Iky

There is a driveshaft dust shield on the rear, this seems to be made of stainless. mine came out undamaged when I removed the rear oil seal. I will be reusing it as it's just a guard not really a seal.

http://www.firstline.co.uk/ts4/f_graphic_show.php?graphic%5B%5D=FBK+691.jpg&product=Wheel+Bearings&action=graphics If you need it- User-ID : 16256 Password: password

The bearing is not that expensive, but if the hub flange is damaged then it's about £180-£200 from Toyota. Labour probably a few hours, It depends if the garage has the correct tools. It took me the most time to get the lower arm balljoint off since it's quite big and normal off the shelf tools don't fit correctly. The other two smaller balljoints came off piece of piss with a scissor type remover. I was extra carefull not to damage the balljoint rubbers though. I reccomend going to one of the traders on here as they will have the correct bits to press the bearing/flange/dust seals in correctly.

FRONT http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Toyota-Supra-3-0i-twin-turbo-Coupe-RWD-1993-1996-FRONT-WHEEL-BEARING-FBK690-/290736112830?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item43b13904be REAR http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Toyota-Supra-3-0i-turbo-Coupe-RWD-1989-1993-REAR-WHEEL-BEARING-FBK691-/290632630898?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item43ab0e0272 MK3 and MK4 Supra's are the same.

Oh yes, most kits seem to come with new seals, the old ones were damaged on removal anyway. The driveshaft flange came out without any damage so i'm going to reuse that.

Got it off! It's not the bearing that I found difficult, it's that bastid of a balljoint thats on the lower shocker arm. Its the taper bit thats wide and long. The normal scissor remover type is just a touch too small for it even after I grinded a bit off to make it open wider. The jaws are at the wrong angle and slip off. I perciveered (sp) with some penetrant spray and a hammer the fook out of an extension bar with a socket on it. Luckily I got it early so the hub looks fine. Just waiting for the new bearing to turn up and then I'll get a local garage to press it in. Should I bother doing the driver side or should I wait for it to screw up? I've heard the passenger side is more prone to falliure from driving through puddles or is that a myth?

Is this any good to use on these? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Sealey-Ball-Joint-Remover-AK381-/120627525704?pt=UK_Measuring_Tools_Levels&hash=item1c15f5f848

There doesn't seem to be enough room for a good swing to smack the balljoint out. Why is 3 a bad idea David? so I know. Thanks Nic, but I've already had a look at that before I began. Toyota's SST's make it seem easy enough. But I don't have that luxury unfortunately That's exactly what I was worried about, usually i just clout the side of the part where the ball joint taper fits and it pops out but not this time. Tie rod ends are easy enough but these are buggers of balljoints. I've been trying with a 8mm flat end punch to concentrate the force where I need it but it's just damaging the hub carrier. I don't really want to replace the carrier as they are in pretty good condition.

Sorry, should have mentioned, all nuts/bolts are loose but i just cant get the three ball joints out the taper.

I have a few questions regarding bearing replacement and the balljoints in the rear. As always any help will be much appreciated 1)What tools would be best to remove all three baljoints? 2)Is there one tool that will do all three? 3)Is it possible to replace the bearing with the hub carrier still in place? Cheers, Iky. P.S If anyone local has removal tools to help, I would be extremely gratefull if you would let me borrow them F.O.C or a small fee.

Just checked, they are the same.

I can't confirm 100% but doubt it as the oil capacities are slightly different http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?56684-FAQ-Oil-Fluid-Interval-Capacity-Steering-Brake-Coolant-Diff-Engine edit, - I will check tomorrow if I can remember, my brother has a N/A It just hit me!

But you can do it anyway by just putting it into 2nd. It sounds a bit odd to me if I may say so. If your not flooring it your in 2nd/3rd anyway. Or am I missing the point?

Probably best keep a short length of hose on it. Incase the water pump does screw up. This way it will avoid it going all over the alternator and killing that.

Yes, my 17" space saver fits over uk spec brakes.

Nice purchase Geo. Welcome back! Kudos to Jurgen, a great trader

Hows about getting the spokes polished if you want a change? Otherwise they look great.

Possibly. They're not that expensive from rockauto, worth replacing it anyway if it already hasn't been due to the age of the cars.

Flawless, nice wheels as well

Very nice Jake, love that copper colour!

It might come off easy by gently heating with a hair dryer to soften the glue. Use a plastic/rubber card to scrape it off carefully. In my opinion its placed to high anyway. The bottom swage line is what sticks out the most and hits on stuff first.

Looks in great condition that, congrats!

This might be a cheap fix for you. Worth a shot for what it's worth I think. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/TOYOTA-SUPRA-MK4-JZA80-3-0-inc-TT-TWIN-TURBO-STARTER-MOTOR-SOLENOID-REPAIR-KIT-/290746791629?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item43b1dbf6cd

You can get fine wire wool. That should work well. Or probably even some oven cleaner.

BD19. in Cleckheaton.