Morpheus

Who are the mythical 'Moderators' anyway? I mean, who exactly gets to sp*nk my membership fee up the wall down the pub then?

So, what was the club like in it's heyday? Rows and rows of identical unmodified UK spec. TT's? Sorry, twin turbos!

Chav? Where? Do you think he'll buy my car?

The main issue here is communication. Your friend isn't talking to her husband openly and looking elsewhere for what she could probably still get from him. People change but one only outgrows the other if they don't share their thoughts. Spend today gently finding out what made her leave her husband and letting her know that she may be making a big mistake with this new man. She came to you for help and although it isn't easy, try to help her but be firm about her boyfriend's behaviour. Not everyone can work things out for themselves, even though they may seem obvious to us. Ask her husband his version of events and always keep things mature and sensible. Chances are her new bloke couldn't care less about her anyway, so I think that you should urge her to return home and put it all down to experience (or inexperience!).

Great, isn't it! Just be careful dropping gears (esp. at higher revs) in an auto if you have one, like me. According to the User Manual, ECT/Manual mode is designed for holding one gear in snow and ice so there are no surprises changing up or down unexpectedly but not sure of it's durability for 'proper' manual use, which it wasn't really designed for, it seems. The ECT in the MKIII was so mental that it was practically impossible to use it anywhere safely but they seem to have ruined it. I want my old ECT back! Anyway, have fun (safely - if there is such a thing?) but be sure to allow the gearbox to cool down regularly, as it's the number one cause of failure in an auto box. Might be worth fitting a trans temp gauge and cooler to monitor normal vs. 'enthusiastic' driving temps. I'll be doing this myself someday........

Here you go, ebay link to item required but ask seller for correct part. http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/TOYOTA-STARTER-MOTOR-REPAIR-KIT-ALL-MODELS-VARIANTS-/290438923516?cmd=ViewItem&pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item439f8244fc

Hi again, just seen your car and it's looking great with a splash of colour to the engine bay! Makes a big impact! You can see the starter unit under the intake manifold on the nearside at the back of the engine and there's room to get in there, just. Looks an easyish job if you have the tools. Mine has clicked on occasion but only after a week in the garage. I forgot to mention, be very careful in future, as although you have the cheaper to replace igniter like mine, jumping a TT and presumably an NA can fry the igniter, (in black box ontop of nearside suspension mount for GZ and cast aluminium for NA, maybe later TT's) and you do NOT wan't to do that as it can also damage the ECU in the process. Igniters for the GZ's are about £350 new (apparently) and like gold dust on ebay. The reason I know this is because the GZ that I was going to buy had a blown igniter and the garage hadn't managed to find a used replacement, (which I did within minutes on ebay but it sold before I could tell him to buy it). He mentioned that his mechanic said that the ECU can also be damaged so I looked for an NA to convert later if I wanted to. Having said this, on later models, they changed the igniter to allow it to be swapped out on it's own and they're easily available on ebay for £20ish. Also (unrelated to this problem) if you ever need to jump the car with another battery, connect positives first directly then negative to the car chassis somewhere (any bare metal away from wiring etc. such as a bracket) and not to the car battery directly. This lowers the chance of blowing anything sensitive (ooer!) but it's main reason is to prevent explosion from hydrogen gas from the battery as the jumplead sparks when it touches, not that it's ever going to happen but for what it's worth, that's why. Also, it's better to replace the battery and charge it than to jump it if you have two, as although you're only connecting in parallel, the doubled capacity of two batteries does increase the peak amps available, as it doesn't draw or dip as much as a single one during startup, hence the issue of blowing igniters that may be sensitive to excessive amps.

Hi, sounds like you definitely have a worn solenoid contact which unfortunately will need replacing. Now, depending on the model, someone on ebay can supply a new kit for about £15-20 and save a packet if you do it yourself. Do not even consider any other diagnosis before addressing this first, as it's a classic case. They all do it eventually. It is not the motor (the humming noise you shouldn't hear) as they have four brushes and you'd have to run the thing all day and night for months to wear it out. As for the smoke, it will just be unburnt fuel from not firing properly if you let off the ignition before it fires up from repeated attempts where it engages but out of sheer habit, you try again when you don't need to! In the meantime, having a fully charged battery will help the spark jump better but it's really not an issue unless it's low. Obviously, (unless you've never experienced it before), multiple clicks with one turn of the key and dimming dash lights is a flat battery. The solenoid is the electromagnetic 'coil and pin' contact that engages the motor pinion with the flywheel or flexplate for an auto. They could easily design the solenoid to never fail but where's the fun in that? (Or the profit.......). Every time you start the car, a spark has to arc between two contacts and naturally, they corrode from repeated arcing. Once they get to your stage, the volts/amps available and the temperature and humidity will all be critical, as you've discovered! Probably ranks as the number one most frustrating car fault, since, as you say, once started it runs normally. So, you'll need to get the motor off and replace the copper contact and pin electrode but definitely not the motor at this stage.

