Morpheus

Seen this? (Forgive the advert, it's worth it). https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3fnTZKvX5jg If I had the money, the 918 would be the ultimate if I could get in one.

Sort some photos out for your garage!

For roughly how much if you don't mind me asking in public? Incase you can't remember, you really hated me but after a while then almost liked me the last time I was on here!

You might want to edit that post slightly as unfortunately the forum also has strict rules. You can get away with it if they like you. Or in my case, grudgingly tolerate you - just!

It's not all advantage with a TT and you'd miss the NA for it's punchiness and throttle response at lower speeds which is where you'll probably spend most of your time, in traffic. I know I do. Ditto if you do a lot of motorway driving. It's all very frustrating and you might as well be driving a 600cc Smart ForTwo most of the time. A TT is only good for the open road when you can get a gallop on and take advantage of it's better acceleration in third gear and above where the NA bogs down unless you rev' the bejesus out of it holding it in gear to the redline. A lot of people who slag off NA's haven't driven one much and learned to drive them fast. It just takes more work and much higher rev's, which fortunately, they provide smoothly and without breaking a sweat. The strongest g-force acceleration I've ever felt was definitely in the NA. They're like rockets in first and second up in the rev's. Maybe it was just mine? Epic fun. They're two very different animals but they are still both animals. I'd happily buy another NA if I didn't have the TT. As long as I had another turbo'd vehicle as well.....

Most important for judging an engine's likely internal condition is if it was from a manual or an auto. Autos just don't rev' very highly throughout their life compared to manuals, that are usually over-revv'ed at each gear change to allow for the drop off in rev's between gears rather than when it's best for the engine. Manual Supras can accelerate so fast in first and second that they inevitably hit 4-5000 rev's even when being driven casually and it's incredibly habit forming and addictive. All this increases engine wear dramatically.

I have an unused pair of D2 Racing 8 pot fronts with 356mm rotors I bought about 4 years ago, still 'new in box' but didn't want to fit them until I also bought matching rear 4 or 6 pots to keep them balanced. In the meantime, due to failing the MOT with Jspec fronts both binding severely and upon inspection, the rotors having heavy scoring and pitted areas with craters and cracks on the inside faces from asymmetrical overheating, I just bought some UK fronts to get me through the MOT from a very nice man in Scotland called Daniel aka madpanda11 on here and they are easily capable of activating the ABS on a dry road and don't need upgrading in my opinion except perhaps for track use from what others have said. I still have stock Jspec rears that have seen better days so might be looking for UK spec's if they're bigger/better/worth replacing/available cheaply but frankly, apart from potential track fade, I can't see how you'd need better performance for road use. I mean, it doesn't do the suspension or tyres any good for a start to brake so hard that you lock up the wheels in the dry, (or would without the ABS kicking in which is my point). Basically, unlike the Jspec's, the UK 4 pots are appropriately rated for the car and it's weight and simply work properly including emergencies and instead of worrying if you'll stop you just apply as much pressure as you need, to stop. I have a pair of Toyo Proxes T-1R on the front and Uniroyal Rainsport 2 on the back on 19" Team Dynamics Jade R wheels and it handles fantastically compared to the narrower stance/tread stock 17's and the UK brakes just made the car fun to drive again after 4 years of getting used to it. Money spent better elsewhere in my opinion until the UK's actually prove inadequate. Another advantage of keeping the UK brakes is that you can buy larger diameter, wider 18"-19" wheels to MASSIVELY IMPROVE HANDLING even on stock suspension and still fit the old stock wheels over the brakes with proper, no compromise winter tyres when needed.

This NSX would be fun. http://jm-imports.co.uk/index.php/1990-honda-nsx-route-k-widebody-5-speed-manual/ Also, if you haven't checked Rob's channel yet, here he discusses the pro's and con's of owning one very expensive car vs. several cheaper ones.

These look better on a MKIII though still very nice here. When I owned a couple of MkIII's these were the wheels I wanted. Note the lack of response when posting threads late at night? At least, I think that's why mine never got much attention!

An Audi R8 perhaps? That would be cool. Probably the only car that I would actually give up the Supra to own. That or an RS6 Avant for purely practical purposes as they're almost as fast and awd but the fuel economy as an only vehicle would suck.

