gurnam

Just spent all day trying to install my turbo timer into my car and have finally given up. I took the gearstick panel off, the chrome surround around the dials off, the stereo surround panel off, the dials off, the panel underneath the steering wheel off, the top panel off & the dash panel on the far right off trying to locate the bloody OEM factory connector that my TT harness I bought off Fensport (Blitz dealers) is supposed to connect between in order for the timer to work but it's no where to be found at all! I've done loads of searching and there's no Supra specific install guide anywhere either so I've no idea where exactly this TT harness is supposed to connect. Does anyone whose already installed this successfully have an idea of where this is supposed to connect to at all?? Pic of the harness sold to me: As you can see I miserably failed to locate the connector where the is supposed to connect to. Before anyone mentions, I've already thoroughly checked the area close to the ignition barrel but didn't have any luck. Tried removing the steering cowling by undoing a few screws underneath but it still wouldn't come apart from the front. I cracked the front part of the cowling in the end accidentally by using a little too much force. Do I have the wrong harness or something??

Thanks for clearing that up mate.

Sorry this is exactly what I meant. I have a MAP sensor on mine. Does this mean the car will still run rich and cause cool pops & bangs inside the tailpipe on gear shifts like an AFM'd car?

Thanks I'll do that but yes if it doesn't work properly with my alarm system, then I'll just sell it on once I've shown it to an approved alarm specialist.

Thanks I'll have a look when I fit it. Just hope it works ok with my alarm system. Can you confirm my suspicion about the handbrake wire? In the Blitz FATT manual it says the purple wire can be grounded optionally if I don't want to connect it to the handbrake wire.

This is exactly what I needed to know thanks mate. Am I correct in saying there's a ground point behind the clocks or more towards the right than that? Also in the instructions, it says the purple wire needs to be wire tapped into the handbrake wire which is supposed to be a 12V feed that probably connects to the dash warning light for when the handbrake is on or off.

Exactly. They're not pointless imo either. Please someone help me if you can.

Anyone??

Prefer a second hand one tbh. Anyone?

As above. Let me know what you have!

Done it today but only cost me a tenner

Hi guys, You must be getting sick of me by now lol. I've got a Blitz FATT DCIII turbo timer for my car and have just bought the optional harness to connect it all up to my stock wiring. Now I understand very well how it all connects up, but just need to know if there is a common ground located in that area of the dash as I've got 2 black wires coming from the TT harness with metal connectors that I assume would need to be held on with a screw or something. Also is the handbrake cable just one wire or is it 2 as I need to find the 12V live to splice the little purple wire onto so my car turns off if my handbrake is dis-engaged. Please help me.

Did you ever manage to fix it at all hadyn? I'm thinking of taking the plastic cover off and undoing the 2 screws holding the wholer thing in and having a look behind for any loose wires etc but apart from that, I've no idea how to get around this. Electrics on these cars are pretty bad and very temperamental!

Well I'm not after running ridiculous power on my Supra and I love the sequential power delivery as Toyota have intended it to be. This is why I'm ruling single tubbys out. Now I know just fitting hybrids on their own won't get me much gain which is why I'd get a remap at a later date with bigger injectors to run more boost than the ceramics can handle. This has surely got to give me a little more power than the stock ceramics. I also understand about the housings cracking but I guess this is the gamble I have to take as there's not really any other choice I have apart from replace with a used pair of JDM ceramics. I've worked out that for a single turbo conversion, it would set me back close to £4k but a standard/hybrid setup would be between £1k to £2k depending how far I go in terms of mapping etc.

Managed to fix the stereo issue by returning the car to the fitting place for them to resolve. One of my interior roof lights is still not working which is the one toward the passenger side. The drivers side one works fine. Can someone please tell me what could be wrong? I've already tried replacing the bulb but no luck.

I'll get bigger injectors and have it mapped but at a later date. I'll see how the standard cams perform but I don't mind changing for better ones if required at a later date. I just can't afford a single conversion but will look into the bigger hybrids.

I didn't say 500bhp exactly but as close to it as I can get from hybrids will do for me. If it means 450bhp then so be it. The car will probably be mapped once the hybrids are on. If the mapper says he can go further with bigger injectors then I'll fit them. Also the single turbo kits on Whifbitz site are around £3k upwards and that's without factoring in supporting mods such as bigger injectors, mapping, etc.

Tried him already but no reply when I called him. Will try again later.

I don't want a single turbo sorry as that means changing other things like injectors, getting the car mapped etc due to totally different power delivery depending on spec of turbo used. All sounds too expensive. Will mean I lose the nice low end pull too. With my way, I still get the low end drivability (as it'll never ever see a track) and more power without the risk of blowing up my turbos if I increase the boost a little more and can use the standard ECU map if I stay around the 1.1bar mark until I have more funds for a proper ECU and a mapping session.

Hi guys, After speaking to Turbo Dynamics, I've realised that replacing the stock ceramic turbos for UK ones is not as straight forward as I thought as the manifold and stud pattern is slightly different. So I asked them for a quote to fully rebuild my current CT20A's and replace the ceramic part for steel. They quoted me £1000 with me having to send my current tubbys off to them which I think is a good price. Has anyone done this before? I'm looking for close to 500bhp.

I'll try to come along to this. Will be my first meet. 1. Rob Wild 2. Ian Ian 3. Sted & *Lynz* 4. Mr Ward 5. Martin? 6. Martini 7. Matt H 8. RussVVTi6Speed 9. tooley 10. gurnam 11 12.

Right I fixed the issue earlier today and the problem was the actual fuse was missing!! Replaced it with one of the spares and hey ho we have light in the cabin. Now since doing this, the treble has totally gone from the stereo and I can only hear the bass through the speakers. Also one of the interior light bulbs didn't work even nafter replacing it.

Thanks guys. I've just checked again properly and the ignition barrel light ring & the open door light are both ok so it might just be blown bulbs. Will get them both replaced and see what happens.

After some searching, I've realised that it could be fuse no 23 located in the engine bay. Will check this out soon but will disconnect the ground terminal on the battery.

Hi guys, Recently bought a JDM Supra 6spd TT and have realised that the interior light that comes on when opening the door has stopped working. It's the light located in the middle above me on the roof bit (sorry for the poor description). Anyway after some searching on here, I've realised that the triangular warning light also doesn't come on when the door is opened. Could someone let me know what's happened? To me it sounds like I've blown a fuse but I don't have a fuse diagram to check it so will currently begin the search for it now while I wait for a reply. Thanks in advance