Lude

No you right. The car was like it last year, i just put it in my garage for the winter. I wouldnt say i spent a year on it lol il give it to someone to sort

Yes, but even when removing that still does it. Also removed the aftermarket boost controller to eliminate that too. Can someone verify the boost leak test process please?

not the turbo no. i thaught may have been, so i sent it off and had it refurbished (£500 waste of money lol) the car drives perfect and boosts, the noise has to be this surely, the sound is a whistle, which is air coming from somewhere, im not concerned about the boost gauge, its the sound that getting on my nerves..

hmm been thinking that. did spend ages last year trying to solve it, just couldnt seem to get to the bottom of it. il try 1 or 2 things the next few weeks if not i think il give it to someone to sort...

i still havent sorted the boost leak i have on my car, has been in garage over the winter. the car has new gaskets now, on the parts i took off (intake manifold, throttle body, IAC ) im going to get the car out soon and resolve this once and for all lol, just want verification on doing the boost leak test. is it: remove the air filter, put a empty tin can where it used to be with a valve for the compressor to attach to, (air tight) leave the compressor ON, at around 15PSI, then spray with soapy water over the engine bay. will that actually build up pressure though? or will the just escape out the exhaust? what about the throttle, does that need to be manually left open? i tried to do this last year, but couldnt seem to find any noise or leaks, the boost gauge read to around 7PSI and that was it? for those who dont know or forgot, the car sounds like this, but boosts fine...

Bmw 316, 2001. The vacuum pum had a oil leak, so i removed it, opened it amd replaced the gasket, then replaced. Now the pedal is hard, wasnt like it before. I re attacched the large vacuum pipe to the pump. Whats happend and how can i sort?

un plug it and plug it back in. or just unplug it

Wet plugs are ususlly car over fueling, not sure if a bad plug would remain wet or not.

Think its supposed to be on there, I had a blitz nur before on a 200sx, snd hsd a bee*r rev limiter, which makes the car backfire. It did similar to your exhaust, parts started coming out from the exhsust itself, debris, stringy metal. I sold a hks super drager off a 300zx, that was similar,they seem to rot from the inside out and they arent stainless steel. Time for a nice new one :-)

i am TT, so just check the condition of the copil packs then yea to see if any residue on there, i havent checked the plugs yet as been working flat out, will check the coils same time as i check the plugs...

power steering is easy mate, do you just need to top up? bleed? or are you doing a full flush (for some reson?) bleeding is quite easy, lid off, top up, steer full left, then full right. keep doing with engine running and it will quiet down. you are suppost to have the front of the car up in the air to put less strain on the pump etc but ive done it with the wheels on the floor

here is where it is mate. looking from straight on at the engine, as you lift the bonnet. its to the bottom left corner of the engine.....

Will check em on the weekend when get my tools :-)

Ye its still doing it. I find if i just keep the key turned the starter will turn and turn and turn then eventually it will hunt then catch Would that sugguest its not getting fuel, then finally when it hunts its nerly getting fuel then funally catches? Il get a new crank sensor and see then

http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?276526-car-difficult-to-start-after-short-trips-or-when-warm on page three there is a vid. Not sure if mines 100% but seems better. Will post up where it is later mate