Most experienced members would recommend that you simply buy a cheap TT and save the hassle like I did. I owned an NA and when I looked into it, turbo reliability seemed to be a major issue for some people. I even bought a second hand '700-1000hp rated' twin scroll XSPower turbo off ebay for £90 and whilst it looks ok quality it only has oil cooled sleeve bearings and that's not ideal. It may go on the truck eventually for a laugh. The seller said it had too much lag bolted to his VW Corrado!

Also, a fuller wallet.

A GMC Syclone is next on the shopping list when finances and parking spaces permit so we're talking several years time when I've moved house. Otherwise I'd have to get rid of something else first and it won't be the Supra. I have plans for it involving a certain German toll road beginning with 'N'. This is a detailed walkaround of Jay Leno's Syclone. I already have it's bigger SUV equivalent, the Typhoon. I only bought a MkIV Supra, (after owning two MkIII's - an NA 5spd and a turbo auto), as an interim measure whilst I rebuilt the 4.3L V6 turbo truck engine but have since bought another 4x4 truck; an Isuzu VehiCross for severe winters and offroading if I ever get round to it. This Typhoon is slightly modified up against a Supra........ This one isn't, up against a TT Supra..... This is the fastest Syclone....

You said it right there. Someone probably abused the downshift in manual mode from third to second on the stick and overheated the box, causing whatever it is that happens when you overheat an auto gearbox - 'component failure', that's it! The electronics won't allow high revving downshifts to protect the internals so it could be overheating damage from thrashing about in second for too long. It is very addictive afterall! I'd fit a decent transmission oil cooler whilst you're under there if you have time. Good insurance. Heat is the number one enemy of mechanical systems, particularly in the case of auto gearboxes apparently. Look for any signs of cracked 'o' ring seals and such that may be causing a leak or loss of fluid pressure and subsequent failure to engage manual control because the ECU's are sensing a fault. These things are highly self-protective but in manual mode you can't stop people from over-revving for long periods and burning stuff up. An OBDII reader or proper diagnostics should surely help? Ditto the 'check the wiring' comments but I blame overheating abuse, which of course could cause bad connectors in the box perhaps. The display should still show manual gear number selection when the stick is shifted to the right out of D into M, as Chris said so I would suspect the shift sensor on the stick unit itself, since it's microswitched and not mechanical from the feel of it. I've never had any issues with my Tiptronic in 4 years but I only use manual mode for engine braking in slow traffic to hold it in low gears and avoid constant braking/accelerating cycles. 94k miles and still drives like new, not that I ever drove a new one. Still speed limited which also keeps the engine and gearbox in good condition, since high rev's = overheating.

"Sell the kids for food". Kurt Cobain. Nirvana. Many more detailed photos and preferably video needed, including the engine bay to get any useful valuations. For example, mine looks as flawless and polished as yours at that distance but upon closer inspection it really could do with a full respray to satisfy the connoisseur. You have to show it at it's best, close up. Otherwise people will assume that there's something to hide. Photos always make cars look better than they really are from a few feet away.

Come to think of it, I did have to replace a rear bulb the other week when the brake filament snapped. Only lasted 18 years!

There are some properly fit women in Belgium and I wouldn't mind importing one of them into the UK! Do you take part in the National bird singing competition every Saturday morning or the guess where the cow will crap contest?? I saw a documentary once with Jeremy Clarkson when he went there to document the hobbies and lifestyles of the Belgians.

My rear trailing link arms were an advisory last year for corrosion but weren't even mentioned this year since I scrunched the top layer of rust off between my fingers like Weetabix! All trademarks are the property of their respective owners and in no way do I intend to imply that Weetabix tastes like or has the same consistency as rusty car suspension components, (although it did bear a striking resemblance to my old MKIII Supra rear wishbones, as I recall). Indeed, Weetabix is infact an enjoyable and wholesome product of significant nutritional value, particularly when sprinkled on food.

You could always Diamondyze the pistons and coat the valves and chambers. They claim to be unable to get their test engine to knock under any circumstances after treatment. http://camcoat.com/main/ http://diamondyze.co.uk/test-results/

Just being pedantic, correcting a correction. All in jest.

Actually it's, "You are". Sorry; it is "You are". That is to say, your you're is you are. Don't you just hate it when people get them around the other wrong way? They say, "You're" when they actually do mean "Your". It's even more annoying and inexplicable. A bit like me!

"Dangerously" binding front Jap brake calipers since I drove 400 miles up the M1 and A1 to Edinburgh and back when they'd just salted the entire journey. Yey. It wasn't even wet. Had no problems until then. Ridiculously reliable cars, hence so few replies I guess!

Athlete.

Pipe.

Rain.