but I have big plans....... To answer both, because I wanted to replace the one that's on there with a decent one (Gates Racing belts are decent arent they?) and two, because it's expensive shipping and costs an additional $8 for one more rather than $22 for one. I'll keep it as a spare and if anyone wanted it, it's for sale at cost price which would be half of the £105 paid plus postage. Not looking to make any money, yet Not until I start making custom parts but distant futureland, that is. As for the pulley, I bought a set of blue lightweight ones yes but if you reckon the crank one won't handle it, by all means say so? I'd have to look into it. Open to all advice and constructive criticism. The damper is seperate, is it not? Haven't even seen mine yet in detail. Any horror stories I should know about?

Ok, I've not even looked at mine yet but the rubber ring would be the harmonic damper and you're right, heat during dis-assembly might be an issue but I meant on re-assembly and only to use boiling water, not a torch. Hermetite is inappropriate, as you've found out. It's pretty useless generally as it doesn't dry hard so some decent silicone stuff from Permatex would be better. Will post details when found. Have it all on an engine building dvd but it's late now. If it's good enough for 1500hp V8 dragsters, it's good enough for a Supra anyway.

Price is really all a lottery, I mean, I've seen them go for £800 on ebay but it's the look I wanted. Had nothing but compliments so far from those that have seen it, except regarding the price paid but the way I look at it, only 7 short years ago they were £14k bone stock base model and mine has no body rust whatoever, only chassis components and it's really not that bad atall, very clean allround. Has an oil leak from the sump gasket but I'm a decent mechanic and will sort that easily. I did own a turbo auto MKIII until 4 yrs ago and that was ballistic left stock but this MKIV NA is no slouch either. It had 5 previous owners and they all seemed to add something to it, so for all I know, the engine might be built. Runs beautifully smooth, as does the gearbox. When's the next Pod meet then? Might take a gander at the competition but my GMC Typhoon will rip the paint off most of them by the time it's finished.........not that it matters, it's just a race Thought I'd add a disclaimer, just incase!

Oh yeah, hurt me baby, hurt me!

Awe, c'mon, can't anyone take a joke around here? It's been hours and no-one has slagged off my car! Oh, right, sorry, it's not your fault, you're all out enjoying the weather like I should be but this site is as addictive as ebay and so much to do! !

Obviously pressure/corrosion related. Best use a better sealant, tighter plug or tapered thread plugs (BSP or NPT 'grubscrews'). Do you use proper red Toyota coolant? Corrosion is your first suspect given that it lasted for some time. Crank pulley sounds like an interference fit so requires heat to seat then cool down tight. Be careful not to crack or bend the nose with leverage though. Immerse the pulley in very hot/boiling water before re-fitting to expand it. Dry first quickly, of course but should evaporate fast enough. I bought a set of alloy pulleys myself so will need to do mine. How did you find the crank bolt? Sposed to be a mare because it's threadlocked......

These are the servos I was on about; http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=140412154420&fromMakeTrack=true&ssPageName=VIP:watchlink:top:en

I'll second that, as I haven't met any of you yet! Whether you want to meet me is quite another matter but I do know a lot about engines!

Oh sorry, the ones I use are metal geared double ball bearinged for a tenner as mentioned. Tough as nails. Only problems are fluctuating pots making neutral slightly twitchy sometimes but for the money, you can't beat them; you can bash them though. Sure I've had a couple die for no reason but seriously, great servos for steering.