lonbhold75

Nope, Lakenheath Not sure the color, let me check with the individual I bought it off of and get back with you. Not sure if I was able to get it if I could do it any faster as most my mail is via military mail. So goes space available, which can take up to 6 months to arrive. However most stuff arrives in about 2 weeks. His name wouldn't happen to be Josh by any chance?

Thanks everyone for the warm welcome

The reason I am buying everything from the states is because I get paid in dollars an am in the US Air Force serving in the UK. So the Air Force is shipping it over for me and generally parts are cheaper for me over there even with shipping. Thats also the reason for the LHD, I would love a RHD one, but makes no sense to invest all that money only to have to sell it before I leave. I looked into getting a RHD into the US, and the easiest way is to wait till its 25 years old, so I would have almost a ten year wait, no thanks. I would prefer the OEM skirts, mainly do to the fact I think they would be more durable than fiberglass. Dave

Hello, Been lurking here for abit. Finally purchased my first Supra. Here are a few pics as I am still awaiting its arrival from the States. Already have accumilated a few bits for its arrival. Like an original front bumper with active spoiler, Greddy rear wing, power folding mirrors, and soon possibly a CW SMIC. I plan on keeping the stock twins, but may go hybrids if and when the current ones go. Would however like to find a set of OEM JDM side skirts, only place I have found any so far is in the states. Thanks for looking and allowing me to be a member of such a great forum. Dave

You can count me in, just let me know when and where to send the deposit.

I am interested, just curious about payment method.

I did a search both here and on supraforums and found the below which should assist you in your delima: This was copy and pasted direct from MarkSupra33 on supra forums Okay, let's start off by answering your question. In the diagnostic port that you speak of, nothing is in there but ports. If you look on the bottom of the cover, locate where the TE1 and the E1 ports are. Take a wire (pretty much a standard wire with both ends uncovered from their protective covering and put one end in the E1 port, and the other end into the TE1 port. Once the wire is in place, go put the key in the ignition and turn the car's electrical system on. Once you do this, look on the left side of your dash on the warning cluster, and you'll see you MIL light blinking. The MIL light is the one all the way to the right of that cluster over there right below the security light on the left side of your dash. Okay, so count how many time it blinks, and there will be a pause between certain numbers. I'll bet you it blinks 4 times, then you get a pause, then it blinks twice. This would signal code number 42, you see? Okay, so if it blinks like this, then continue reading, cuz I know how to fix it. If it doesn't blink at all, you either are not throwing a code, or your cluster is broken. To see if it's broken or not, it should light up when you turn the car's electrical system on automatically, then go away. Anyhow, here we go with code 42:This is a glitch in the speed sensor signal. Your speed sensor sits on your auto tranny bellhousing. It sends a signal up into the odometer, gets buffed in the odometer, then is sent back out and into the guage cluster (tachometer, speedometer) Even with this problem, your odometer will STILL WORK, and so will your speedometer and tach. However, the signal is still messed up somewhere, and you'll get the annoying blinking O/D OFF light, as well as possible gear-searching with the auto transmission at low speeds (it searches for gears randomly, and is not fluent.) If you use the rip odometer functions, they will randomly reset when this problem occurs. It will also keep the cruise from working. Okay, now how to fix it:Here's the free fix: Open up your dash and look at you odometer harness. You'll see a group of three wires back there. One's brown, one is pink, and one is blue/red. Ignore the brown one. The pink wire brings the signal INTO the odo from the speed sensor. The blue/red wire brings the signal FROM the odo to the tach. Normally the problem is in the odometer, which will need replaced. However, you can bypass it by CUTTING the pink wire on the harness, then splicing it into the blue/red wire. This way, the signal bypasses the odometer and goes right into the blue/red wire to go into the tach. If you read my thread, you'll see that this SHOULD solve your problem. Other possibilities are a failed speed sensor (but then your tach and speedo wouldn't work), or a screwed up guage cluster. Most likely it was the odometer. Keep in mind that this theoretically bypasses the odometer, but it MAY NOT fix it and the odo may still need to be replaced. But it's worked on almost everyone I know. Anyhow, go ahead and do that splice trick, and then your O/D light should go away, your tranny should shift fine, your cruise should work, and you should be okay. After the splice trick, reset your ecu. Then plug the harness back in, put back together your dash, and give her a shot!. Keep in mind that everything will still clock up correctly. This splice trick has NO downfalls except for the fact that you hack up a wire on your harness. Just make sure you left enough room to splice it back just incase it doesn't work. Other than that, hopefully this has solved your problem. It takes roughyl 10 minutes to do, if you're an amateur. Let me know if this works or not, and let me know if I can help you in any other way Hope that sorts you out. Dave