Iky

You sure Tyson? Looks like it's an auto one with a pipe joining the two fittings.

That's great to know. Thankyou.

We'll have to agree to disagree on that Kev, all the ones I've seen have shown signs of the finish degrading in roughly a year, including my own. If you look closely it'll have lost its sheen and become brittle and blister. Might look fine from a distance. Problem with alloy it that when it gets warm it 'gasses' out and starts blistering. That's why you need to preheat it before powder coating otherwise it comes out looking crap. Our engines run hot and constant heat cycling degrades it. I'd advise anyone that wants that super fresh painted look to last for a good few years, not to powdercoat cam covers and turbo pipes but find some other alternative coating that can handle high temps. It's fine for other odd brackets etc. I'm not too sure about NA cam covers as they're a magnesium alloy, I've not had any experience of powdercoating that. Just my opinion and advice of course.

Standard powdercoat wont last long. Especially on cam covers/turbo alloy pipes. Probably look good for a few months to a year before it softens/blisters/cracks/discolours. If you can find a company that does ceramic/high temp type powders, theres one in coventry that I know of. Powder Lab I think it's called. That'll last much longer.

From experience most clear or light colour paints in engine bay will yellow over time. Powder coat isn't great in teh bay either unless its away from the engine/turbos. You can get ceramic powder coats that'll cope better with heat but still not sure how long they'll last before the silvers go yellow. i don't think you'll find a decent clear that doesn't but best bet would be some of the VHT branded paints. I've used a silver one on my turbo heat shield and it still seems to be silver-ish.

Maybe we can do a trade I'll send you a message shortly.

Hi Noz, what clips are you after? I've got a few of the ones that go around the light that hold the lense on from some facelifts.

I'll take this.

Very nice restoration Jim. Doing something similar myself. Great result on teh engine, made good power for the spec.

As far as I'm aware with fibre glass, you have to grind it down to below the gel coat so fibres are showing. The P40 filler should bond to that. Ours bonded well, unfortunately car was involved in an accident after that and the undertray was demolished.

Sorry, this isn't gonna help your sale but you can buy these new from ebay for £30 delivered.

It's just fibreglass. We fixed my brothers just by sanding the top coat and using fiberglass filler and matting to reshape. If it needs strength, you may need to rivit a piece of metal across the two parts.

Have you got a photo of this? Not wanting to buy but just curious.

I'm guessing there's not much market for them as a lot of people tend to fit front mounted incoolers. So unless it's a custom intrcooler core jobby the tray needs removing/hacking up. I've seen a few hackjobs on Supra's to make room for the front mounts, one on a nearly stock UK TT6 which made me cringe. For me personally, the active front spoiler is one of the best options/features of the MKIV.

Would be great if someone started making the spoiler undertrays as they are difficult to get hold of, if you do manage they're usually cracked or broken. They are made out of Fberglass GRP type material anyway so shouldn't be too difficult for soemone experienced with fibre glass to make.

I'll offer you £20 posted for the right hand dispay. The one with oil level etc.

You could try opening up the ecu and just let it dry if it's full of moisture.

Hello, I have an N/A Manual ECU for sale. Part no is - 89661-14610 Ideal if you've manual converted your N/A auto and are waiting for the boost upgrades! Reason for sale is, I thought I could use the covers from it for my TT ECU but it's physically a different size so of no use to me. Capacitors all seem to be in good shape with no obvious signs of leaking or bulging. Unfortunately I don't have an N/A Supra to test on but was sold to me as a working ECU. I'm happy for you to come down and test in your own car before buying. Based in Leeds/Bradford area. I will upload photos later on. SOLD Regards, Iky.

For the amount they cost, I think best to replace all of them on both the engine and throttle control ECU's. The only issue you may come across is finding a competent electrical repair guy than can actually solder properley. The boards are double sided so the solder has to flow through the hole to the other side without screwing up the track/traces and pads. Nichicon, Rubycon and Panasonic capacitors are usually the better options that will actually last and need to be of the correct values. You can have higher voltage ratings but the capacitance has to be the same.

Dan, you`ve got my friend Manos`s Supra. If I remember right, he had the diff changed possibly.

Check against the workshop manual on the homepage.

Middle connector is for the auto part of the cluster I think.

Most I've ever managed on a long journey with a BPU Auto has been 320 miles. I've checked my odometer with a gps so I know it reads accurates miles and not km. There's lots of factors in play, like driving style, mechanical condition etc. Also I'm sure some peoples will be clocking in km and not miles.

Only things I can think of that may be linked to the ecu are the analogue odo, boost guage and ABS system that's different on the facelifts. I'll be looking more into it once I've got some ecus to compare.

Very true David. You're right mate.