Yeah, nice cars. Have you seen the Youtube vid with Clarkson comparing the Escort Cosworth with the Toyota GT Four? Unfortunately the sound on the clip I found was removed for copyright blah blah blah! Ruined it but I'll send a link if you like, if I can find it again! He preferred the Escort I think as he drove away in it at the end and bought one didn't he? Seemed to have much better interior and more room. I wanted a GT Four until I saw how tight he looked crammed into it and we're the same height.

To be clear, I'm referring to the one that was/is an extension of the roof with a central support circa 1997-98 ish. An example of a BIG spoiler!

Hi mate, Vin=Fin=Spoiler? It's not like it's a Veilside double Whaletail (remember the Whaletails the Escorts used to have!!?). I have a very open mind about such things though. As I've been told many times, "Each to his own". I really need to get some decent photos up, showing the proper proportions of this thing! Besides, the weight keeps the rear end planted, let alone the shape!

By the way, should the page update with new replies in realtime as confusion can arise if we don't all reload the page regularly or check each email prompt? Is there a FAQ somewhere for this sort of thing anyone? Been too busy using it to explore it all yet.

Thanks for the welcome and the insight! Trust me, if I do 'bite' it will not be pretty!

Oh come on, don't rub it in! Half of those whom welcomed me made it quite clear that my car was practically sacreligious! You'd think that I'd joined the wrong forum! I do however apologise unreservedly, for any offence my comments may have caused.

My apologies John, for apologising on your behalf!

