Morpheus

Dance

Mittens

G27 for sure with GT5 but Logitech do one specifically called GT Force I think but pedals aren't as good as G25 or G27 by all accounts. Way cheaper though and wheel is still good they say. I didn't find the G25 particularly good in GT5 Prologue as there's no adjustment available but it worked well enough. Nothing like as good as Grid or Dirt however. G27 has more buttons as you'll know and these do work apparently in GT5 but aren't as easy as the GT wheel which also has the red brake balance/trim knob. I don't know if the GT Force works with the G25/27 pedals but that would be the best combination if it does. I have a two year old G25 and was thinking of upgrading to a G27 and paid £160 I think. Might accept £100, offers considered. I added cushioning pads to the pedal stops, as they're hard metal to metal contact with the internal base plate at relaxed position and they're quite noisy otherwise. Quite why they didn't sort this out themselves I don't know as they'll be predominantly used in bedrooms and drive people nuts! G27 has more travel and adjustable pedal positions, left/right. BTW, I still don't believe the release date!

I have the same issue as my car has been sitting for a good while until I bought it and if you have a piston that won't back off due to corrosion, the slightest rotor runout will bind. To solve the problem, (for those that don't know), pump the brake pedal with ignition off until the pedal feels solid at which point the pressure should be backed off of the pistons. Then jack the binding corner up, pull on the rotor opposite the calliper or insert a lever of some sort to loosen the pads, remove them and then carefully remove the calliper, rotor if required, and then the piston by turning on the ignition and gently applying the brakes until the piston pops out into a bowl or tray. It will need to be fully removed to do the job properly. You'll need a litre of brake fluid and a couple of jars or containers for bleeding later, not covered here. Needless to say, avoid contact with skin if possible and car bodywork. Former is unrealistic though. The problem will be rust (and it only has to be a very small amount) around the piston bore or cylinder lip, where the rubber seal doesn't cover it. The seal sits in a groove and can be removed once the piston is withdrawn. You then need to use very fine wet and dry abrasive paper (say, 400 grit or over) to rub the rim smooth where the corrosion occurred. Even if it appears that there's nothing to remove, it will make all the difference, since the piston is a near interference fit in the bore to prevent leakage. The piston itself will also need to be checked for surface finish by using a Stanley knife blade or similar scraper for obvious bumps (being careful not to scratch it) and then very fine steel wool or the paper used for the calliper rim to polish the surface. A very fine single cut (draw) file or diamond hone (Ez Lap etc.) is ideal. Once thoroughly cleaned and checked for smooth operation by hand insertion of the lightly oiled piston, you need to insert a new seal or the original if it's still rust free (as rust sticks to the seal too) and then it gets fiddly, as you need to insert the seal into the groove in the calliper, then the oiled piston into the inside out seal and then when the piston is nearly inserted fully, you obviously have to get the lip in the groove on the piston before fully pushing the piston home. The main problem will be having slippery fingers but there's a knack to it. Hope that helps someone! I've done this a few times and it works a treat but a couple of hours for each calliper maybe. Messy job but won't need doing again. Be careful with copper grease or similar near the rotors, as it gets thrown everywhere once it heats up but it's a good idea to apply some around the seal to prevent it happening again for a long while.

Cool, just return them. No worries.

Ok, I have exactly the same lights and bought some new UK's a while back so can swap at weekend if I can get the bulbs in time and let you do mine how you said. My car is Greenish Grey Mica Metallic (1B9) but may sell the facelift lights anyway once UK's are fitted and happy with them. Make an offer? I also have a new pair of facelift rears which I can fit to mine and sell the originals, in very good condition. No visible scratches and certainly nothing that a buff wouldn't remove as I'm sure they won't be as new after 12 years. Still, they look practically new. Original driver's headlight has good chrome rings but nearside has yellow showing around parts of two largest rings, so a refurb' is definitely in order.

Personal

Matt

Hill

Jack

Cheers, what size are the caps? I have some 58mm chromed spare.

I vaguely remember someone somewhere saying that it's only in the rallying.

Piece

Warp

Mind

Zodiac

Leo

Pharaoh

Tower

Horn

Ok Jim, I have my virtually identical car (no spoiler and stock 17" original wheels) in the garage now so if no-one has bought these by next weekend, I'll pop down and see them. Again, don't anyone worry about me showing an interest as I've spent enough this year. You'll be doing me a favour! In the meantime, anymore close up photos Jim? The more the better, as everything looks like new at a distance. You did a great job with Photoshop by the way; very clever stuff and very much appreciated!

Mat

I hope so. Apparently it's nothing to sniff at.

Regent