trebor69

Hey Adam, Only regular cold starts are every morning for work, mpg is probably in between those two but still slightly better than when it was N/A, had a bloody good look today for anything obvious like hoses and vac lines but looks ok, did disconnect the map to see what it would do and it just started missing but fine again now reconnected (running wise).....don't want to drop the oil and put fresh in if it's going to ruin that too but I know it needs it :-(

It ticks over fine and runs fine too, no miss firing whatsoever. Have replaced both the dash temp and the ECU temp sensors for new and when the ECU coolant sensor is unplugged the engine management light stays on which tells me that the circuit is good? The fuel return pipe had to be lengthened when I fitted the engine as it was slightly short but I used an 8" piece of air con metal tubing as a sleeve as it fitted perfectly and is certainly not interfering with the flow. How exactly do I check the fuel rail pressure and duty cycle and what "figures" do I compare them to?

Not looked for any, does the paperclip thingy work the same on the 1j as the 2j? never done that before so will have a look for the "how to". P.S. I now don't have any money to spend on a pro ......

More stuff to check .......I wish I hadn't just bought shocks, springs and exhaust, not sure where to start now. I have just replaced the ECU temp sensor and reset the ECU and (I know its not a proper test but) all the injectors sound as though they're functioning correctly. I need cheap ways of diagnosing the possible problems, I wonder if I should start by replacing the FPR with a new adjustable aftermarket one .....

Yes mate, all stock.

What sort of pressure should a fuel pressure regulator be seeing and can an aftermarket one be set to that pressure? I'm not sure how these work exactly (pressure wise). And while I'm here asking silly questions ....what on earth does WOT mean?

Thanks for your reply Chris but a lot of what you've written I don't understand I know that the FPR is stock but checking the correct function of the other parts is, at this time, beyond me.

I recently fitted a 1jz engine in the supra and thought everything was fine but have recently noticed the strong smell of petrol, I have no leaks but when starting from cold you can actually see petrol (like mist) from the exhaust and it smells very strong, I have the second N/A cat in place (not for long though) exhaust wise and I have also noticed the bumper above the exhaust is getting "sooty". I have searched on here and tomorrow I will be fitting a new ECU temp sensor and then resetting the ECU but something I read made me check my oil and it also smells strongly of petrol, any ideas on what could be causing this?

I still have no garage so......

Welcome to the club and good luck with your search.

Distributor timing ?

Hi brady- I have a 1jz in my Supra and I'm quite impressed (over the N/A that I removed) bare in mind that you can always up the power to suit your needs by going single etc. I am using the N/A exhaust from the second cat backwards and it's fine. Apparently the soarer tt auto box is the same as the supra N/A auto box however the supra box has a superior valve body. Have a look at the section on here that David P has written all about gearboxes. I'm very happy to be auto, its an excellent box. Welcome to the club.

I did a regular 100 mile trip twice per month when I had the 3.0 motor in and it cost me £60 (200 miles=£60). Cleaned my 02 sensors in lemon juice and it made no noticeable difference.

Maybe overnight corrosion on the discs from all the water .....also sounds like your calipers may be starting to tighten up/stick...

Noticed the snail on the wife's Supra but didn't notice that the one parked next to it had been stripped

I took one off the N/A engine today that is balanced on ramps and it took about half hour, will be easier doing the one thats on the car, doing this tomorrow. Both bottom sumps for the N/A and the GTE are the same part number so are the same sump.

Cool

Personally I would drain the system, remove top and bottom hose and thoroughly clean pipe ends, remove thermostat then connect a hosepipe to top hose and run fresh water around the system for a while, undo heater matrix pipes at the bulkhead and run the hose through there too then blast the water out using an airline and compressor, reconnect pipes and fit a new thermostat then with front end up on ramps (shouldn't really be necessary but....) refil system and run engine (on tickover) with heater on max and full topping up as required you will need around 9 litres of coolant for this you should be able to fill the system completely and bring up to temperature with the rad cap off. I can tell when mine is full as the warm coolant heats the top pipe as it returns to the rad. One more thing to check is the passenger side footwell for water/coolant as this is a known place for heater matrix leaks.

Cool, Thanks pal.

If the engine is warm and the system is pressurized then the hoses should also have pressure behind them and although they will squash slightly they should not squeeze shut, having air in there however will let you squeeze it closed.....I would (from cold) take the top hose clip off from the rad end then pull the pipe off and make sure its full/fill it from there.....even if only to check the top pipe is full.

The 1jz I now have in my car has quite a dent in the bottom of the sump (its worse than flat, like domed) yet the one on the 2jz I took out is unmarked, however the 2jz is now sat on the ground and I don't have a hoist to weigh up the sumps to see if they are the same, does anybody know for sure if they are interchangeable....just the very bottom pan? Thanks.

Sounds like its low on coolant in the very top of the system/hose..... Is your rad completely full and the expansion bottle up to level?

Shameful

I lay under the car holding a socket on the bolt and an extension bar against the ground and my girlfriend flicked the ignition, do not turn over and over etc just a click is enough.