Lude

No you right. The car was like it last year, i just put it in my garage for the winter. I wouldnt say i spent a year on it lol il give it to someone to sort

Yes, but even when removing that still does it. Also removed the aftermarket boost controller to eliminate that too. Can someone verify the boost leak test process please?

not the turbo no. i thaught may have been, so i sent it off and had it refurbished (£500 waste of money lol) the car drives perfect and boosts, the noise has to be this surely, the sound is a whistle, which is air coming from somewhere, im not concerned about the boost gauge, its the sound that getting on my nerves..

hmm been thinking that. did spend ages last year trying to solve it, just couldnt seem to get to the bottom of it. il try 1 or 2 things the next few weeks if not i think il give it to someone to sort...

i still havent sorted the boost leak i have on my car, has been in garage over the winter. the car has new gaskets now, on the parts i took off (intake manifold, throttle body, IAC ) im going to get the car out soon and resolve this once and for all lol, just want verification on doing the boost leak test. is it: remove the air filter, put a empty tin can where it used to be with a valve for the compressor to attach to, (air tight) leave the compressor ON, at around 15PSI, then spray with soapy water over the engine bay. will that actually build up pressure though? or will the just escape out the exhaust? what about the throttle, does that need to be manually left open? i tried to do this last year, but couldnt seem to find any noise or leaks, the boost gauge read to around 7PSI and that was it? for those who dont know or forgot, the car sounds like this, but boosts fine...

Bmw 316, 2001. The vacuum pum had a oil leak, so i removed it, opened it amd replaced the gasket, then replaced. Now the pedal is hard, wasnt like it before. I re attacched the large vacuum pipe to the pump. Whats happend and how can i sort?

un plug it and plug it back in. or just unplug it

Wet plugs are ususlly car over fueling, not sure if a bad plug would remain wet or not.

Think its supposed to be on there, I had a blitz nur before on a 200sx, snd hsd a bee*r rev limiter, which makes the car backfire. It did similar to your exhaust, parts started coming out from the exhsust itself, debris, stringy metal. I sold a hks super drager off a 300zx, that was similar,they seem to rot from the inside out and they arent stainless steel. Time for a nice new one :-)

i am TT, so just check the condition of the copil packs then yea to see if any residue on there, i havent checked the plugs yet as been working flat out, will check the coils same time as i check the plugs...

power steering is easy mate, do you just need to top up? bleed? or are you doing a full flush (for some reson?) bleeding is quite easy, lid off, top up, steer full left, then full right. keep doing with engine running and it will quiet down. you are suppost to have the front of the car up in the air to put less strain on the pump etc but ive done it with the wheels on the floor

here is where it is mate. looking from straight on at the engine, as you lift the bonnet. its to the bottom left corner of the engine.....

Will check em on the weekend when get my tools :-)

Ye its still doing it. I find if i just keep the key turned the starter will turn and turn and turn then eventually it will hunt then catch Would that sugguest its not getting fuel, then finally when it hunts its nerly getting fuel then funally catches? Il get a new crank sensor and see then

http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?276526-car-difficult-to-start-after-short-trips-or-when-warm on page three there is a vid. Not sure if mines 100% but seems better. Will post up where it is later mate

I put a new water temp sensor in. It seems a lot better now. May take a little pedal to get it going but thats ok. Will post if problem persists...

I dont think iv ever had a turbo car that idles perfect. Plugs may sort the idle. The whone from the fuel pump doesnt sound good so sounds lile needs replacing anyway. Vacuum leaks can effect idle a lot, i would check few of your vacuum pipes are all ok

Il take a pic for you tonight mate :-) It is tucked.awau slightly but very easy to get to and replace Seems to have sorted my starting issue too :-)

Ah found it. Iv put the new sensor in the correct place now fit straigjt in :-) Wish i knew yesterday before i emptied the coolent from it lol. The sensor in the rad, does that effect the car at all or does it just trigger the mini fan to come on when temps are high..

I thaught was in the rad, til i wen to change mine yesterday and it didnt fit. Not sure where it is on the na, TT is by the water pump though iv jist changed mine now.

Isit yea. I purchased the warer temp one this week, will fit it today. Will get the crank one too if problem.still persists. Car was ol yesterday. Will report back didnt have time yesterday to check the spark plugs

Read it on here there were 2 sensors, one for the ecu and one for the temp gauge in the dash??? Wheres the water temp sensor for the ecu then? I may have the correct one from toyota then. So i take it there are three sensors all together? Ecu, dash gauge, and the emergency electric one

ordered a new water temperature sensor from toyota, the ECU one that goes in the bottom of the radiator. disapointed after paying £50 for it, for a genuine one, its the wrong one. i ordered the part number after reading it on here. are they different for NA to TT? its the larger one i need, has 2 prongs in. part number i had was 89422-35010 hope toyota will return exchange it for me as it says no refunds on the receipt

Not sure if the na is same as TT, TT is in the rad for the ecu

no mate it doesnt plug there, it goes into the radiator easy to do, need to get at it from underneath, its at the bottom of the rad by the drain plug. simple open end spanner on it will do i too have just ordered one from toyota, £45+ vat. im not sure if the NA and TT are the same.