Hi and please forgive the first reply but he was only being helpful ;-) Not all of the members share my enthusiasm for your car or have had the honour of owning what has to be the best value for money on the road today, the MKIII Supra! Huge specification (better than MKIV in many regards) but now so cheap that if you can afford the group 16 or 17 insurance (depending on turbos) then you're laughing! You're going to fall in love with this car like no other, I promise! (OOPS! Better edit this bit out too! Nah!) I miss mine already but I'm too tall for the standard seats and needed to know if the MKIV was better. Yes it handles infinitely better and has headroom for someone like me at 6'5" but looks notwithstanding, the MKIII has far better interior build quality. Those velour seats grip you in corners like leather never could. This is the car I wanted for many years throughout the noughties but couldn't find or afford and I even considered buying yours in February/March! Things to check (and this applies to all cars but some points specifically to the car in question); The pop-up lights for lubrication and if they don't raise and lower effortlessly (and quickly), oil the pushrod ends and cycle them a few times to spread it around. If they ever stop working, there's a manual knob to raise or lower next to the light. Obviously check all fluids regularly, esp. radiator overflow tank level and always use Toyota's red coolant, neat from the container. If any rust or particles in the coolant, flush with a hose and refill with above. Naturally, check for oil or other fluid drips in the morning and use fully synthetic oil and it will last twice as long as normal mineral oils, changing it before it gets too dark. Synthetic will still remain thin though, even when very dirty but best not to let it get that way, especially with a turbo or two! Mobil 1 is the best but Halfords in the silver bottle is a great alternative for half the cost. Both last ages. These engines effectively never wear out if looked after; they're so well made it's astonishing. Make sure that you check the cold start smoke level and if it puffs smoke but it goes away once warmed up you're ok for a while but it shouldn't smoke atall and should actually smell like roses (no kidding!). I think it's the red coolant. It's lovely, atleast through a Catalytic converter. If it does puff blue smoke on startup, the valve stem seals are worn out and the top end will need rebuilding (commonly called a 'de-coke') but I doubt that yours will need it yet but it's at that mileage where things generally begin to show signs of wear mechanically. Timing belt replacement date is critical and will be due at approx. 70-80k miles but best to have it checked and/or replaced anyway if not recently done with a sticker on the cover showing mileage and date replaced, (these come with the belts and must always be applied to the timing cover). Headgaskets are an issue with the 3 litre (replaced one myself) but not sure about the 2.5TT. Check the oil filler cap for a creamy yellowish sludge that is the result of coolant getting in the oil through the gaps in the gasket if it's degraded. The Toyota gaskets use copper water jacket 'rings' which corrode if the proper coolant isn't used and then water and cylinder (combustion) pressure blasts it away gradually. Basically your car should effortessly 'float' away under acceleration like it was nothing. Any sense of over-revving or struggling atall is a sure sign of cylinder compression being poorer than it could be or an exhaust leak etc. which has a surprising effect on engine power. This can cause misfires or an intermittent exhaust note, smooth but with occasional hiccups. Mine does it. A cylinder compression test is worth doing or if it's not running efficiently, the unburnt fuel will foul the sparkplugs etc. and build up on the pistons and cylinder heads which soaks up the injected fuel and causes poor combustion and low power. It also increases knocking or pre-ignition of the fuel/air mixture which in severe cases will bend rods or throw them out of the engine! Low cylinder compression is usually caused by only two things (besides loose or leaking sparkplugs, identified by a brown ring at the junction with the insulator and metal body); an imperfectly sealing valve to seat relationship or badly worn piston rings and cylinder walls but this is highly unlikely to ever cause poor running in one of these engines and certainly not at 66k. Valve/seat wear is though. Go on ebay and get CD manual covering the model for a fiver usually. I have three different ones for the MKIV. Some are more clearly reproduced than others, in .pdf format. There are obviously MKIII Owner's Club's where you'll receive the appropriate advice (and response!) but funnily enough, I never joined one even though I owned two MKIII's over a 6-7 year period. You did well to find your car and I'm pretty sure that I saw it myself when I bought mine on the same site but being in Ireland, the car was too far away. Looks fantastic and doesn't appear to need anything doing to it. If you've never driven a MKIII before though, one rule; lay off the turbos in anything but dry weather, or you might end up facing the wrong way, especially when pulling out at junctions. These cars are extremely tail happy with worn tyres, though your torque should be easily managable. Please be very careful and don't wreck a beautiful car (or anyone else's!). In my opinion, a quieter ride and generally better built and designed car than the MKIV, just not quite the handling but you do have decent suspension on this one, so who knows? Just make sure that it's setup properly by someone who knows what they are doing, as over/understeer can be induced by changing the front to rear settings. I'd ask for it to be setup for slight understeer for safety. Have fun and stay safe! Dave

Thanks Rob!

A perfect example of which I just gave below to back up a previous example but being sociable, I thought I'd respond to the apparent question. Could have been pure coincidence though and not directed at me. God I can be a bitch. I bet that's been said a few times!

Denmark is probably closer to the guys you bought them from in Scotland. They could probably just roll them across the sea! Anyhoo, I've been looking at the same wheels and ebay store myself (who needs tv with Youtube and ebay? ) and I was thinking about a set of these but in 19" although 18 looks like 19-20 with this design and I have 18's now and they're bumpy enough as it is, plus potholes etc. Also the old tyres could be swapped about if necessary in an emergency and there's a flat spot (how the F***!!?) on the front right which causes steering wobble at 60+. Thought it was tyre imbalance but rotating on the jack showed it up. Sure it looked round on the Sunday night when I viewed the car! What's your honest opinion as to whether they'd suit my car though, regardless of still available or not, as I'd narrowed it down to these anyway? No, with the spoiler! Could collect if they'd go in the car.........?

Mine? Not yet as too embarrassed by the bodge job someone made of the rear speaker panels. They just fired some dirty great silver number 12 (5mm thread) woodscrews straight through the suede! Bit dirty generally from the previous owner stroking everything and telling everyone else too so you can imagine the grime but I had the vision to see past these minor flaws and appreciate the beauty within! Others may not, however!

This is true. As a Newbie, I've found that most people are quite diplomatic while giving 'styling advice'. Now, I'm sure that you're not referring to my baby but I've been told that "As long as you like it, that's all that matters", more times than I can remember already! Wait until you see the interior; I'll have to put on a Nomex suit to read the response to those photos!

Sorry, were you beginning to fall for me? Awwwwwww! They do say that men start to turn gay if they go too long in an all male peer group. Working as a Joiner, that should make me worse than Alan Carr by now!! (But it didn't, I mean, obviously!)

See, told you!

Good for you and thanks, I think!

I know Dave, you didn't slag off my Supra, before you say it.