Samurai 20V

I used the original rubber pipe to clear the airbox, cut the hard pipe from the cooler to this pipe, under the car.. Been running for many years without an issue. This post should help. Intercooler - mkiv Technical - The mkiv Supra Owners Club

The 4mm hose is sold by Toyota as a lengths which you can cut with a blade/knife/scissors. See the image attached. The preformed ones I ordered from Toyota as well and replaced one by one.

Good luck mate.. I'm heading for the same job soon, 6266 PHR kit going on soon..

Map Sensor/fuel pressure regulator hoses vaccum hose leaks can cause fuelling issues. I also had my map sensor melt on the underneath.. Check the vac hoses to the VSV's as well. My IACV VSV had a loose fitting hose, replacing that leaned my fuelling out from the 9.0s on WOT to 10s.. Vac hoses leaking are the cause of many issues, I replaced the whole lot. The link pipes on the turbos collapse on the inside, restricting boost, causing AFR's to get rich.. I had fixed all of these before tuning the car on the Link, made a huge difference even before tuning..

How is the condition of the throttle cable? If the insulation is perished, more than likely the cable is frayed.. This was the main cause of my idle issues. Of course, I had made sure the idle valve was working properly at first.

Check the throttle cable is not worn out, also a sticky dashpot(damper) can cause high idle. I experienced both of these issues.

I had this issue a few weeks ago. There are two coolant hoses on the throttle. One goes direct to the head, 2nd to a hardline under the intake. The 2nd is still available new, the 1st not. Can be changed in place, just the battery needs to come out. Bit difficult to reach it, you will lose some skin this way, correct way is to remove the throttle body. I didn't drain any coolant, capped the hard line when removing the hose, minimal coolant loss. Hope this helps.

Will do so…

Hi Chingy. I just did this exact test on a set of spare mirrors I had 2 weeks ago. The wiring diagram posted by Mike is the vehicle side. On the mirror itself you need the pink & orange wire. See pic of the mirror I had stripped down.. The test you will do the same way Mike described. FYI, on the mirrors I have, 1 has a good motor, I am getting all the components changed on the PCB, so should be working soon. The 1 with the bad motor, trying to match the motor & replace the components on the PCB.

I have a fast acting IAT sensor, will get it installed before deciding to change.. Thanks again.

Mike, as usual, your explanations are top notch. In my case, the ambient here in Durban, South Africa is worse of than the UK. As an example, today was a 33degC high, 22deg Low.. Humidity 89%. My IAT on highway cruise was between 40-50deg, it only drops by 5deg on a WOT pull. FMIC is a Greddy Spec LS. Even on a cold day IAT is similar to above, never returns to anywhere below 30 deg in any usage. The stock sensor location may be playing a role in this though. Reading the above, the big Con for me will be the easy to heatsoak on the Whiftbitz, looks like ETS is the way. Thanks again Mike, the details you provide are very valuable, much appreciated.

@Mike2JZ Above you mentioned the ETS & Whiftbitz 4" FMIC. The price difference between the two is huge, is the ETS worth the extra cash? Thanks.

I'm using the same oil with my big case TRD LSD diff. Cannot remember how much I filled though.

I just fitted a Radium rail with 1050X injectors, really class stuff. With the FPR on the rail, simplifies the hoses & no need to worry about mounting points.

I used them toyota parts deal a few times, no issues, the shipping was expensive to South Africa. Amayama is good, but recently shipping costs gone up. I used megazip a few times now, been happy with the service & shipping costs.