trebor69

Do you have any wrap or a new blanket on? these will smoke to begin with.

It sorted itself out .....I did change both the coolant sensors (the one for the dash and the one for the ECU) I had also been running it with the timing out (not purposely) and the engine had been stood for 4 years prior to me fitting it but after changing the oil and driving some decent distances it was fine. I do think the ECU coolant sensor had something to do with it.

Kits available from SSautochrome.

You don't have the XS power oil feed line do you (the braided one) ? I've just snapped mine

Yes the n/a box fits the 1jz.

AFAIK you just need the engine loom and ecu too.....as long as its not from an Aristo. You would then want to consider brakes and suspension oh and there is a rev counter mod too. Downpipe will differ from an N/A, you need igniter, I/C and power steering res. Aristo GTE differs a lot, do a search as it's been asked before (recently too).

Haha, that's neither the front or back lawn you can see:p Yes I agree about the colour.

Got you there mate, I'm certainly not thrashing it about, well.... until I get the tranny and engine coolers on that is

HaHa, yes I bet, I already had the configuration of lead to cap number written down so it was ok. That's another thing I enjoy about modding the Supra.....its all been done before and the info is already out there, its just finding it.

Will let you know exactly when I've driven it a little more, still tinkering at the moment but its great fun. I think the 1jz is an amazing engine and would have one back tomorrow but this is also very enjoyable, not noticed any lag or anything, it does however sound very "nasty" and "shouty" compared to the 1jz .....guess its down to the exhaust system......certainly not what it say's on the can......Silent Hi Power....my arse

What I was NOT going to do was cut a hole in the inner wing, I had a piece of TT I/C pipe that goes through the wing and I just pieced up to that, luckily I have a place down the road that rolls the pipes so I gradually cut them to length and configuration and they rolled them for me. I also had a universal I/C kit from Ebay, comes with 8 silicone joiners, 8 pipes (various bends) and 16 clamps. Pretty straightforward job once I'd got it connected to the turbo.

Cheers Matt.

Bump.

Bump.

Should be working now.

I had wired the Emanage into the loom that was fitted to the new engine but after taking my engine out of the car I realized that the loom on the new engine was for a manual....not knowing if this would work or not in my auto I swapped the engine looms (de-wiring the piggy back and then re-wiring it) over with a few other little difference's off the block so I fitted the engine into the car and had an issue with the oil return fitting fouling on the power steering lines but seeing as I'd cut the oil return pipe exactly to size (trying to be a smart arse and keep everything neat and tidy) there was NO room for any movement, I only needed to turn the 45 fitting slightly but couldn't so I spent a few day's on that trying to source pipes and joins etc. Then it was the turn of the intercooler pipes.....what an absolute PITA, XS power kits from SSautochrome come with different manifolds (I have seen 3 that they supply) and its anyone's guess as to which you will end up with, I know that one of these variants gives more room for fitting the I/C pipes from the turbo and between the inner wing, mine however gave the least amount of room which meant re-jigging the turbo and oil return etc....by this time I'd had enough but HAD to keep going. Eventually it all came together and fired up easily enough but ran very very lumpy, a trip to Lyndon's more or less cured this but I did still have a misfire on tickover so on Monday evening after work I replaced the "Y" plenum with tps and iacv, fuel rail and injectors, rotor arm and leads and although it has helped, it has not cured it completely:( I have just ordered some new plugs and while swapping them out I'll do a compression check but I'm leaning towards my gaps being too small and although they are fine on boost, I think one or more may be causing a weak spark at idle hence the missing. I gapped them to what I'm sure was 20thou but a couple may be a little less than that, I have also read that 25-28thou is fine for up to 15psi and as I'm only running about 7psi I should be able to enlarge them slightly. Yes its nice to be in a turbo again PICS ARE BACK TO FRONT......no I don't know why:(

I found the 1jz swap easier than my current n/a-t conversion.

This is one of the XS power manifolds they use and local too http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/291316706682?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

I think you'll find that the red one is oil pressure and yes the yellow one is oil level. Don't know why it would be coming on, maybe its a faulty sender/sensor.....check the block connector/wiring.

Yes mate, just a slight timing issue and a map and we're done

Done.

Coil?

Elephant snot ?

Yes mate, stop worrying , A/C unit was stripped and the bracket reused.

I know you are going to be collecting parts but if you decide to get rid of that boot polystyrene let me know.....its the only part I'm missing.