Rummy

Hi coneheads First a little back story, TC previously running fine except the RED "OFF" LED didn't light when selected so I thought I'd check it out. I was checking for a power feed to LED when I may have shorted something as the interior lights fuse blew. I replaced that and checked all other fuses which are fine and then noticed a problem with the Green Diag LED. Main question is What's the GREEN diagnostic light meant to do on turning the ignition? Previously, I noticed the light coming on and staying on during WS modes then flashing when turning the selector to OFF. However my problem now is the light takes about 10 seconds to come on then dims to off after about 5 seconds and won't illuminate in any other WS mode until I turn IGN off and on again where the same thing happens. Sometimes it doesn't come on at all. The car will now either not start or run like a bag of nails since. I have checked for Fault codes of which there are none and reset the ECU. No change Any ideas? Cheers

Presuming the gauge was working normally, you should be fine if it never went much past mid way.

Boiling does usually indicate a faulty stat and or rad. Personally, I would try a rad cap first, then if symptoms continue, replace the stat and rad.

Ah sorry mate. I'm completely wrong :/

If this is the part I think you're on about: 31236-14030 fork mount 31234-14020 spring plate

When I had an N/A I always ran a 1.1 with stock and aftermarket rads

I've always topped to just above the LOW when cold so the coolant has room to expand into when hot

Yeah that.

Sorted this. Turned out to be the oil pressure sensor. One of the pins had snapped, making intermittent contact and strangely causing both water and oil readings on the gauge to max out when not connected.

Check the heater water hose at the rear of the engine. They can sometimes split and spray coolant under load

It was quite windy so I couldn't capture the noise from the engine bay. Ill have another go tonight

Evening! Can anyone help diagnose this noise emitting from the L/H side (exhaust side). It only happens when warm and only at idle. It is more audible from the cab. I'm hoping it's a tensioner or some such... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=83tIoDLBoQc Ta!

Sounds like it wasn't bled fully. Do some more trips with the heating on. I'd definitely get rid of that old rad too.

Got this today. I'm struggling to pick up Radio 1 but I'll connect the booster up and hope that sorts it. If not, I'm not really fussed as I also mainly listen to the iPod. Looks good though. Many thanks!

Where the hell is the "Un-see" button...

Man up wet pants

Check the oil filter seal too. It may seep out under load. Failing that, Jet wash under the car and once dry you should hopefully see the area you're losing oil from and investigate further.

Anyone going to THIS, 18th August? Looks like there's some right beasts turning up...and I'm not talking about the cars /Ironic it's being held in the cattle market too...

I'm pretty sure a new stat will sort your problem mate.

I have two of these Dual gauges, one for fuel pressure/oil temp and the other for oil pressure/water temp. Now the problem is, lately the oil/water gauge just jumps to max temps and stays there for an indefinite period then occassionally flicks back to reading normal. I've checked the connectors on the gauge and the earth and power feed. Both gauges use the same earth and power but only the oil/water gauge goes full retard. Faulty gauge? As it cant possibly be both the sensors, can it?? Any ideas as it's driving me nuts!

I second the fleabay option. 130£ will get you a decent after market (no name) Ali rad. I had no problems with the one I had. Something like this http://bit.ly/10W4ANT

For the sake of 130-50 quid for an after market rad and stat I'd say its better than another engine or head refurb if the HG hasn't definitely failed.

Welcome. Good colour choice.

It's the rear fog switch mate. Enabled when the lights are on