Morpheus

Bear.

It probably just means that you have to bolt it on with one of those newfangled upside down screwdrivers.

Stone.

Handshake.

Stick! (Tattyfallarious!)

And that!

Not sure about the 60mph issue as it sounds too much like an electronic problem as you say but the stalling is otherwise absolutely indicative of poor compression like a BHG or loose spark plug etc. which in turn could be confusing the various sensors. Do you have an oily throttle body interior or intake piping? I'd do a compression test first to eliminate it from the equation. Being an NA doesn't help though for accessibility so the intake Y section and piping will have to be removed to check the plugs but if it's very oily and dirty inside, your PCV system may be fouled up, (I think!), causing blowback from the crankcase. A leakdown test is also a good idea at your car's age and with stalling being an issue. MkIV Supras are not known for having blown head gaskets (unlike MkIII's!) and this doesn't seem to be the problem here but a vacuum leak or dirty throttle body could restrict enough air at low rev's to stall it. Still, could just be a bad ground connection from the ECU to the chassis as this causes all sorts of problems.

Nice. Does it connect to the giggle pin or the laughter shaft? The Dubry, that is. You wouldn't want to discombobulate it!

What's one of those when it's at home then? Pics or it didn't happen!

Lathe.

I knew your car would attract a lot of pussy! What's your secret David?

Dead.

Journey.

I've been looking for the same info recently Jamie and this search seems to have come up trumps by the looks of it. I just did an advanced search for keywords 'Stock 17 Offsets' but for some reason I can't link straight to it; just says "Sorry no matches". Entering it into the standard search box yields a different but equally fruitful result, at least for my purposes! One of the threads in the advanced search list is about the best handling setup too btw. I'm still trying to decide which can of worms to open first!

Skywalker.

White spirit?

You sound totally guttered. Pipe down and don't get your goat up.

Subterranean.

Acting.

I Ho ho ho deer! You should have bucked up your ideers and asked someone deer to you to get you the pipe as a present and Santa would have deer-livered it on Christmas Eve! You obviously have no-eyed-deer David.

Steve

Stone.

If there's a possibility of it happening again any time soon, don't even waste your time or all your hard work will be for nothing. Trying to blend those scrapes in with a Dremel will probably make it worse compared to a wet EZ-Lap (DMT) diamond file or wet and dry paper and water wrapped tightly round a small wooden block. Ideally the tyres would be removed so you could run your thumb or fingers around the lip to maintain uniformity of pressure and cut. You must maintain a straight 'cut' along the rim or it will just look dubbed over and rounded. The only way to do this properly is to weld it and reshape on a lathe, as a professional would/should so don't expect to not be able to see it if you do it by hand. If a professional repair is out of the question and filler and paint are obviously not appropriate, your best bet is to blend the area in as widely as possible but then you're into undamaged rim and serious elbow grease usage. The only way to effectively hide it though, is by creating as shallow a lead in and out of the gouges as possible. Using your fingertips with abrasives will follow the bumps and ruts so keep in mind that what you're trying to achieve is to take off the high spots only, as with a file. If you do use a handfile, use a single cut draw file, cutting forwards only, lifting off to re-position at the start of each cut. Failure to do this will drag filings back over the area, scratching it badly. This results in the removal of the bare minimum of material around the deep scratches and is much faster than wet and dry paper for the initial reshaping. Because of the deep gouges though, I would seriously look into having it done properly with a welder to build it back up first, rather than take the surrounding rim down to the damaged level, which you'll have to do to hide it. I haven't looked into metal aluminium fillers but I'm sure there must be a decent one available for the worst bits that will polish up. Sanding or filing, you'll soon realise that you'd be better off filling the deepest gouges somehow, rather than trying to blend them out.

Vince.