trebor69

I lay under the car holding a socket and extension bar against the ground and my girlfriend flicked the ignition, do not turn over and over etc just a click is enough.

I agree, I certainly have more fun on my 650 than I did on my 1100

Brakes, cage, five point harness......

Done mine myself a couple of times, tucked a couple of magazines around top of tailgate/back of roof, think wiring connects under plastic trim on tailgate then that feeds out of the top of tailgate, undo struts from t/gate and prop up with golf brolly or similar then unbolt from hinges, t/gate then rests on magazines, remove brolly and lower t/gate, slide away from roof and rest it again while you remove wiring at top then lift off. Harder to explain than it is to do.

I presume there must be a seal in there? easy to obtain and replace?

My timing was out giving a little rattle between 2.5 and 3k but its gone now I've timed it up correctly.

That should be plenty.

You will only get around two litres out of the drain plug, then you can replace that two litres with fresh stuff but this must go down the dipstick tube, then whatever you lose in the bottom of rad (cooler) you can replenish by dipping it whilst warm and topping up the same way (dipstick tube) I found it best to wrap plenty of clingfilm around pipe ends when removed.

Very good to know and fantastic engines, I believe they are made by Yamaha like the 3sge in the Celica..... Also non interference :-)

I guess the 1jz I have is non interference too.... Thankfully :-)

Finally found the fault, timing was out by two teeth on cam gears, I think I've read every thread I could find related to the problems I was having and something I read about somebody's belt having slipped and the timing was out stuck in my head, well as I am waiting for a couple of bits to arrive over the next few day's it gave me the chance to sit and think for a while about what I'd tried and what I hadn't, knowing it would only take 15 mins to check I nipped out and hey presto !!!!! I bought the engine "as is" knowing that it had been sat in a garage for four years and remember the guy mentioning something about the timing belt being changed before it was left to sit ......obviously put on wrong All fixed now and I'm very happy with it, huge thanks to Ian (thomo8568) for giving up his sat afternoon to help me eliminate many possible causes and thanks for everybody's input on here :d:d

It was the timing......all fixed now and very happy, thanks all

Yes I've been through that and just want clarification before I slip the belt off and turn them back...... thanks mate

Bottom one is defo on the "0" mark and the top ones are here

Help please, Having issues with my engine missing and stuff, just decided to check the timing and need confirmation that I'm checking it correctly and that it IS two teeth out.... Lined up bottom pulley mark on "0" on bottom cover also have screwdriver in first cylinder to make sure its TDC cam gear marks should be at twelve 0 clock and not two teeth to the right (3 minutes past'ish) Is my timing set wrong? Thanks

Bkr5eix -11

Will you post up the possible answers as to where this noise may be coming from please mate? Thanks

Huge thanks to Ian for his help today in ruling out the above items, I now have dash temp sensor and ecu water temp sensor on order and really hope that this cures it..... Please, any other ideas of possible faults are welcomed, Thanks.

Is it possible my spark could be failing between 3&4k revs causing my issues? Is this a fault that has been experienced by anyone?

Yeah, did this and it worked for a few seconds then stopped, now it jumps every now and again.....does the wire thickness make a difference?

I have had info on wiring from a couple of people and some wires are connected completely differently from car to car yet run perfectly.... This is confusing to me, I'm no wiring guru but apart from no temp reading, no rev counter, speedo back reading in km and the obvious lack of power kicking in when I boot it...... It runs quite well

Yes I've already read all that mate,thanks for your suggestions dude.

Surely wire 14 on the 14 pin grey soarer plug is a better match for pin 4 on the grey supra plug, both being engine ecu: fpc and fuel pump ecu: fpc frc?

I kinda figured that the kick in the arse that I ain't got is boost O:)