Iky

Cool, based in Cleckheaton myself. Might see you around

Wiring was a bugger, because I wanted it connected up to the fusebox to look like stock. I added two relays (one for each seat) and ran wires under the carpet to each seat. I had to buy a connector for the switch from Toyota, that cost a fair bit as I had to buy the terminals which were something like £3-4 each. You can just bodge it by soldering to the switch direct but I didn't want to. There is a circuit diagram on here- http://mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?4811-Heated-Front-Seats&p=52213&viewfull=1#post52213 The way i did it was from the switch, wires go to the two relays, I conveniently mounted these on a screw on the heater channel behind the stereo on the left. Then wires from the relay go to the fusebox under drivers kick panel and also to the seats under the carpet. Hope thats any help to you, Photos would have been a good idea but didn't think of it at the time.

Nice looking seats, they should look great in a Supra.

UK spec and Canadian/US spec (whatever that is) You can of course retrofit them. I have done the wiring but have not got round to fitting the elements in the seats yet.

Hi Kelvin, To be completely honest, you're best scouring the classifieds to find one nearby to take a test drive and see what you think of it. As mentioned, it's all subjective to what you've been driving. If I drive my brothers Volvo v70 estate and then drive mine immediately after, the suspensions feels very stiff. After a while of driving mine it's back to normal again. Smooth as anything. I'm 5'9" (I think!) I've been a passenger in the back for a long drive and didn't find it too bad. I had my knees at either side of the front seat though. Found it more comfortable that way. And I own a 200SX, same era as 300ZX's and can honestly say that build quality is so much better on the Supra than the Nissan. Welcome to the club chap and I hope you make the right descision

Welcome, That colour looks pretty nice! Where abouts in Yorkshire are you based?

Try checking if you have a sticky brake caliper, easy to check- see if the wheels get hot after driving around or jack up and see if all wheels spin easy. Best to eliminate the easy jobs first before moving onto others.

They are just nylon locknuts, nothing special apart from probably having a fine thread pitch. Mine still seemed fine but if you have doubts you should easily be able to get new ones from any fastner supplier. As long as the thread on the balljoint is fine. That's the main thing.

You might have got grease all over the balljoint taper bit. I carefully wiped mine off with a rag sprayed with brake cleaner. Also the bit where the taper sits in the hub carrier. This stopped it slipping because the threads on the balljoint were covered in crud, the nut wouldn't tighten fully. So top tips - Clean and grease the threads on the nut and taper. Try not to get grease on the actual balljoint taper and where it sits on the hub carrier.

I used a strongbar wedged into the cutouts on the arm. Ask someone to put pressure on it whilst you tighten the nut.

That's correct, exactly how I did mine when I fitted braided hoses. The brakes are spot on.

I had one (actually still have but havn't had a chance to sort it), it was the small boxes on top of the stereo mounting. I think it's the antenna controller possibly. It's the type of plastic they are made of. Rubs together on itself and makes a damn racket.

Amazing supra and nice house

You might want to get the geo checked afterwards, if it's the one I'm thinking of, the front adjusters, they are supposed to be torqued to 226nm which is really tight. Needs to be up on a ramp with a large torque wrench.

http://www.lexls.com/tutorials/steering/psflush.html Don't let it run dry!

Should do, but I just removed it first though just to get it out the way and give me more room to get the splitter tool on.

No chip in my facelift, I have oem keys. No harm will be done by trying it.

To take the disc off i had to loose the ratchet mechanism for the brake shoes. Ther's a lttle rubber gromet on the disc, take that off and use a flat blade screwdriver to turn the cog at the bottom. i can't remember what way but try it either way and you'll feel the disc go looser. Just pulls off easy then. The balljoints- I managed with a Laser scissor type splitter for the two smaller ones but the larger one took a lot of pounding with a heavy hammer. I used an extension bar with a strong 19mm socket on the end to prevent damage to the balljoint. Loosen the nut a few turns and spray lots of penetrant spray. WD40 didn't do jack shit so got some other one from Halfords. The extension bar was mullered after I'd finished but it did the job. Shame you're not closer otherwise I could have given you a hand.

Check the topmount bushes, and the spring isolator at the top. Also I've got lots of little stones trapped behind the fuel tank guard, thay cause a bit of racket when going over bumps. I havn't had a chance yet but I'm going to strip it and powder coat it.

Got Falken 452's on mine at the moment (stock 17's) and can't fault them. They do wear quick with over enthusiastic driving but the grip is fantastic. Ive drove my brothers N/A with el cheapo tyres and there is a big difference. So, from my experience - Falken 452 or Goodyear Eagle F1 GSD3 - Both amazing in the wet & dry for the price.

I would say thats a pretty good guess as they seem to sell a lot of lighting. I wouldn't worry too much about it as long as all your electrics work. Must have been for a HID kit.

Ah, the one with the £300 postage! I was planning on going to see it for my brothers N/A conversion

Where did you find there details from Jason?

Looks perfect! exactly how I would want my Supra to look. If it was black. Great job

It needs plenty of heat, oxy-acetelyn is best as the shock of rapid temp change breaks the grip. might be best getting it up a ramp in a garage.